SilverMoose

Could it possibly be not getting enough current? If you have multiple additional connections you could try setting up a switched buss bar that is controlled by a relay. That would give you plenty of current for multiple switched add on items. Just a thought L8tr D

Along with all the above, a roll of rebar tie wire works pretty good. Real easy to bend. My favorite is a small stick with good double sided tape. Without it that space would be full. L8tr D,

I don't know how many times I've dropped tools between the radiator & intercooler. Talk about trying someone's patients. How many times I've left stuff under the hood... only god knows. L8tr D

Was it a Dodge he screwed up? I hope not and can't tell by the pic. Even I know that is a major problem L8tr D

That is great to hear and am so glad you got rid of the surging. I know it's been bugging you. Amazing that something that seems so unconnected to a problem can actually be the problem. L8tr D

Thanks guys, I figured that but wanted to confirm my assumption. I will monitor my pressure and replace ball & spring if needed. L8rt D

Thanks guys appreciate the help. I'll keep an eye on it as I always do. I have another question that hopefully someone can answer. I know the bypass valve in VP44 opens up at 14psi. Does that extra fuel flow straight back to the tank or is it routed though the IP to aid in cooling. I think I know the answer but just curious " L8tr D

Hey guys I hope you can answer a simple (hopefully) question. Lately I've noticed my pressures dropping on my DDRP. I did some research and didn't realize there is the infamous ball and spring pressure relief in that model as well. So I stretched the spring out a 1/4 inch like most recommend and now my pressures are pretty high. At idle I'm around 24 psi and 17 at WOT. Is 24 psi too high for idle or is it OK? The ball looked to be in great shape unlike some of the deformed pics I've seen. Thanks in advance. D

What he said.

Glad to hear you got it figured out. L8tr D

@WiscoRedkneck you continue on with what you are doing and all will be fine. I'm not here to tell you how do it as you have a great start. I sure it will look great when you are done. Have a great & safe trip. I wish I had a cap for mine. Have fun sanding L8tr D

I like your thinking Surprisingly the work ain't all that bad but you have to enjoy it. Try hand blocking a 34 foot boat plug for 4 weeks. A little cap is nothing then L8tr D

as @JAG1 said, it looks like you really take car of your truck and want it to look its best. I applaude you fot that. The light weight filler you mentioned could very well be the gel caot sprayed in the mold when the cap was made. I've been working for a boat manufacturer for 7 years in the tooling department making new molds for our products (finally a topic I know something about on this forum). Fortunately for me I moved to the engineering dept so no more manual labor. All I get to do is program two big CNC routers. It looks to me that the gel coat is full of stress cracks. If I was to do what you are, I would remove as much of the gel coat as possible. You will never be able to get rid of the stress cracks. The will eventually come back. If the fiberglass is not cracked at all you have a good base to work with. If the glass is cracked that can be repaired. I would start with 40 grit and take all the gel coat off (or at least most of it). After 40 grit I would use some filler and 80 grit to smooth the surface leaving as little filler as possible. Then I woulld spay on tons of primer for fairing the surface (20 mils min). It may take a coulpe of sprays of primer to get a fair surface (I like to spray a min of 30 on our plugs). I would hand sand (block) from 80 grit up to high a grit as you want. I would probably go to 400 wet prior to paint. Using a tracer coat for fairing makes a huge difference for finding highs and lows. We use Dykem (a machinist fluid) thinned with about 10 parts of acetone. Wipe it on the surface with a rag and it works great. I've never used the black spray paint trick but that works good as well. Good luck and I hope this heps. L8tr d

Is your power steering fluid low? It can't hurt to ask even if its OK. L8tr D

Do you have a pump type brake bleeder? You could probably use that to test the system. I am assuming your hvac wasn't working while the motor was running. It sounds like you loosened up another line when you were working on it. L8tr D

Coolness. You are better than me. I spilled 1 drop

I'm not sure if you want to mess with that. One of the alignment adjustments is longitudinal in reference to the wheel vertical centerline (can't remember if it's camber or caster but think camber). I would think one wheel just needed more adjustment than the other. Those lines are probably increments for adjusting and not meant for each wheel to be on the same mark. Of course I could be completely wrong and hope someone can confirm or correct. L8tr D

@ItzReckless it's a pretty easy job putting in new solenoid & transducer. Just a little messy if you don't have a drain on tranny pan. I did mine a few months ago. Cascade has the best price on the solenoid i could find. Get the borg warner solenoid. L8tr D

No where near as deep as original. I can understand why one came out. L8tr D

Those are some real nice looking freeze plugs. I bet you would never have to worry about them blowing out. L8tr d

But still 400k is something to be proud of and you have certainly earned the bragging rights. L8tr D

Congrats @dripley. I only have 320k miles to catch you. Are there any current posters out there with that mileage or is the chicken man the king. Way to go L8tr D

yeah what he said. L8tr D

Jack up rear end and turn driveshaft. Count how many turns for 1 complete revolution of tire. Instant gear ratio confirmation. L8tr D

As @Dieselfuture said, it can be difficult to remove. I tried to get mine off to fix one of the lights and gave up. I couldn't get the clips free. I'm sure more patience than I had at that time and it will come off easy. L8tr D