Me78569

Any tuner?

Yes, the gxe way outflows the hy35, but don't expect the gxe to be a 500 hp turbo. It's designed for guys who want extremely fast spooling turbo with an end hp goal of 400-450hp without pushing the turbo out of it's map. the hy and hx 35's are out of their maps by 300-350 hp.

Unless you want to tinker go with the gxe

I had that truck

That gxe will be hard to beat spool wise for a sub 450 hp truck. I'd bet a 3000 compound setup would spool slower. Really comes down to if you would be happy with 400 hp or if you want more.

Id think that'd be a pretty sweet 400hp setup for towing without ever having to look at egts. If you are itching to spend more I would do valve springs and push rods but they aren't really "needed".

For peak upper RPM power I found setting the MAX timing as high as possible lead to more top end power. Max is only used to set timing above 3k rpm. The calculation for timing above 3k rpm is the same as lower RPM bands, but is not constrained by a 500 rpm interval like the lower timing settings.

Or at the very least always use a credit card when unsure. The cc company will refund your money and go through the process of getting the company caught.

We laugh because we used to camp a lot, now it's everyday but we have a bed at the end of the day.

Edit: got time to look at the data log. IOS sucks that's why the timestamps are all jacked. the main issue I see if your boost sense reading 32 all the time. that needs to be fixed. Post a view of the display screen at idle with These sensors then do a drive around and watch the sensors to make sure they make sense. 1. tps 2. rpm. 3. boost 4. timing 5. canbus fuel

lol all those sensors reading wack will make it not work at all. your boost and RPM need to be working at the very min. Temp doesn't come into play for things unless warmup is enabled. Timing and fueling will be WAY WAY WAY out of wack if RPM and Boost are not reading accurately.

Did you test the tune before this? What level on the quad where you running on? Something isn't right.

Dunno I don't have insight into the app.

Nice morning, fires north of us causing the morning red.

I am assuming you want a very aggressive tune so I would say the hang on or balls 2 wall,

please avoid CPP for everyones sake. https://www.yelp.com/biz/cpp-diesel-east-millsboro https://www.bbb.org/us/pa/e-millsboro/profile/new-auto-parts/cpp-diesel-0141-71013456/complaints https://www.google.com/search?q=cpp+diesel+site:www.cumminsforum.com&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS950US950&sxsrf=ALeKk01nt8k0bjikuKj-xS9Guqe2cMytNw:1627397531355&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwicn46ewIPyAhXQGc0KHUTjBbwQrQIoBHoECAYQBQ&biw=2107&bih=1045 https://www.trustpilot.com/review/cppdiesel.com I personally know multiple people / stories of people getting screwed by CCP knowningly aware of their actions.

have you reviewed the tunes in the download section? https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/21-quadzilla-4k-racing-tunes/

If the quad shows no boost ever then that is your issue, the quad fuels %100 on boost reference.

This is the proper answer, FYI, you should be setting your canbus fueling % only as high as needed to make your happy with your take off performance when going to %100 throttle. What I posted will pretty much shovel all your fueling between 0 and %25 throttle input simlar to what the S03 does. This is not preferred.

If you want a catch 9 s03 tune set all sliders to 150% catcher 7 go from 135% to %150 in 5% bumps Catcher 5 %125 to 150% in %5 bumps lvl 3 is no wiretap

the turbo uses a true 4" downpipe from the flange at the turbo. The hx downpipe is a 3" necked out to 4 " after the flange. New dp is required. As for injectors I don't really know what a snap test entails, rv's are a safer bet, but the turbo would really respond nice to the 7 x .009's.

Set your canbus fuel sliders to 150% across the board and then go try it on level 3. Lvl 0 is always stock.

Lithium is not a long term solution, I am betting within 10 years lithium batteries will no longer be used for new EV's. There is a SERIOUS influx of cash being poured into EV. That cash means research and development. This is going to lead to better technology, always has always will. it's gonna be hard to know where to stick investment $$ before the tech comes out, it will be very hush hush. Anyways Even though we bought a new truck we bought a base model, My 2000 had more "opitions" than our current truck. I think that leads to less issues, there isn't much in the truck that hasn't been well tested over the last 3 decades. Thankfully the wife was on board when i told her the more fancy stuff we get the more is likely to break or have issues. Put some cash into the 2nd gen hopefully it keeps going for awhile for you.

For the head gasket I would not break the factory seal unless you have a reason to. I would simply install ARP's per their directions and call it a day. The factory seal if still good is about as good as you can get. Id go with 7 x .009's at a min and 7 x .010's then turn the edge down. unless you deal with emissions then Rv's If I was building a 2nd gen these days I would run this for a turbo. If price is too much then an hx35 and rv's https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-2nd-gen-fit-57-65-12-t3-gated-hx40

I enjoy his channel a lot as it helps me think outside my own box, but this one seems fitting to the forum. Lots of interesting thoughts and information. Statistically lots of lives can be saved.