AH64ID

So they are on a 3rd revision?!?! That really has me wondering what is up. That is 3 different spindles and hubs, seems like trial and error. I know when I shopped for hubs ones of the reasons Yukon was wider than spyntec was bearing heat. It makes me wonder if the 1st shorty kit ran too hot.

Donalson makes most, if not all, of those filters. Metal gets soft whe in gets hot, and a 1200° manifold will put out some heat. It's one of the main reasons I think BHAFs are a horrible idea, I want to feed my turbo ambient temp air and not overheated engine bay air.

IMHO that is a far better filter than the paper BHAF that many run.... Have any photo's zoomed out? The reason I didn't think it looked like a 4510 is the photos make it look round, and the 4510 is an oval.

The Amsoil filters are not washed, or washable. That looks like it didn't fit in the engine bay, or it made contact with something after being installed and is not damaged from being "sucked down". Maybe it's the angle of the photo, but that doesn't look like a 4510.

Look at the link I posted, it shouldn't stick out past the tire.

The shorty seems to stick out past the center cap, just not past the tire. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/528901-new-spyntec-shorty-hub-conversion-review-install.html

I would add 5 more gallons, just to be safe... or go to a level spot. I would also throw a charge on the batteries, CR's can sounds like they have enough juice and still not enough to fire. Then bump the starter 3-4 times. Bump means go on-start-on quickly enough it doesn't fire (not an issue, I know...but). This should purge any air, and try again. Fuel in the rail doesn't always mean enough pressure to fire.

Since December 8th, when we bough the house, we have used about 1.75 tons of pellets which is about 2 chords worth of BTUs.

Try the key on-off-on-off-on-off-on trick and see if anything shows on the dash. It sounds like the ECM failed.

The Edge products alter the signal, and stray signals do funny things to ECM's. There are plenty of issues with Edge plug in products, even thou they don't alter the ECM. It's one of the big reason they lose popularity quickly.

I would remove every bit of the edge from the truck before going to the dealer. The dealer is going to have to re-install your software most likely, as a 2nd to last ditch effort. The reason I say to remove the Edge again is that it could possibly be the culprit, and complete removal is the best way to work on it. If nothing else take it 100% out of the equation. While it's out I would sell it and buy a Smarty.

YUCK!! It's a pressure box, and those aren't looked upon very kindly much anymore. Initially they were an easy way to make power, but they are much harder on injectors and due to that their popularity has decreased. To completely rule it out I would disconnect the batteries, remove the Egde at every connection, reconnect OEM sensors, then reconnect the batteries. Drive it for a few heat cycles and see where you are at. Have you done the key on-off trick the check for codes that way?

What model edge?

I would use the Edge feature to clear codes, even if none are present. Every scanner I have used will try to clear codes even if there are none; however, many cheap scanners cannot properly clear codes on a Dodge of that era. The Dodge uses non-standard clearing procedures from what I hear. Once that is done I would see what it says.

Sell it on eBay.

No EFI is 06+ only. I suggest filling out your sig so we know more details about your truck.

I am pretty heavily involved in Smarty tuning and have not heard much, if any, talk of the BD custom route. My 0.02 is switch to Smarty and sell the BD stuff.

Bringing it back.... I was doing a little studying last night and came across a section that is relevant. a. Power (1) Power is defined as the rate of doing work. (a) Assuming a book weighs 1 pound and is lifted 3 feet off the table, 3 foot-pounds of work has been done. (b) It does not matter how fast (1 second) or how slow (1 year) the book is lifted, the same amount of work is always done. © It does, however, take more power to lift the book in a lesser amount of time. (d) Consequently, the units of power are defined as the amount of work (ft-pounds) per unit of time (seconds). (2) The most common expression of power measurement is known as horsepower. (a) Horsepower is defined as the amount of weight (pounds) a horse could move 1 foot in 1 second. (b) By experiment, it was found that the average horse could move 550 pounds a distance of 1 foot in 1 second. That is a very clear and concise way to explain the interaction and importance of both hp and torque. Since horsepower is not effected by gearing it is very important to have enough hp to do the job, while torque can be multiplied thru gearing.

Good score! Time to turn some extra rpms while cruising :-) 70 mph is about a 85 rpm increase in OD. 55 mph is about a 65 rpm increase in OD and about 95 in 3rd. Towing at 55 will be 1770 in 4th and 2560 in 3rd.

Due to the neglect most power steering systems receive I would reccommend a top quality synthetic ATF.

I didn't have to, but I did. The OEM ones were open and steel, the new ones are closed and chrome.

Yes, AFIK all trailer wheels are a zero offset.

They are on!! I like the look and the 3 miles home the towed GREAT :-) I'll get some better pics down the road, lighting sucks today.

I made some smoked salmon smoked nachos last night! Smoke a wild Alaskan Salmon fillet for 3-4 hours. Line a 13x9 pan with foil Place a layer of chips in pan Put a layer of crumbled smoked salmon, black beans, diced onion and shredded cheddar/Jack.. Sprinkle with lime juice Repeat chips and toppings layer Top with shredded queso blanco Smoke/bake in smoker at 275-325° Additional toppings could be green chillies, retired beans, tomato (top after cheese melts, only long enough to get warm) Serve with fresh homemade guac and beer

Yes it should, but the number of pumps has me wondering.