AH64ID

When you say CL so you mean CI? CL isn't a specification I have heard of. The oil formulation change was primarily based on particulate filters, not fuel. If CI oil is used it can plug up the DPF, so a low ash oil had to be formulated. To get ash down some of the ZDDP had to be removed and replaced with a different additive package. Both CI and CJ are designed for up to 500ppm fuel. CJ oils are fine, but I don't think they are as good as CI oils for non-DPF trucks, this includes deleted 6.7s. The high ZDDP is important for flat tappet motors, like the ISB. The substitute in CJ oil is adequate, and since CI oil not readily available then just run a diesel oil of your choice. There are plenty of people with a lifetime supply of CI oil in their garage due to changes from CI to CJ.

CJ oils are made to be backwords compatible, so they meet CI specs. That being said CJ oils have a lower TBN, as fuel is the age determining factor on 2007+ engine, not breakdown from acidity. They also have lower ZDDP, but are supposed to make up for it with other additive packages. On non-DPF engines I still think CI-4+ is a better oil, especially if you run your oil for more than 7,500 miles. None of those oils are CI-4+ anymore, they are all a CJ-4 oil. The only exception might be if you find some old stock on the shelf, which I highly doubt. Delo still lists their CI-4 15w-40 on their website, but I don't think it's made anymore. It was made for a while in conjunction with LE for the marine market, but even the marine market needs CJ-4 for it's modern engines. I do know that Amsoil AME is CI-4+ and I run it, there are a couple others but I don't recall them anymore. Bypass every 1,000 miles? That seems very frequent.

I've got a little 15w-40 in the freezer at -5°F, it pours pretty slow. Once it all settles back on the bottom of the jar I will take a video.

I was working late when I saw that you called, I've got your real number saved and will return the call. But... What if Jessie's girls was really Stacie's mom.. and her number was 867-5309???

Your profile made me laugh, I didn't actually call. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6WTdTwcmxyo

Earlier today... I used the name and number in your profile... Jenny sounded hot....

I tried calling you, but Jenny has no clue who Dork Diggler is.....

±70 for the most part, some stretches at 65 and some at 73. There were times the rain/wind was so strong, and so much standing water that I would from 3 psi on level ground to 8-11 psi!

I have read a lot of stories of short lived aftermarket parts, so even if they have a lifetime warranty there is a lot of labor involved. I sucked it up and bought a Cummins pump to replace mine, I just read about fewer failures and repeat failures.

I have put about 1300 miles on the truck in the last week, including a Boise-Seattle(Duvall)-Portland-Boise road trip. The weather was crap for nearly all of the loop, mostly rain and standing water on the roadway in addition to a 10-30mph head wind for 350 of the 500 miles from Boise to Seattle. I was about 9000 lbs GVW on the trip up with a bookshelf in the bed that was resting on the tailgate, and 9400 lbs GVW on the return trip and the bed loaded just below the be rails. Overall stats for 3 of the tanks was 1238.9 miles and 71.537 gallons for an average of 17.32, with a low of 16.88 and a high of 18.3. The 18.3 tank even included a little towing when I got back home, enough to take 1mpg off the overhead in 14 miles. I really like the way the truck runs, and based on the ambient conditions I cannot complain about the mileage at all. I have a minor tweak or two to make to the tune, but I am waiting to see hp results at the dyno tomorrow and will adjust from there.

I stopped off at a scale today, 8430 without me it in. That's a full tank of fuel, and normal winter stuff in the toolbox, and a cleaned out cab/bed. Considering I am running around 250lbs more tire/wheel than I used to that isn't bad.

That's the plan, it goes out about 13" from the bench seat so number 5 will have to sit on a stool or fold up chair. I just need to measure the proper seat height and find something.

Sump size makes comparing OTR to our ISB difficult. I am running dino on my new motor right now and there are some noticeable differences over synthetic. Dino takes longer to build pressure, and drops pressure with temp quicker. Synthetic is just more temperature stable.

I am slowly building a road trip box that currently has a vacuum pump, water pump, and belt. I am going to start collecting sensors. The box will only get put in the truck when I am going a ways from home.

The other thing I did this weekend (besides pick up the 6V's and such in Seattle) was build a new table for the TT. Well my Dad built it and I helped, he is the one with the full wood shop. We have about 10 hours into it and it came out awesome. I got it mounted last night. The goal was to have room for all 5 of us to sit at the table, and when hunting room for 3 adults. Here is the old table over it, as you can see there is a lot more surface area without the leaf up, mainly from squaring the sides instead of the taper on the ends.

It's a 66/74/14 , which is sized around high rpm and high power. The Silver series is more like a track turbo, the PS is the towing series, and the SPS is the tweener. If he is willing to spend around 2K have him look into a GT3788R, the will spool faster and be better in twins down the road. Same thing, have him talk to Turbo Re-Source a GT3788R with a Stage 2 .89 housing is a good street turbo.

What are the OEM rims rated for weight and pressure wise? My dad runs that size and range on his horse trailer.

The silver bullet is lousy in twins for 600-650, spools very slow as a single and slower in twins. It also is too much turbo for a smarty jr, for good street manners he would want to run it with injectors and a Smarty S06 and UDC. Tell him to get an S06 with UDC over SSR, he will be much happier. Even if he just gets an S06 he will be happier, SSR is a pain to dial in and to so it properly takes hours on the dyno. Have him modify his stock HE351 with a larger turbine wheel, Turbo Re-Source is who I have used, and then when he does twins put a S475 under it. If he really wants a new turbo have him look at a 63/68/12.

Looks like you added a video, pull em and send em back... Try to get a refund and buy new, remans seem to be the cause of lots of problems.

Run a Donaldson ELF7349, it's rated for 25K miles. There also isn't a better filter that spins onto our trucks. With modern filters there isn't much reason to change a filter before the oil, unless you are running extended drain intervals beyond 20-25K miles.

Haha, yeah I know the feeling. When my truck broke it was on the way into Elk camp, added some stress the first few days for sure!

I run synthetic 15w-40 year round, if I ran dino oil and saw below 0° I would switch in winter. I have seen how slow dino 15w oils move below 0, it's not something I want in my engine. If I lived in areas that saw below -25° I would run synthetic 5w-40. There are a few 30wt oils that meet the Cummins min high temp cST spec, Amsoil HDD comes to mind. But if you tow heavy or make a bit of HP I would stick to a 40wt.

Glad you have it home now, I bet it was a stressful wait.

My first thought was a sensor out of whack, but that won't throw a rail pressure code since it doesn't think there is anything wrong. My rail pressure reads 20 with 0 pressure, just the big range of the gauge.. so I agree with normal. Was fuel pressure normal while the driving issues were occurring? A failing FCA shouldn't effect throttle sensitivity, unless it's pushing a lot more fuel than needed (i.e. more power) that will also cause the detonation sound. Did the rail pressure ever seem high? I haven't personally seen low rail pressure cause the sound, but I suppose it's possible. I cruise at 12-15K psi with my current tune and no noise. When are you headed back up? EDIT: It could very possibly be a faulty rail pressure sensor. The pressure might not be reading correctly (explains the P0192) and would open the FCA to get the pressure up. If the pressure was really higher than the reading claimed it would explain the throttle sensitivity, and timing rattle. You are correct not to drive it, if what I just stated is true you could be running 26K psi and not knowing it.

I currently have about 1500 miles on my 245/70R19.5 LRG tires, and I am very impressed. They ride great, they handle well, and the truck is more stable with 60psi in them than 80 psi in the LRE's while towing. If you need more weight carrying capacity or a bigger safety margin these are the way to go.