Me78569

Hell if I know haha. but If you have the stuff under the dash you can have one of my fobs.

I ordered 2. Do you have the keyless stuff from the factory and someone lost the fob or do you not have it at all?

I am gonna try I lost my keyfob in the lake with my pants ( don't think too dirty) and I am too cheap to take it to the dealer.

I really like that mod.....

absolutely, If you have more aggressive fueling below ~30% throttle you will notice early shifts as you are not using the same throttle input % to get the truck moving when DD in stop and go light to light driving.

Yea the Psg might be wrong for the vp44. Just guesses here, I would be very curious to hear what blue chip says.

I'd say 9 mpg towing at 70 mph is completely normal. I'd ditch the edge and get EFI live and report back. There is no reason to not have good tuning on your truck. The Edge is far from that.

I almost wonder if the PSG was a "good" PSG from a core that he moved to the pump you got. It would explain why half of the silicon is cut out. Almost as if the psg was unsoldered from one pump and moved to another.

I am a little fuzzy on how all the costs come together, but $1200 is what I found. However the pricing is complicated so I might be miss reading it.

The smarty is limited to 65 hp. that's about it. The quad doesn't read codes and the edge doesn't fuel to 3200 rpm. I would love to try the smarty pro udc, but last time I checked you were well over a grand for the setup needed. If you have not seen the quad v2 videos tyler has posted I would take a look, half because I wrote the new tunes and I am bias and half because it is WAY cheaper and offers a really nice end result.

Yep, Some of the tables are open, the important ones at least. However I cannot stomach the price. too rich for my blood, plus the changes I was able to make to the quad base tunes keeps me very happy. I doubt udc could make my truck run that much better at this point.

smarty pro

Ideal will be different based upon what you want. My tunng with the quadzilla doesn't even reach oem fueling levels until 12ish psi. Below 12 psi I am less agressive than stock. the truck moves around fine with my 100's and sub oem fueling. I wouldn't be so worries about psi or EGT, rather I would tune for smoke conrol vs how you want the truck to drive.

I would start by making sure the tv cable is adjusted correctly.

Are you %100 sure that it is downshifting? That speed is right around where the TC locks and unlocks. Same thing will happen in OD, If you let up on the throttle the TV cable pulls less and the trans might unlock the converter if you are right around 45 mph. Is this a new issue?

Once a week or so I try to search ebay quick for cummins parts. Sometimes you can score a new old item for next to nothing and leave it on the shelf.

Watching this now and I gotta say it is pretty awesome https://www.netflix.com/title/70059639 Movie with lots of interviews with the guys that have been to the moon.

Make sure you make the code know what pin is for the canbus and what is for the eb. I am still not sure if you changed the code for the arduino board.

I like my EXTech 450

The little red light on the board should blink very fast. Did you swap the wires and make hte change to make the board use pin 9 rather than 10? It looks like in the code my EB switch was on pin 9 so you would have to pick a new pin and move the EB sense wire to another digital pin I am betting the EB sense is causing hte canbus to not get there. Move the eb sense wire to another wire, change line 38 on the first tab from 9 to whatever pin you move your EB sense to. If you have not changed line 23 to have a 9 rather than 10 do that. Or you can change the sheild to use pin 10 rather than 9, whatever you would like to do.

I am guessing you are not getting any movement in any situtation. I am assuming that hte turbo is on the truck now? Did you try swapping the canbus wires to see if they are backwards?

I understand trust me. I had my tps sense wire go bad and somehow short to my boost reading haha. So I thought f it I'll just cut the tps sense wire...well I forgot that tps was considered for a bunch of stuff..ugh However once you get things sorted it will run good. The code at this point is pretty dang stable and I haven't thought of anything to add in sometime. I wish there was a shield for connectors so I could trash the screw shield. Hopefully she isn't to critical of my code lololol.

that would be my first guess. If you wanted to bypass the TPS check you can just change if (digitalRead(EBSwitch) == LOW && ThrottlePosition < 5) { eb_mode = true;} else { eb_mode = false; } //If below %5 then engage Exhaust brake and regulate the exhaust pressure. To if (digitalRead(EBSwitch) == LOW) { eb_mode = true;} else { eb_mode = false; } //If below %5 then engage Exhaust brake and regulate the exhaust pressure. Starting to get a feel for things yet? if you haven't yet I would suggest you read through the code. I tried to comment it pretty well so people could understant the important stuff.

I would look for boost leaks. It is farily easy to overfuel the turbo down low. As for the EB, you should just be able to ground out the EB sense wire and it will override the other tuning. Are you using TPS input? EB mode requires under %5 tps input if you are not using tps then you might have a float TPS value. If that is the case we can just set the variable for TPS to read 0

That's already in the code posmanage tab line 87 if (turbo_rpm < minimum_turbo_rpm) { if (BoostPressure < 10) {vane_position = 700;} else if (BoostPressure < 20){vane_position = 600 ;} else { vane_position = 500;} //so that the turbo will default to %50 if no rpm sense. } } So if psi is under 10 then you get 700, which is 9cm under 20 you get 600 which is 12ish and over 20 psi you get 500 which is 14cm Minimum turbo variable is 1000. I know that section is working since my shaft speed stopped working a bit ago haha. Ended up being a bad wire, but I wrote that section in to help ensure the turbo works without shaft speed.