Me78569

Have you cleared them to see if they come back? What voltage is your truck charging at? Test the wiring for the temp prob under the battery, if it is good then replace the sensor I'd replace the trans sensors. I would think that would help your codes.

Truck truck thinks it needs x power to move the truck at x mph. It may need 100 hp to do 75 so the cruise is programmed to try and get engine to the 100 hp calculation. So some example numbers, ] So %30 TPS = 100 hp typically in stock form. Well add a fueling box to mix, what hp you used to make at %30 tps is now equal to the hp you now make at %20 TPS. so %20 TPS = 100 hp with a smarty. So when the cruise control is trying to regulate speed it is thinking it will need a higher TPS input than it will actually need. thus it will overshoot the target speed, and then pull out of the throttle to try and bring the speed down. However you end up in a slingshot effect back and forth. Now mix into it all the fact that in stock form our trucks need %10 increase in throttle to hold speed at a given grade. so the cruise is programmed for that. Increasing your power via a fueling box means you now only need %5 tps increase to hold speed. It is more complex than that, but you get the idea.

that's the nature of vacuum cruise control and a higher than stock power level. The stock cruise programming isn't calibrated for anything over 245 hp....

You can get Spicer cheaper at http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2077_dana_spicer_708047_ball_joint_set_for_2000_to_2002_dodge_ram.html I got my last set of Spicer there.... I now have AC Delcos sitting on my desk waiting to go into the truck whenever I get some free time.

Cool. You should like it. Mine has been treating me well for some time now.

My truck knows it is not allowed to break. I treat it too poorly for it to break.

Ouch man. I suppose it was bound to happen.

Never meant to say the old stuff is bad, just that it is, well old in computer terms so we cannot expect it to work without issues from time to time. for what they had to work with in 1997-8 the vp44 system is actually REALLY awesome.

I would like to see the paperwork on where the others guys got their butt dynos calibrated...... Must be the same place they got their fish length detectors calibrated. That must be the issue.

Agree'd dyno numbers are useless to compare truck to truck. They read high, they read low, they read right, take your pick. I don't honestly care about 400 hp vs 500 hp, so no need to be sorry ( basic ricer math push comparing other setups that did run a dyno is why I came up with that number, guesstimate at best) Ricer math says your setup should have put down more power with the twins, but it isn't important. Point is Tylers old setup with 125's was significantly less powerful that his current setup. Torque curve area does make a huge butt dyno difference, The butt dyno lies, but it doesn't lie that much, it was honestly night and day difference. well more like going from Wow that's quick, to holy hell that's a beast. Knew I should have gone with 7 x .010

Think of it this way, Do you still use a computer that was built in 1998 and is running windows 98? You are driving a truck that is VERY VERY VERY old in computer terms.

Gotta love these old trucks. Right now I have 1. a PCM that is locking the TC all the time, I don't have time to dig into it right now so I am driving my auto like a manual. 2. ABS nad brake light on all of the sudden 3. ball joints that are as loose as bells, replaced them 10k ago 3. some random knock in the front end.......

Tyler, Having been in your truck with both the single and twins I can say there is no way the twins are making only 518hp. The difference with the twins and sticks is like going from a canbus fueling only box to a wiretap fueling box, at least in terms of the butt dyno riding in the passenger seat. If you really wanna guesstimate power, we can line up and do a rolling pull between my truck and yours. I should be between 450hp and 475 hp I would guess. I know you would walk me easy, but if you don't we know there is an issue.

If you keep getting an apps code I would look into that also. If the PCM senses you are pulling out of the throttle it will unlock the TC.

I would guess it it was hanging on by a string and Mike just pushed it over the limit. Maybe we should all do burnouts before leaving to ensure that everything is good..

Do you lights bounce around? The bulbs can get damaged if the housings aren't reducing the shock of the bumps on the road.

Air lea,s typically won't be visible. The air is sucked into the system. pickup tube could be the issue, it does happen.

start checking all the lines from the Fuel filter back for leaks.

haha I joked about that years ago.

What repairs need to be done.

How long are they lasting? The "brighter" the bulb the shortly they will last. Whats your charging voltage?

No point in having it.

Yea thats a smarty code not a boost fooler code. Even if you did install a boost fooler the code would still exist.

What code do you get? The smarty doesn't need a boost fooler.

Ensure the dipstick pipe is not in the way. Beyond that I dunno man.