Me78569

First long trip with the tuning netted a ~2 mpg improvement. Best ever was 24.7. that was stock injectors and light AT type tires. When I changed tires to the much heavier MT tires I have now, my best went down to 22mpg with those tires. Just did a run with heavier tires and the 7 x.009 injectors and netted 24.4 mpg. There is some more to be gained as my prior best numbers where 100% highway, this run was not and some stop and go.

I would send the new one back. That does not look like a new pump to me.

21 is nothing ot be ashmed of at 75 mph. My truck struggles to break 18 at those speeds. Seems anything over 60 my mpg drop off like a rock.

How is your wiretap done? Did you boost leak test after the install? numerous gaskets and boots are removed to install a vp.

The point of this next gen of tuning for the 2nd gen is to give anyone the power to "custom tune". It wouldn't be as custom as EFI or udc pro, but if tyler can make his setup clean and smooth then I don't see a need for more than that. If you understand that setting a PSI value to %80 will give you %80 of stock at that PSI then you can use this tool. I am excited to see what changes are made to the Iquad app for this. It should make it VERY easy for anyone to tune. You literally set a % for every boost PSI from 0 to 30psi to map out your tune. Easy as that. I am not going to promise MPG gains, but so far I think that anyone with overstock sized injectors could gain a significant amount. The guys with larger injectors, rv275's included, should be fueling less than stock map amounts. I need to make a hyper mile tune to see what I can do on the highway, but I am guessing that Mike could get close enough to 30 mpg not to matter.

i love data logging. I changed a couple things to allow for the showing of the canbus fueling input and the output. You can see the lighter orange is the canbus input and the darker is the output. This custom tuning created to find what the max % was for canbus fueling. It looks like anything over %125 on the top end ( over 20psi boost) is going to max out the fueling messages. %150 can be used below that to give a faster rampup to full fueling. Custom tuning was 0- 97 1- 98 2- 99 3- 100 4- 101 5- 102 6- 103 7- 104 8- 105 9- 106 10- 107 11- 108 12- 109 13- 110 14- 111 15- 112 16- 114 17- 116 18- 118 20- 120 22- 122 24- 124 26- 124 28- 124 30- 124 I also found that for the guys having issues getting the beta tune to load. Reloading the custom tune doesn't actually load more of the variables, is the powering off of the truck for long enough for the screen to disconnect, then turning the truck to on and connecting the screen. You can check how many of the custom tuning varibles are being loaded by creating a new custom tune and checking the default values being used, the default values will be what the ADR box is currently using for that value.

I am guessing the address for the screen is not correct. If you look on arduino page 1 line 24 you see "0x27" Also does your screen have a i2c board on it? Google how to find the address of a ic2 screen. Once you find the address change the 0x27 to whatever you have. Also verify you have the sdasca wires in the correct position for the screen.

no rush. If you do load the one from yesterday just leave it on the default tune and see how it acts. If it actus differently than before we know that not all of the AIDS are being applied %100 of the time as I am guessing. Hopefully it runs smooth and strong, I am guessing the 8psi blip will be strange.

The one I sent last night had your custom tune as the base tune, that was the only change. I would recommend only using the base tune to see if it runs good. There is no data transfer in that case. If your custom tunes are feeling weak up top I am gonna guess all the tuning variables are not being saved due to the exisitng bug. I have found that if I load the custom tune like 10 times in a row it seems to go, but it is hard to tell.

found that not only is my Cruise Contorl now working good, but my lie-o-meter is about as accurate as it was on stock fueling ( within 1 or 2 mpg) It's the little things

So the wire that you ground via the yellow crimps is the PCM and ECM ground From what I can tell there is no wired ground to the alternator, it is grounded via the mounting to the block, as shown by the wiring diagram. I am in no way saying what you did didn't solve your issue, but I want to make sure we are all on the same page and don't end up with misinformation in regards to this.

There are a number of members that have done this so I am sure someone has the answer.

I would test for AC noise. For whatever reason our alternators are PLEGED by that issue. AC noise is TERRIBLE for all the electronics in the truck. You can ground things all day long, but the issue is still there hidden causing issues for the future. We know for a fact that most of the unlock issues are due to AC noise. My point is the alternator is grounded to the engine block via bolts / mount, the block is grounded to the battery by two 0 or 0/2 gauge wires. I don't see how another wire to the alt to ground is going to help, unless your alternator is not making good ground via the mount, which is possible. The addition of a small gauge wire shouldn't be needed.

It's hard to see, but It look like you are just adding and replacing / fixing a ground ( PCM and ECM)? The main battery ground connects directly to the block. I am not sure I see the point of the secondary ground. Not trying to be a naysayer but the 12 gauge wire is not even worth the trouble when you have that 0 gauge wire doing the same thing. If you PCM / ECM ground wire was bad then fixing that is a good thing. Have you tested any of your 4 trucks for AC noise in the charging system? Andrew, If the alternator guy said your are getting .1 AC off the alternator I am going to say your alternator is causing the unlocking issue. I honestly cannot count how many guys have unlock issues, test and find AC noise then replace the alternator and no longer have issues. What changed since leaving the factory in the truck that causes the truck to now need another ground wire? Something wore out is what I can see.

so I am assuming you are using the key to start the truck back up? how many seconds? How are are you scanning for codes? Sounds to me like a bad crank or cam sensor, but typically you see a code.

Went from ~$250 for 3 vehicles to $125 or something like that. No idea why. I really don't like dealing with insurance so I tend to get frustated and just give up lol

I really should put full coverage on it, then park slight more into the street each day lolol. nah nothing but the bare mins on my trucks. It might bite me someday, but up until this point I have never used insurance, that's a lot of months of $100 saved.

.9 is not ok that alternator's diodes are burnt out.

I still highly recommend a good TC and VB. The difference it makes in putting power down is more noticable than a chip, at least it was for me.

The 47re really doesn't like more power, it is a good trans, but only when you keep it within the limits it was designed for I would recommend an upgraded Torque converter and Valve Body at the very least.

It makes us all scratch our heads as to your intentions when you make a post like that. We have a lot of trial and error pointing to bad alternators causing %99 of the lockup issues in 2nd gen trucks. From what we have seen in the past there is no $10 fix that resolves the root issue of burnt out diodes in the Alternator. We are all ears, but you will have to let us know what you found to work. You will find that we are pretty close knit group so we like to see info spread rather than hid.

Yea I can do that.

That sucks

I would do 100's as they leave you open for more in the future and you can just turn the box down. There is no need to have the box cranked, but in the future if you do want to go with a he351 or a 62 type turbo you will have enough fuel.

Sorry I wasn't clear. At idle and DD they are %100 clean. The most they ever do when driving at wot like an idiot is haze. They are very very very clean injectors. At sea level I could not make them smoke.