98whitelightnin

I did it with the truck off. I think I tightened it all the way, then backed off a turn or so.

I have a new box, 20k miles and tightening it up helped alot.

Welcome to the fam.:thumbup2:Mike, do we even have any female member?

Put a raptor 150 on my grandpa's truck 4 or so years ago. Used 1/2 lines and just added an inline pre-filter. Early last year it got loud on him and he called pureflow, they sent him a new pump first and may have even sent him return postage for the old one. He did fill out the warranty card that you have 30 days to fill out but all in all good experience. Everything he needed came with the pump except the inline filter we put in extra.

Just a 190 from napa. I will pm you.

My mpg's went up nearly 4mpg when I got my truck out of the 150-170 range and back to 190.

JordanHave you had any problems with death wobble since the level? Do you have offset balljoints?

Should be just fine but will still rub the upper control arms.

These 305/70/17 only rub at lock on the upper control arms. I dont have a leveling kit and my front ends sets lower than stock with the bumper/winch. I would like to add a leveling kit soon but dont want it nose high. Would really like new springs but I have only seen 2 1/2". Might try some 285/75/17's, they should be the same height as mine but just one inch narrower than might so about 34x11.50x17.

You should be able to do it with just dropping the sway bars, unhooking the track bar and pulling the shocks. I lived in an apartment complex once that had these same rules but I changes my power steering gearbox, blead my brakes and put new pads/rotors on the front. It was in Phoenix Az and the one time it did rain my parking spot looked like an oil spill. The wheels will fit fine.

I was thinking it was for the op with a 5speed truck.

I would go with 7x.009 or roughly 100 hp. You should be fine with these, My first injector upgrade was 75hp and I could hardly tell a difference and it turns out I already had some kind of upgrade injectors maybe 50 or 75hp. The next week I jumped to 150hp and could definatly tell a difference then but my mileage still suffered. Now im running some 7x.010 built by Lee at Contagious Diesel and they are great. My mileage is the best its ever been and plenty of power. http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/pages/Contagious-Diesel-Performance/147994165231032

Mine didnt start right away for the first time this morning. It fired and emediatly stopped, like it had air in the lines. Well when it did this the fass started doing its 25 second run and about 5 seconds into it I hit the key again and it fired right up as usual. Went to town and it cranked fine as always before, when I got home I crawel under the truck and all the fuel hoses were bone dry. Pump is dry, filter housing is dry too. I reached around the back of the head to the overflow and it was dry but kinda nasty were oil has been. I cant smell diesl at all and have no codes. It always started up great but recently has had a little stumble when I first crank it like its getting a little air. I have parked nose high and nose downhill both with no change.

Rv's are nice with a stick shift but do very little with a slip-o-matic.

I usually shine a flashlight on the mirror too to help see the line.

Smarty is a programmer, meaning you pull the program out of your computer and put smarty's in. They are excellent programmers but will only give you about 65 or so hp on a second gen dodge. They really shine down low and in the common rail dodges though. It will not be adjustable without pulling over, getting it out and plugging it in to the obd2 port and re-tuning. For the money, there are better options like edge or quadzilla. You can usually find an edge juice/attitude, gauges and all for that much in the classifieds section over on CF or you can get a comp for about $350+/-.

Its not bad, I did mine a few months back and there is a thread here somewhere with the socket sizes. Let me find it.http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3346-Help-replacing-rear-axle-hub-seal

Finally got a job back with the USPS and im in the market for another mail delivery vehicle. I test drove a 1999 2wd toyota tacoma yesterday. It was pretty clean for its age and only had 141k. I noticed when driving (got up to about 55) it had a noise coming from the rear. Sounded like WOW...WOW...WOW...WOW...WOW. It was pretty consistant with speed. I checked the axles and they were both about the same temp, just a little warm but I didnt drive it more than a few miles. Tires looked good but if I look at it again im gonna rotate tires and see if the noise moves.

Welcome to the Fam:thumbup2:

I got o-rings from cummins but they are a couple bucks a piece. I have heard of someone matching them up at a hardware store or something and being just a few pennies each.

It was about 70 last night with 97% humidity and I got a few more pics.

Some people do it to make the pump last longer because its not getting the heat and vibration from ther motor.

:moon:I will try to get a few readings while moving the next time I go somewhere.

I started it this morning and they were both 68.9 degrees, I drove 30 miles and parked and it looked like this. It was running great and idleing smooth as glass when I took this pic.

I just took it outside and it works good, just a little mark on the screen. Let me know:thumbup2: