Rogan

My boost leak tool... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4284&d=1342802164 From the Galaxy S3

so, yeah. It's been fine now, for the past day or so.. oh well..

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4283&d=1342801591 From the Galaxy S3

We should make a automotive air freshener that smells like Mesquite smoke

My 01 was like that.. Actually, it would prime up to 15psi.. Then I'd start it, and idling, it would slowly drop to 0psi, over the course of about 10-15 sec. It wasnt the filter in the canister. I replaced that. Then I dropped the tank, and cleaned the sock. Bingo! Been okay, for the past 1.5 yrs.

Mine (on the block) is a Carter, like his. It does decent.. 17psi no load, but drops to 10-ish under heavy load.. :nono:So I try not to do that, as much as possible.

Jordan is always so punctual..

Looks like an OE-style replacement, to me.. And crusty.

^^ What Sled said.. I've been surprised often at how easy something comes apart, even when it looks like it's gonna crumble or twist in half..

If you're anything like me, you ain't scared to eat. And meat is a large importance in that. I've made my own jerky for years. Last year, I started smoking meat and it's become my hobby and greater enjoyments in life.. I don't have a high dollar smoker, but it serve the purpose (for now.) This is my 3rd one. First one was 2 clay pots, a hot plate, and a Weber grill grate. Works quite well, but hot plates are getting weaker and more scarce. My current go-to smoker is a Char-Griller with woodbox attachment. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=558550&stc=1&d=1289415338 It's not the best, but is a great 'both-worlds' grill setup. I've done a couple mods to it to make it a 'better' smoker, and a few more are slated. So far, I've reconfigured the woodbox's fire pit design and height. Also, a water heater blanket addition to help retain and regulate heat stability. This weekend, I'll be extending the 3" dia. chimney's inner length to grate-level, rather than it's factory 1" depth into the lid. The factory configuration lets out too much heat and smoke, too quickly. After that, I'll be adding woodstove rope sealing gasket to the lid section, again to help retain smoke and heat that otherwise escapes from everywhere. Wood of choice: mesquite or apple. Apple is everywhere, here, beings that there are hundreds of apple orchards in the immediate are. Mesquite is not native here, and obviously doesn't grow in this part of the country. So I either have relatives ship me mesquite wood from Texas, or I buy bulk chunk bags, which isn't cheap here. so, if any of you are into smoking meat, let's converse/share

Sorta... - - - Updated - - - It did it first thing this morning, too.. Like 77*F, on the way to work. It's been mega-hot here lately (95*-103*F) during the day, ind dipping into the mid 70s at night.

Hellzyeah, John!I might smoke some tuna this weekend..

The weird part, mike, is that the module still works, programmer-wise. It's just the display.. I've reseated the two connectors (one to the module, one to the monitor) and the issue is still there. I told the guy that's getting my truck, and he was cool with it. Still, I feel kinda bad about it. It's just how crap seems to work for me; perfect timing as always.For $330, one can get the 'new' CTS monitor that works on the Juice module. Problem is, you kinda need the monitor to make setting changes. There's no panel button thingy like the Edge Comp.

yeah.. I know you didn't. not consciously, anyway LOLThe thing that pisses me off most, though, is that Ive had this for over a year. No real issues (aside from the FP gauge not reading properly) with it at all. the DAY I go to trade the truck in, SHAZAM! It quit working..

Great/// kick me in the balls again, mike.. ;)

Ok, so yesterday (of all days), I get in the truck after work. Fire it up, glance at the Attitude monitor, see oil pressure readings, and roll out of the parking lot. I get about 500yds down the road when I glance to the monitor to see the screen completely pixeled.. IOW, every LCD pixel was on; the screen was solid black.I pulled over, cycled the ignition, but this time nothing... at all.. only the back illumination and buttons lit up. the screen completely blank. I shut the truck back off, unplugged/replugged the control box, and checked the green connector for the monitor.Still same thing.. illumination and blank screen.I tried touching the power-level arrows on the way home, and it works as normal, you just can't see anything. Got home, shut the truck off, and the turbo timer worked fine. Tapped the brake pedal and got out. An hour or two later, I went out and turned the key on to check the J/A screen.. still blank.This morning, I get in the truck to go to work, BOOM! screen works now.. Well, it did for about 30-45 seconds, then went back to full pixelation..I'm at a loss.

is your odometer digital? does it dim out when you turn your parking lights on?

1. I'm sure they dont help, but are a necessity. 60psi front, 80psi rear when towing. when not, I drop the rears to 60. 2. I'd like to see #s on how much drag coefficient is affected by a leveling kit. Curiosity. 3. It doesn't really matter what I run it on. #2 (tow), to #5 (extreme) matters none. I can and do resist the power usage. 4. I've been over the rotating assemblies many time, for just that reason. No dragging that I can find. 5. This is my #1 concern, and one I've been chasing for a week or so. I think this is where it resides.. At least a majority of the poor fuel economy, anyway. I agree on the abnormal numbers. It's definitely decrease over the past 8-10 months.. And I don't have Frank's shoes. I'm a lot like you.. slow and easy. well, driving-wise, anyway..

