Me78569

Mine sensor did the same thing, it was a result of a bad sensor. proper operation should mirror actual oil pressure if you have a pressure sensor and not the switch update.

yep

Disconnect the VP44 wiring harness connector completely. Connect pin 6 on the VP44 to battery ground. Connect pin 7 on the VP44 to battery positive. A diagram of the sockets on the VP44 wiring harness connector is included below. The pins on the VP44 will be the reverse of this diagram (a mirror image). Make sure you know which pins are which... numbers are molded on the connector and possibly on the VP44 (I can't remember). You must insure you don't cause any short circuits or make connections to the wrong pins on the VP44. I would also strongly advise you to add a 15 amp fuse between the VP44 and battery positive. As soon as you make the last connection the VP44, it will be ON and ready to go. Attempt to start the engine in the normal manner. If everything is working properly, the engine will immediately start and idle and do nothing else. View full Cummins article

Disconnect the VP44 wiring harness connector completely. Connect pin 6 on the VP44 to battery ground. Connect pin 7 on the VP44 to battery positive. A diagram of the sockets on the VP44 wiring harness connector is included below. The pins on the VP44 will be the reverse of this diagram (a mirror image). Make sure you know which pins are which... numbers are molded on the connector and possibly on the VP44 (I can't remember). You must insure you don't cause any short circuits or make connections to the wrong pins on the VP44. I would also strongly advise you to add a 15 amp fuse between the VP44 and battery positive. As soon as you make the last connection the VP44, it will be ON and ready to go. Attempt to start the engine in the normal manner. If everything is working properly, the engine will immediately start and idle and do nothing else.

Have you tried the hotwire test?

It is just an expensive lockup switch. What lockup issues?

Sounds like the pump then, just odd not to have a code. Do rpms on the dash go to ~250 rpm when cranking?

are you reading codes with a code scanner or just the key trick? any changes to the truck as of late?

Any codes? When you say it won't crank do you mean it does not turn over when you turn the key or do you mean it turns s over but does not fire?

It's in the VB. What you have is trigged by trans temp normally

you eitehr have low fluid or your fluid temp is too high. or the sensor in the trans is bad.

I would also say it is pretty rare to see a VP just up and quit. the vast majority of the time they give clear signs that an issue is coming.

If your injectors are hazing at idle they are likely worn. You can have them checked out. For the cost of a ppump swap you can likely buy a spare vp44 and have it ready for when they vp does fail. 150,000/200,000 miles is not uncommon for one.

the vp is a reliable pump, but anything can break after 100,000 miles of use. ppump swap would help reliablity, but even those can break down. maintence is key for reliablity. Your turbo is not a great choice and you wont be able to twin it with a hx35 as the 65 is too small. the tuning and the injectors also dont have the control of newer era tuning.

you have a tired VP44 along with other issues. Get into the articles section and troubleshoot the codes. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/

difference is you two know the history of your engine and all those miles. @dripley hit the nail on the head, the things you did maintence wise to hit those numbers may not have been done. how you drove might be different, did he abuse the truck? ( which I find a funny question to ask on a truck that was rolled) I would not buy a 300,000 mile motor and expect it to be in good shape without maintence history showing the thing was taken care of. it is easy to ruin even a mighty cummins in under 100,000 miles only point is If you are taking someone elses vehicle and parting it for money you better expect the worst.

for me I see 300,000 miles and I automatically think "it will need to be rebuilt"

@dripley now's your chance to own one just need a raffle ticket lolol

%85 of the 2nd gens on the road today. I simply cannot value a 24v with 300,000 miles at 4k. There is a reman 24v on craigslist locally for 4500 that is "rebuilt" Considering the time it takes to part a vehicle you need to consider time into the entire thing, if you spend 80 hours tearing stuff apart / talking to people / post on craigslsit / meeting people / shipping then $1000 profit is nothing. you can make more working at hobby lobby. it takes a lot of time and effort to part a vehicle. Been there done that, it's not profitable unless you get your vehicle at pennies on the dollar.

If I am looking to buy parts to make money I normally use the %50 rule of thumb to cover time and costs that are not directly evident. IE if I buy it for $1000 I need to make $2000 to make it worth it. I dont see making $9000 that vehicle. I see ~3-4k in parts, ~$500 on scrap and ~80 hours of trying to part stuff out.

$4500 for a truck that was rolled??? looking at the pictures I would give it %50 of that max assuming the driveline was in good shape.

sensor is likely just a touch off. the ecm is reporting 1 psi all the time. You can try another sensor or just ignore it.

I have been eye balling the treager. As for curing meat, not yet. It does interest me though

Might wanna check our current raffle out. They are worth it. They read everything that is on the obd bus.