SilverMoose

I will have to add my pic after I put the angle on it today. I have a nice thick piece of 1" angle 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick from my old table saw fence rail. I knew I would use it someday.

Once again @W-T you did a fantastic write up. I am very impressed with your attention to detail. I can only hope some of it rubs off on me. You better be careful with your great and detailed posts...we are going to expect this from now on L8tr D

If I remember correctly (if being key word) I do think the lift pump mounting bolts do need to be sealed to prevent leakage. L8tr D

I just got the muffler delete and loving it. I agree with @KATOOM about the sound. Got some drone when under load but nice when cruising. I'm going try strapping a piece of angle to the pipe to help with drone. Of course it's been a while since having a non stock exhaust (and my first diesel) so it could all be as it should be. I now fear my mileage will suffer cause I want to hear it. I'm noticing my TPS on OBDlink is higher than my normal habit. There was a post a while ago about controlling drone but haven't found it yet. L8tr D

Thanks guys, I appreciate all your responses. I will update when I get back later. L8tr D

Going to head to a local muffler shop tomorrow to get either the muffler or resonator taken off my stock system. I assume it would be a better idea to delete the muffler and keep the resonator. I would appreciate some input on which to do and has anyone done this. I just want to get a little more sound out of my truck but not have too much in cab drone. A friend did both and the sound is nice. But the best part is the cost. They only charged him 80 bucks to do both plus a chrome tip. Can't even get a muffler delete pipe online for that price. Thanks in advance. L8tr D

I stand corrected and figured that after postings. Thx L8tr D I still have much to learn

You're going to have to sooner or later. If it gives you piece of mind then that is worth more than the cost of a new one. Definitely run TCW3 no matter what you decide L8tr D

The OBDlink can monitor the TPS. That would tell you if it is jumping around. L8tr D

L8tr D

@Marcus2000monster enjoy the BVI's. Went there in 01 for a sailing charter. Have a few painkillers for me. L8tr D

I can see why. Lookin good. Or did you mean you got the stares L8tr D

My best mileage so far is 19.4. Obviously no highway. I typically average 18. I would guesstimate almost 17 highway. I drive like a dead grandma...god rest her sole L8tr D

Add that to the list. L8tr D

What gears do you have? If 4:10's your not too bad. How the go pedal is used makes a big difference. L8tr D

Right next to the knee pads

Excuse my ignorance but those turbos are quite different in size. I assume later models got the larger? If so is there a reason? I still have lots to learn but this site has a tremendous wealth of information. L8tr D

It's a 22ohm 1 watt resistor and my buck is set to 9.5 volts. I think you could probably just use the adjustable buck and lower the voltage til the lights turned off then raise it 0.5 volts. Leave the little buck in there and save a bunch of time. L8tr D

Sorry for the delay I finally got my lights modified and put back together. I will try to keep this short and to the point. First off, these are the lights I got. Most other similar lights I assume are made in the same Chinese factory. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ATPDGS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The LED's kept going out on me after about a month. After my 4 set, (all compliments of Amazon) I decided to dissect a set to see what was happening. And this is what the problem was The lights has a DC Buck in them to control the voltage (and I assume current as well) to the LED's. I'm assuming the voltage our trucks can put out (especially during the cooler months) led to the Bucks frying. I did a little searching on Amazon and discovered this adjustable Buck. It's very easy to adjust and nice and small. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C0KL1OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I determined the forward voltage and current for each LED. They were connected in 3 sets of 3 in series and kept that arrangement. I set the output of the new Buck to just above the voltage of 3 of the LED's and computed what resistor was needed for each set of 3. A 1/8 watt was needed and I used a 1 watt to reduce chances of heat issues. I hope this helps if you ever have the problem I did. L8tr D

Very nice L8tr D

Those were the days... when you could get to everything under the hood easily L8tr D

They do look just like the ones I got. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ATPDGS8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 L8tr D

Interesting, I've never had that issue. I would like one of those files to test (not that I doubt you). L8tr D

I am finishing them up today and will let you know after that.