AC is fixed, (low 134a) vents are fixed (vacuum leak) and brakes replaced. He's really doing all he can to seal the deal LOL Gotta give him props, for sure. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4277&d=1342194785 - - - Updated - - - so, truck has 4.10s and a manual front axle cable disconnect. He's fixed everything that I was concerned about, sans rust, but it's not "that" bad. He's throwing in a CB, an LED low profile strobe (seen in above picture), and a couple other odds/ends. Yes, I'll be stepping into an older, less advanced truck. But It's more about necessity, as I'll soon be towing a lot more than I currently am. And if I step up to a gooseneck trailer (like I've been considering) then this will make it a little better, IMO.. don't hate me mike ;)

woohoo! DW, I got 14.02MPG with yesterday's fill-up! That's the best I've had in awhile! LOL

I agree: dash lights (or lack there of) and stereo install are most-likely related.

I just replaced the steering rack in my friend's 2002 1500 4WD. It was actually quite and easy swap. It took me about 2hrs to get the old one out, due to just figuring out how/what all comes apart, and the power steering lines with their odd sizes :shakehead: The new one went in like buttah.. About 20 minutes and I had the new one in, all connected, and refilling the reservoir. I did the swap using jack-stands, a floor jack, and hand tools. If I had to do it again, I could probably knock it out in less than an hour, start to finish. I can't remember all the socket sizes, but, it basically went like this: [*] ***SAFETY FIRST!*** [*]Chock rear wheels, set e-brake [*]Jack up and support entire front end. [*]Remove tires/wheels [*]19 or 21mm socket loosened the Ny-lock retaining nuts on both OTREs [*]Using a small hammer, tap upward on the bottom of the OTREs to release them from the knuckles (came out easy!) [*]Center steering wheel [*]Remove 13mm bolt, separating the steering column from the rack's stub input shaft [*]Tap the collar up and off the stub axle [*]Remove the pressure and return lines from the rack. [*]These must be metric, as I didn't have all my tools with me, nor line-wrenches... Top one (Return) is largest, being bigger than 19mm, but smaller than 13/16".. Cresent wrench worked just fine, but take time and care not to destroy the fitting by not having the wrench tight enough. [*]I just got it loose with the crescent wrench, then used the 13/16" to finish backing it out. [*]Bottom one (pressure side) I also used the crescent to loosen, then a 19mm to finish backing it out. [*]Remove two 23mm bolts from cross-member through the rack mounts (these are about 6-8" long, btw) [*]may need a large (like 2" or so) wrench, or I used a 12" pipe wrench to hold the threaded rack bushings from spinning. [*]Support the rack, as these are the only two bolts supporting it [*]With everything disconnected, slide the rack assembly to the driver's side, enough to allow the right OTRE to clear the pass. side knuckle, and lower it down. Slide the rack assembly to the right, now, to clear the driver's side, and lower out of the truck. [*]Take two large flat-tipped screwdrivers, and work the steel-sleeved bushings and rubber isolators out of the old rack. [*]Insert bushings and sleeved into new rack, ensuring you have them oriented correctly. [*]I cleaned them well, and tapped them into place with a rubber mallet [*]install new OTREs, or if your old ones are still in great shape, remove them from the old rack and install them onto the new one. [*]It may be wise to count the treads to where they currently reside, so you can install them onto the new rack in roughly the same location. [*]Don't forget the lock/jam nuts! [*]Reverse order to re-install. [*]Refill the PS reservoir with appropriate fluid. I think it holds 2.7 pints, so just about 1.5 QT. Start the truck, SLOWLY work the steering from lock to lock a few times, and take your time. Check fluid level, top off as needed. [*] Get a front-end alignment asap. And check your fluid after a day or so, top off as needed.

He stated it only does it on initial startup, or if it's been sitting for extended period of time. Once it engages, there are no more instances. He also stated that he approached the rebuilder about it, and was informed that "that is normal for what was done; nothing to worry about." The fluid is clean and full.

Edge wants $150 to fix my Juice's fuel pressure circuit.. Nah, I'll pass.

Russ, I use carts with the same 10" tires to haul 650 pound moon bounces on, for my business. I constantly have to fix flats. I can do the wheel-halves by hand, but I do have (mostly) total control over both hands (nerve damage in left arm from broken neck in '03.) The no-flat replacements are too expensive ($25-30) and the tubed ones are getting harder to come by, so it seems. I've stepped one of my carts up to the 13" tire assembly (http://www.harborfreight.com/13-inch-x-5-inch-heavy-duty-pneumatic-tire-37767.html) and this actually seems to help. As for the axle nut issue, I had one cart that lost an axle nut, so I drilled a 1/8" hole (after measuring the appropriate location) slid the wheel assembly on, followed by a flat washer, then a cotter pin.