Me78569

Alright, So the "junk" file is a Json format. Did you follow the directions on how to load a tune?

ios or andriod?

How to build Data logs As for whats safe any of the fueling adjustments feel free to do whatever you like, I dont personally believe you can hurt anything via fueling on a vp44. you can make a bad tune, but the truck will just be slow and smokey it wont blow up. Since you have studs you are pretty safe for timing as well. Your truck will run like garbage long before you blow anything up. Hard pull sub 1500 rpm I wanna see ~15* of timing if i am trying to spool the turbo, then I want 20* by 2k and then 25* by 2500 rpm and 30* by 3k rpm if I am racing. EGT I dont mind seeing 1200*f prolonged while towing, but my setup is hard to get that high with. unloaded short bursts in a race tune 1500*f wouldn't bother me, but again my truck wont get that hot. Boost: reallly depends on what turbo you have. you always want to keep the turbo in it's map. Fuel pressure: 14-20psi is generally accepted as ok. To start set your fuel load to 2* and your light throttle to 2* tpe reduct to 5* and tps scaling to %50, Then start with 1500:16 2000: 19 2500: 24 3000: 29 max: 30 See how the truck drives. Come back to us with any complaints or wishes.

What would cause the truck to be "a completely different animal" ? because %25 throttle = %100 throttle on sw9 it's your butt dyno lying. are you saying your truck was getting slower with only the Quadzilla? It should be CLEAR that the quadzilla runs circles around the smarty.

change is mpg could also be vp44 related as well. We all know how one off they can be. Maybe mikes old pump was the golden pump and his new one is only a bronze pump.

My mpg hasn't really changed related to injector size. Sitting right at that mid to low 20's on the highway. I think mikes mpg changes are related to injector build differences rather than size.

If you installed the smarty it now has factory high idle. High idle is built into the "base flash of the smarty" from this point forward you cannot use the Quadzilla high idle. If you do the truck will stall. The smarty is a canbus fueling and timing box only. with stock injectors you will see no more than 65 hp over stock. with 7 x .009's it is likely 80-90hp over stock. At peak torque using tuning, duration can be increased by %12 over stock, as rpms climb you can make that extra power by holding that fueling command at max longer. the Quadzilla will do the same cansbus fueling adjustment, plus wiretap on top, which is good for another ~100 hp on a stock injector truck. If you put a truck with a Quadzilla vs a truck with a Smarty ( assuming the same mods) the quadzilla will run circles around the Smarty. 180hp vs 65 hp I have datalogged the old quadzilla tunes and they are absolutely able to max duration off the line, you just need to use the throttle pedal. IE if you want %100 duration you need to put your tps down to %70 throttle or more. Heres a datalog of sw9, see how fueling maxes at ~%25 throttle input? here's another log of sw9, see how tps is actually higher? but fueling is still 4095? Once you hit that 4095 fueling command you can't get anymore, doesn't matter if it is a Quadzilla, edge, hypertech, or smarrty. Max duration is still max duration. The reason why duration can't be increased anymore is the fueling command to the VP44 has to be fit into a 2^12 message structure, the max value for 2^ is 4095. If you try to write 5000 you still get 4095, because 5000 programmically wont fit. That "snap" you feel with the smarty is your butt dyno lying to you. You put your foot to %20 throttle and your brain goes "wow so much torque" what your brain DOESNT tell you is going to %50 throttle input results in the same exact power output. Where as with the Quadzilla you put your foot to %20 throttle and you get some go, your brain goes "not as fast" but if you where to put your foot to %100 throttle you would get the same power. You won't blow up your truck by stacking them, but you gain nothing since duration is maxed in both cases. The only thing you gain by stacking is a jumper throttle pedal. If you stack the smarty with the Quadzilla %100 of your fueling is shoved between %0 thottle and %15 throttle. That makes the rest of that %85 throttle movement useless. If you want to run the smarty that is fine, just dont stack them. Dont stack it with an edge either. the Only tuner that hsould be stacked with a smarty is the tst comp.

