JOHNFAK

If you put your ear to the air filter ... Does the ticking seen quite loud ?

I have the stealth plateDownside is set screw can backout and no longer full fuel Nicer and cleaner though especially if you change programers a lot like me

If your not slipping the convertor and not getting high tranny temps your fine

Output ? Launching ?

NoNo reason to do a triple stack like me except I'm testing if I'm going to get rid of the CtS and go with TST. I'm just running the CtS for guages really right now ... Think in going to sell the tst tho.

Run your valves first

Thinking auto so my wife can drive when required and I do a lot if city driving and changing gears gets old. Though its been a while. What will the stock tranny's hold with a Modified VB only. Exhaust brake would be nice if I got back into towing an rv but no plans currently. Twins may come with me - depends on trade deal or sell outright. An 07 mega cab for $15k was what I was looking at .... 202k miles ..... But seen a couple nice 04-05 as well. Just concerned on I know about everything done to my truck .... Nothing to the new one .... Plus if I repaint mine and put a billet input I'm probably going to have a pretty awesome 2nd gen ~ 600hp .... Just a bit rough riding and outdated interior Decisions decisions

ok .... possibly looking to step up from my 2nd Gen to a 3rd gen. 04-07. Want to collect some info in case I do.1) Which years are best and why. Looking for a AUTO. Ideally 4WD but might have to settle for 2WD.2) Problems with years apart from sticking injectors.3) Anything to check for apart from normal ? How about pulling codes - just an OBDII scanner ?What mods done would indicate well looked after ...... eg normal LiftPump and guages ?? etcPlanning on checking for the following mainly.1) Codes and anything with transmission to indicate problem (fluid, clutch particulate) and any slipping under WOT.2) Blowby/Crank (where does it exit on these year trucks)3) Rust and Paint4) Joints, Tires, Brakes - normal wear or issues5) Check coolant and oil for any contamination. Check for any leaks.6) Rail Pressure - if I can {guages}.7) Steering ...... unsure how balanced and tight it should be compared to my semi-slop 2nd gen :)so on .....

Piggybacked on the map sensor Tst fuels Edge timing and guages Smarty CAN fueling and apps torque management

Can't see your sig on the phone. All you need to run a comp with auto is a modified valve body for higher line pressure . Vb, extra clutches on rebuild , apply lever and HD band strut etc are all that's done for around 500hp and under. Beyond that its billet shafts.

Just got mine back from being upgraded to comp. pretty hot and aggressive ... But in running it stacked with edge and smarty

I run a 3x disk , 150 injectors , twin turbos , smarty and juice stack ... No billet input shaft ....

Tranny is out now ? Have it built up to handle the hp ... Not a huge difference between a refresh and a built tranny it's mostly labor ...plus a $700 input ..,

Tst is fueling only Smarty will add timing on odd numbers Basically you can run it any way you want as only smarty is adding timing Should be an awesome stack

Nice .... Changed how ?

Well guys turned out the one I bought was wrong size ... so returned it and boughy this one on ebay. Radiator was cracked somwhere in the plastic ..... could have plastic expoxy'd it - but felt better just replacing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECTRA-PREMIUM-CU1553-Radiator-/310679943632?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4855f7b9d0&vxp=mtr Really one of the easiest swaps you can do. Basically requires channel locks, 8mm,10mm,1/2" sockets Disconnect batteries. 4 bolts on the top of radiator and remove +ve battery crossover harness. Pull washer fluid bottle. Pull overflow bottle. 4 bolts (2 each side) for fan shroud attached to radiator. Upper radiator hose with channel locks Pull passenger side battery and battery holder (optional - made easier to get to lower radiator hose) Lower radiator hose with channel locks. LIFT radiator directly out. Reverse procedure putting back in. ** I had to cut off the mounts at the bottom for allowing the radiator to align ..... which mean the radiator could tip out at the bottom. IN my case I just used a j-hook to tighten the radiator to frame against the lower radiator hose clamp .... works fine. ** - unsure why .... was a perfect fit on top ... but not on bottom .. All good ... no leaks and all new .... felt same quality and size as what was in the truck originally when I bought it ..... but that was ALSO a replacement OEM

Leaking where ? Pic?

Should .... Both same exhaust housing and T3 .... Pretty sure the exhaust flange is same

U suck 14.1 for me today on my auto Ready to help me g56 it ? Hahaha

~9k would be fair .... But shoot for 7500

Looks pretty normal to me Not touching compressor housing ?

For reference I saw very little difference moving from a super hx40 to a he351cw .... Except quicker spool and 50-100 deg egt drop.... Maybe

Any time your not locked up your going to create heat and have higher temps .... Worse in slow speeds as you get no airflow over the tranny cooler. Not much you can do about it apart from get a guage and drive normal .... It normally takes a lot of start and stop traffic in very high ambients for it to be a problem .... A short spike in temps isn't going to hurt

Damn that's pretty cool

^^^^ this Did he dyno before and after BHAF seems like an expensive dyno test. If your worried about it I'd add a BHAf as well as bigger injectors These trucks really should have come with ~150 hp larger injectors stock ..., and tranny to support