Wild and Free

I agree that a lot of loads are not set up right or axle position is wrong for the load on top if the trailer has an adjustable position axle. BUT... you are misrepresenting my "Terms" lol.......... I am talking the Average Joe's boats and pontoons, things under 30 feet long and 8 feet wide or narrower...........Not Yachts and cruisers , Also I am talking about just "pulling" again a misrepresentation of meaning, I was not talking about manuvering. I worked for a contractor for a while pulling 48'+ triple axle belly dump gravel trailers regraveling country back roads and county roads and extrremely tight farm yards and trails so I know a thing or two about tight manuvering.

I kept getting blinded by the refraction of light off the safety issue I see running through the screen in front of the camera.:tongue:Need to get a hold of the Idaho state patrol and tell them to do safety inspections in the New Meadows area and give out mandatory safety repair tickets I guess.

I have had the opposite experience, get into way tighter spots and can pull tighter corners with goosenck versus bumper trailers. Axle position is a very important aspect or more so when trailer shopping if sharp corners are the norm versus bumper or gooseneck. I am noticing that more and more RV's are running the axles closer to the front than they used to.

Are you talking about adding a spring to the existing spring pack or adding an after market overload spring kit on top of the factory spring set? Either way it would make for a stiffer ride and lessen the ride quality and make the rear sit up higher if adding a leaf to the spring pack or if the add on overload was pulled down tight.Air bags are far better overall, I have worked at a driveline shop and built, rebuilt arched and rearched and custom built spring packs from old cars to big OTR rigs. On pickups best to stick with factory springs with airbags.

LOL................... I pull a trailer about the same size with bigger loads of woods than that behind my Honda 300 4 wheeler. When the load gets too big my wife has to sit on the front rack for more traction. Pulling it is easy, stopping it is a bit more tricky though when it gets that heavy. Wife and I would get lots of fire wood years ago, I had two bumper pull pickup box trailers tagged together so 3 full sized pickup boxes heaped with unsplit wood then my second pickup with a bumper pull 16 foot by 5.5 foot wide stock trailer filled to the roof and the bed heaped in a single afternoon from the cotton wooded river bottoms of the Missouri river. when we would get those loads we would already have it pre cut into splitting lengths prior to picking it up. I now have two gooseneck trailers, a 30 foot triple axle flatbed and a 20 foot by 6'8" wide stock trailer for the big loads. Pulling my travel trailer or bumper stock trailer sucks after pulling the goosenecks, loaded up they weigh in at around 7-8K lbs and pull worse and harder than having 3 times the weight on the goosenecks. Boat trailers are a lot easier to tow as they tend to be a lot longer and the weight tends to be further back on the trailer versus the heavy tongue weight of stock and travel trailers.

You have got to be carefull when you convert a 5er camper to a gooseneck as you have to take into acount the unlimited side to side flex you do not get with a 5er plate if driving on uneven roads you can make box to camper contact very easily.Like posted above there are few camper MFG that would recommend the gooseneck conversion do to the extra forces it puts on the front structure of the RV.I would never pull a bumper trailer over a gooseneck or 5er, much more stable and easier on the pickup rides nicer and can pull a lot more a lot easier.I like the B&W gooseneck hitches, the ball flips over and ther is nothing in the bed to get in the way flush and flat with bed floor when stowed away, I also had a layover ball in my 02 that was nice too but wasn't rated for as much weight as the B&W in my 05. Plus the B&W Companion 5th wheel plate just clips over the gooseneck ball for easy install and removal.

Auto tranny rigs are all D70, and manual tranny rigs are D80.

Might check into the one piece driveline you listed in the last post, here it is. http://www.moparpartsdiscounted.com/oemparts/dodge-120/52123161AA%20.html

Sorry Didn't mean to offend. I just hate seeing folks waste money myself.I reread your original post and misread thinking you had a lockup shudder and now see it was a launch shudder.Keep us up on how the driveline fix works. These 3rd gens like to eat rear u-joints, at 106K on my 05 I have replaced the rear one 2 times already and mine is a 1 piece shaft. My friends who have 3rd gens have the same issue, 50k is about all we see out of the rear joints.I have never seen this cause a low speed launch shudder though.I am not a "Mopar" tech, I am diesel tech who has worked on just about everything with wheels and a diesel except for trains, planes and ships over my 20 year career in the diesel tech field. Half my career has been working on big coal mine equipment the other half was at dealerships and service centers for construction, ag, OTR trucks, diesel pickups and anything one could mount a diesel engine in, aggragate equipment stationary and support equipment even a couple boats with diesels.I gained a lot of experience and a bad back that motivated me into management as a shop foreman at the mine I am at now.

The guy has a death wish mounting his seat in front of 2 potential bombs like that without even so much as a protective fender.:clap:I wonder how he cools the engine, I see no apparent cooling ability. Never new Cummins built an air cooled engine.

Funny pic! Reminded me of a a goat my inlaws had on their dairy when they still milked, dead of winter the goat would walk up to a bedded down cow and head but the cow to get up and move and then the goat would lay down in the cows warm bed.:lmao:Amazing how smart some animals can be.But really................ why does everyone think it is cold in ND? Northern Minnesota and Montana get way colder than we do almost all the time.We are the land of extremes. 100*+ along with 85% humidity in summer and -25 or less in winter with 30-40 mph winds "This helps keep the mosquitos under control.":surrender:Heck we have been having days with 40-50* temps swings from 70* during the day to 20* at night the last couple weeks, gotta love spring and fall in the North country.

