MnTom

Did the shop get the module back in correctly? If they didn't then the arm could be hitting the side of the tank. Did they drop the tank or lift the box?

My nephew is retiring from the Air Force. He had three tours in the sand box, was stationed in England, Okinawa, and I believe South Korea. One of the jobs he had when he was at Andrews was to refuel AF1.

Sounds like you are just going to have to sit down with it and take your time with the soft wheel. Kind of a PITA, but that's about your only option.

You can tow in O/D all you want. In fact the transmission will like you for it because it will be in lock up and the temps run coolest that way. If you get to where it wants to hunt or your pyrometer is getting to high then you should down shift. I pull a 28' fiver in O/D all the time and can pull a 6% grade with no problem. If i am below about 55 mph I lock out O/D because when my transmission shifts into O/D it shifts so fast that the turbo barks real bad so I run the speed up, let off the throttle and push the button at the same time then just ease back into it and ride.

I didn't mean turn the axle over, I meant the whole trailer like you said you could do. My though is to make the area where the problem is more easily accessible and possibly easier to repair.

If you had a Norther Tool store around you could buy another axle reasonably. I would turn the trailer over and see how bad the underside is and make a decision from there. Even if you get the raised edge taken care of is the spindle actually round to support the new bearing properly?

I used to swell up a lot when I was younger, but the last couple of times I got stung all I got was a small spot that swelled and just itched. Maybe I am 'out growing' the anaphylaxis? On the other hand my deceased Brother in Law was so sensitive that even with an Eppy Pen he had at best about 20 minutes to get into an ER.

Just hang in there, Russ. You don't need to push too hard to get this trailer done. You went this long without it so a couple more days won't hurt. Just keep at it and you will have a nice trailer when you are done!

My truck is old enough to vote and has not had anything done to the wiring to fix anything. The wiring is all stock for the engine and transmission plus charging. I have tied into the trailer wiring......

Unless the torque converter was slipping you did nothing to hurt your transmission. Personally I would not go back to that transmission guy. The first thing to try is cleaning the battery terminals, then look for grounds.

Dave, check at the alternator. Try that AFTER you try cleaning the battery terminals.

No, but the driver does.

About the only thing I can come up with to help you is use a fine flat file, then emery cloth and like you said "shoe shine it". Sounds like it is going to be a slow process.

From what I know it covers from 1996 (first year with the RE) to 2002.

More THROTTLE!!

Dang, when it rains it pours for you, Russ! Hang in there, it has got to get better. Be glad you aren't trying to do that stuff here. The temperature is 35* with rain and a 30+mph wind all day. Might get into the mid to upper 40s tomorrow.

I fought mine for a long time. Make sure that the rear brakes are adjusted up like they should be. Another trick is to use the plugs for bench bleeding the master cylinder and pull one brake line at a time off the master cylinder and put a plug in it. Try your brake pedal to see what it feels like. On mine if I blocked off the front the pedal was high and solid, but if I just blocked off the rear the pedal was low and mushy. Like you I went through gallons (no exaggeration) of fluid trying to bleed them. I was bleeding the fronts for the 4000th (felt like it) time and for some reason I had a screwdriver in my hand and tapped on the rubber hose while bleeding the left side. I saw two bubbles slightly larger than BBs come out and now my brake pedal is high and firm again. Try some 'un-orthodox' fixes. Sometimes it will amaze you!

The left side of the cushion and cover are worn and beat down.........

From what I have learned there is a chance of some engine damage with high return rates at starting due to the fact it could be dribbling fuel when cranking and through out the running of the engine. Without pulling and testing the injector(s) it would be real difficult (IMHO) to pin point the exact cause. It could be any of these causes: Worn injector ball seat 1. Leaking cross feed tubes (Cummins) 2. Blown internal high-pressure seal 3. Incorrect nozzle needle clearance 4. Cracked nozzle body 5. Cracked injector body

Entirely possible. What happens to make it start hard is there is too much return fuel and the rail pressure is low. You may have an injector that is beginning to slobber too.

Quite possible you are going to be needing injectors. Once one or more begin to fail they give the same symptoms you have. Try plugging it in for a couple of hours and see how it starts. If it starts good then you are looking at injectors. Do yourself a huge favor IF you need injectors by replacing all of them instead of trying to find out which one is the bad one. If one is failing the others are not far behind.

Dang, Mulcher, I would be real interested in the seat bottom, but I suspect shipping would be fairly high. The bottom of mine is wore out.

Either one of two things come to mind. One is drain and flush the system or the other is to up the pressure from the pump. TURNING UP THE PRESSURE

Does your Edge have timing settings? Timing is what would give you a rattle. If your valves were hitting your pistons you would not be able to start your truck let alone run it.

Usually until the "Wait To Start" light goes out.