@Waydin_Stewart I saw you posting over on Smartresource.com stacking the s03 and the Quadzilla is not support. your issues with the truck shutting off are related to the factory high idle fighting the quadzilla high idle. Again this is not supported. you are going to have nothing but trouble if you stack the 2. please review the datalogs from the smarty s03 you can accomplish the same "low end torque" using the Quadzilla alone. once you command max fueling, you can't get anymoire "low end grunt" if you want the quadzilla to command max fuel offidle, just psuh your foot to the floor.... Stacking the two will result in nothing but problems.

Yep, boost scale is wiretap only. 30 psi on a hx40 compressor is likely similar to flow on a hx35 at ~35 psi

you use your right foot to control how much power you want. if you want %20 throttle you use %20 throttle, if you want %50 throttle you use %50 throttle. If the tune you build is too aggressive then you build a new tune with a less violent ramp up in fueling. you dont want to use levels once you get your tune dialed in. I have not switched power levels in months. the Quadzilla will make the truck easier to drive by controlling the fueling, stock will be harder to control. with 7 x .010's you will prob start your tune out at %90 of oem power, this means leaving the light the truck will be less aggressive with the quadzilla on vs quadzilla off. I have 7 x .012's a he351ve that will build 15+ psi at 1500 rpm and bald tires and I am not dying.

The answer has already been given. why do you want to turn off the quadzilla? 7 x .009's will work fine with the turbo but 7 x .010's are a nearly perfect match for a he351cw. without any tuning they will push the turbo to a very sweet spot in the map with room for more fuel, AKA tuning. Going with 7 x .009's vs 7 x .010 means you are going to have to push the tuning harder for the same resulting power. 7 x .010's will give you more useable torque across the entire rpm band with 0 down fall.

The Stock TC really can't take much power over stock before it gives up the ghost. On a stock truck, a good billet single disc and a VB do a WORLD of good.

This thread is for the results of the testing of the differnece pop pressure at the same size. ANY REPLIES NOT ON TOPIC AND OR WITHOUT DATA WILL BE DELETED. I will be running 3 sets of DAP injectors first set at 305 bar, next at 330 and the last at 350 bar. We are going to compare real world situtations and what the pros and cons are of increasing pop pressure. All tests will be datalogged and video taped if applicable. The tune will be EXACTLY the same for all injectors. al runs done on Lvl 3, so no wiretap being used Test conditions. 305 BAR Test 1 0-60 WOT take off, same stretch of road Test 2 55 mph egt on same stretch of road showing egt Test 3 Lugged 45 mph locked od pull to compare spool. 330 BAR Test 1 0-60 WOT take off, same stretch of road Test 2 55 mph egt on same stretch of road showing egt Canbus fueling is ~1125 and egt right around 710-725*f ( road is slightly uphill Test 3 Lugged 45 mph locked od pull to compare spool. 350 BAR Test 1 0-60 WOT take off, same stretch of road Test 2 55 mph egt on same stretch of road showing egt Test 3 Lugged 45 mph locked od pull to compare spool.

It's variable ground.

No clue hahaha.

It will throw a CEL related to no map sensor, but beyond that no issues. The cel will self clear.

Feel free to send some to Colorad

Why not just put an inline switch on the power leads to the adr in the cab? if you need to jump someone just flip the switch to disconnect powre?

The CW is a much newer turbo in terms of design. I would choose a CW over a hybrid because of that alone. True 4" downpipe vs the 3" hx. Both are gonna be getting hot by 450hp, the hybrid will not spool as fast.

ok, Well that explains stuff alittle. I would reflash with V2 4k flash to ensure. what you are seeing on the app tells me that the box does not have the same tuning variables as the app is expecting. Easiest way to check if you have V2 loaded or not is to load the default tune driver around, then go to the datalog. What does it show in the builddate? if it shows 0 then you dont have v2 It's very easy to flash with v2 just follow the directions in the link v2 flash

you have the 4k profile selected. Do you have a 4k box or a normal box?

yes my device sits on my dash running 24/7 365. I never turn the app off, I never turn the screen off, I just get in the truck key on and drive off.

If you dont clock the turbo you run into other issues. Remember the 3rd gens mount the turbo differently, so unless you use a 3rd gen manifold you will have oil drain issues if you dont clock the manifold. You will also have to fab up a charge pipe from the turbo to the i intercooler if you dont clock the turbo. the cw is a 60/60/9 I believe.