Some engines didn't have very good oil supply or drainage on the top end and the oil tends to sit and do that when mixing with the condensation sludge.

First find out if it is a limited slip and go from there. Jack the axle off the ground in neutral when rolling one wheel they should both rotate the same direction if a limited slip or in opposite directions if an open diff.

Thats how I read it.I am surprised they asked for the serial number, Cummins is big on the CPL "Custom parts list"# for parts ID.I have ordered parts for Cummins giving both but the CPL is the main one due to an engine having dozens of applications and the CPL narrows it down to application.

Welcome to the site.My concern is about your plan to put a Cummins engine in a 1500 chassis. "which has the front D60 axle of the 2500 and 3500 maxed out on 4x4 rigs and causes frame flex issues as well". What are you going to do to the chassis and the rest of drive train that will support the weight, power and torque of the Cummins?

What is SRH? Are you saying you can shoot the 454 rounds through your 44 mag hand gun?Most of my hand guns are mulit cartridge capable.My Ruger single 6 has 2 cyliders, 22 short and LR through one and 22 magnum through the other.Have a Ruger 45 lc custom Black hawk Bisley with 2 cylinders 45 lc and 45 acp.My G20 glock is 10 mm and most will shoot 40 through the 10 mm barrel but I have a lone wolf conversion barrell in 40 for it, the mags accept both with no issues.The Ruger 454 Cassull has been sold but still have all the ammo and reloading supplies which is why I want a 460 to shoot the 45 lc, 454 and 460 cartridges through the same gun.

Hope things go well decision wise.Here in ND our legislature is in session right now and they have passed a few bills and made some more lax but then turn around and shoot down the most important ones this session.:doh:They did take stun guns and tazers off the dangerous weapon list, so they can now be carried concealed legally without a CCW permit.Another was to lax up some of where one can carry also, The CCW law prohibits cc at a public gathering like concerts and school events ect which they upheld but they now allow Churches to make the decision locally as to if and who they will allow to cc in their facilities, they then shot down guns in school even if if had to be approved by the school board and local officials.We can now cc in convienience stores / gas stations that sell lottery tickets, Since they sold loto tickets they were on the list of no cc allowed in any gaming facility, They are no loonger considered a gaming facility but it is still illegal to cc in a gaming and bingo facility.They then shot down another bill that would not allow local officials to cooperate with any federal official when doing any gun related cases to enforce any federal gun law signed into law by the feds after jan1 2013. Our AG "Attorney General" had a major 10 year old tantrum over this one and cried and whined at the sessions and they obiediently did what they were told to on this issue. He thought it would hurt the relationships between federal and state and local law enforcement agencies and jeopardize future relationships with and between them.Then they shoot down a bill to protect our civil liberties of privacy and will not limit drone use and research as we have a state university that is tied in with the Gov to develop and train drone technology at the UND aerospace school, god forbid we loose a few tax dollars from the feds to steal more rights from us, we are having a huge war over control of the major university system here in the state, they seem to be controlling the state versus the other way around. I am Sad and embarassed to say ND is the first state to use drones in an arrest of citizens, over a cattle dispute no less.:doh:ND does allow open carry only if you have a ccw permit or are on your own private property or anothers property with permission or while in an active hunting situation.They do not like to promote or encourage it though. I always have one with me but rarely on me while in public but while hunting am always open carrying although trying to conceal my hand cannons would be kind of hard anyways. I tend to like the BIG HAND GUNS, G20 10 mm glock, anything in .45 LC and 454 Cassull and have been looking for a S&W 460.

No that is not a cooler, many call it a cooler but it is actually a heat exchanger, it works both ways the engine coolant can help draw out some of the tranny heat or the coolant can help warm the tranny oil in cold temps. The oil leaves the heat exchanger and then goes to the cooler up front and returns to the tranny sump from there.

For your price range just start with what is wrong with the tranny in the first place that is causing the shudder, Get a new aftermarket Valve body and you will have a lot more pressure to help the clutches in the tranny and lockup clutch hold tighter. This will get you a lot more life out of your current converter and tranny overall and will keep you in your price range.Do it right and do it once and be worry free, why throw a new 500 dollar converter into something when the stock valve body is what caused it to start slpping in the first place.

Good luck on that price. You should figure around 1200-1500 for a converter and VB at the same time and fluid change. If you shop around you might find a decent after market converter for 750-900 VB is 350-500 depending on what you go with. You want to replace the converter input seal while the tranny and converter are out.

LOL!!!!!!!!!!!! I was thinking along those same lines. Some kids are just plain spoiled, I can't believe what parents let them get away with now days.

Kinda sounds like it lol.

Dealers around here do the same thing, I still get letters wanting my 02. Now I have been getting them for my 2010 Hemi. Just a mass marketing plan to get you into a new rig, not so much after your trade in. Get lots of them wanting my TDI Jetta, pretty much any vehicle we have owned in the last 10 years are supposedly sought after. I will stick with my 05 for a while too, 50-60K for a pickup is just flat out crazy in any world, I only paid 67K for my house/shop and 2 acres 15 years ago probably worth close to 200k now in our local booming economy in ND.

This has been an issue for years, the only replacement is the high dollar 40-60 dollar apiece OEM plastic caps from all the looking I and others have done over the years and have never seen any aftermarket company make any.

Not that I am aware of, I usually just park mine so the front end is down hill filler up with distilled water run it for a minute and drain it through the radiator petcock, On the CR I find it best to pop off the rear heater hose at the block while filling to purge the air from the block otherwise it takes forever to refill and trying to burp it never seems to work on the Cr for some reason. Never had this issue on my 02 24v.