AH64ID

Thanks for the info.

Wow that is CHEAP!

After seeing the differences in towing with a NV4500 and a NV5600 I wouldn't spend the time nor money on a 5 speed, nothing against them but if your doing the swap do it right. The NV5600 is getting harder to find parts for, but a G56 would work also. I think it takes a little relocating with a ball-pin hammer but I have read about them in 2nd gens.. Its something to consider anyhow. The G56 is much lighter, not quite as strong at a NV5600 but it will handle 500-600+ hp with ease. If you tow often the AD G56 is the one you want, if you don't get the AE. If you have 4.10's get an AE G56.

If for some reason it turns out to be the actuator I highly recommend the posi-lok. We have used them on several chevies with great results. http://4x4posi-lok.com/

Me too.. lots of fun!

Exactly as Mike said, the block holds a lot of coolant, over 2 gallons on mine. Because of this I would do 3-4 flushes before adding coolant. Add the concentrate first, and use enough for the half the full volume, then top it off with distilled water and you will be at 50:50.

Yep. So on that note add the coolant first and add half of the capacity, then fill with distilled water. I would never use pre-mix in a Cummins, they just don't drain enough out and your coolant will be too thin. My system holds 7.4 gallons, but a normal drain only gets about 5 gallons out. So if I used premix the ratio would be 33% coolant, well below the 44% coolant minimum Cummins/Mopar has established.

The cooling systems on these trucks is so large that under light loads the thermostat never opens fully, and this creates a wear mark on the shaft and sometime after lots of miles the thermostat loses the ability to fully open. You also get a lot more cycles of the thermostat when your not loaded all the time, so the spring weakens and starts to react slower. I changed my thermostat at 48K miles and it made a HUGE difference. Pre-change I could see 202-207* spikes on initial thermostat opening, then I would run normal. Now I see 195-197* spikes on initial opening. Mine hadn't developed a wear spot, but it did react slower, and it really had very few miles on it.I think a thermostat is about $30 from Cummins. I would only run genuine Cummins, and 190* is what came stock so that's what I run.

It could also be valve, valve seat, or push rod related. Pop the valve cover and take a peek.

I personally recommend the FASS Platinum, it has 1 filter and better filtering than either 2 filter system.

Looks great! I am a fan of white!

Glad to hear it went smooth.

Yep, he fixed it last week. So far so good.

So what does this do for temperature? One of the main benefits to lockup is lower trans temps.

It gets DAMN cold in UT and CO... What no Idaho.. Mike may ban you :-)Best of luck! I am sure you'll get something you enjoy.

That's awesome.. Much better than Tom Cruise.

Have you considered the Amsoil semi-synthetic? https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/pco.aspx Preferred pricing is just over $21 a gallon, a little cheaper than the full syn 15w-40.

Yeah.. thats a lot of boost for a HX35. I don't like going past 35 on my HE351.

Agree a boost gauge is the best. If its stuck open you'll smoke and won't build much boost.. If its stuck closed you'll build boost like Mike.

They may not be the rage these days as I don't *think* they make one for the G56.

The 305/555 specs were HO, there was also a SO in 03-04 at 250/460.

Yeah the new 3rd gen filter has 4" pleats and is supposed to be killer. The OD of the box is 4". I run the Amsoil nano-fiber with great UOA results, but its CFM is a little lower than stock, but with the HD CAI I don't suck the minder down, but do have to clean the filter every 5K.. The HD CAI also induces more dirt.

Looks super functional and will probably do better at the pump.

I know a few guys that have had them, they like them but aren't sure they would buy them a 2nd time.

In this pic the plug right below #10 is a machining port, so there is manifold air behind it, not coolant. There is a similar port on the front, but the CP3 blocks it in the line drawing. I would assume a similar access port was needed to machine the 24V head?