Rogan

I had a '91 525i, just sold it earlier this year.. It was a turd-bucket, though.. I loved my '85 E30 with M14 swap, however.. it was like a go-cart with a roof!

the thing that sucks with this one, though, is you have to switch a button back/forth for inside/outside readings, rather than both displayed at the same time...

I don't have a dog in this fight, mostly due to just lack of knowledge.

same here

rwall@mopar1973man.com wow! 6 gallons. I'll need a bigger drain bucket..

@ Delano - got a pic of your truck (bigger one) with the 35s? I'm kinda curious, as I'm coming up on needing new tires.. Even though I'll most likely go with 235s again.. /threadjack@Mike - what's the coolant capacity of the dodge?

It's a 1.5L non-vtec. It doesn't go fast enough to make 'em stick (i used to own a '96 civic CX hatch with the same 1.5L.. )

that's still a big injector, inducing a lot of heat, for a stock turbo..

On the old Garrett T3s, as well as the IHI turbos (in the gas-world), we'd get some small cracks around and sometimes 'through' the wastegate flapper section of the housing. Most were mere hairline ones, and didn't really affect anything of significance. No, wonce they spread, and were wide enough to allow a fingernail to stick in the cracks, then it was time to replace (i.e.: upgrade ;) )

that's what it sounds like, to me..

yeah, something seems odd. you should be able to get the EGTs to climb north of 800*F. does it stop solid at 800?

flood the holes.

sig says Edge Comp.. what's the hp on those 7x.010s? Am I mistaken in thinking those are about 140hp sticks??

I've bought TONS of headlights off Rimi, when he was only on ebay. His lights are off-brand, but really good quality. Most (well, every pair I've gotten from him) are glass lenses, with metal housings (headlights), not that raggedy plastic. He's really good guy, customer service is great. I ordered 4 pair of the 200mm Euros, once, and one bulb arrived shattered. I sent him an email, and had a replacement that same week. He's got these, too, for $14pr http://rimiusa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35&products_id=22

no problem. Nope, no leaks. And we've been in some downpours with it. Matter of fact, last weekend. If you look at the outside picture, you'll see that the floor comes up the walls about 4 inches or so.. It's like that all the way around, and thank goodness. We were sorta down this draw (only place we could really set it up), and it come a turd-floater of a rain.. water rushed down the hill, and hit the tent, I'd say at about 1" deep.. It just rolled around and under the tent. There's a roof rainfly, as well as a door fly. We didn't have the door-fly on, but the "windows" were closed. And the doors are constructed in such a fashion, that when closed, there's a flap that covers the edges so no water runs down the front and into the door-jambs. --edit-- Here's mine, in the back of the picture, just right of the smoke plume... this is from the left side, facing.. the closest person in a chair is about 5' away from it, just to give some perspective.

I have an awesome Coleman 9 person tent. It was ~ $100 or so, and takes my wife (not mechanically inclined) and I (mechanically inclined) about 20 minutes to set up and move in.. It will fit (2) Queen-sized air mattresses, with plenty of room to spare, for even the 100lb dog's bed, and a place to stand/change, including luggage bags. And it's about 6.5' high, so no need for average height people to bend over.. Let me see if I can find it real quick... - - - Updated - - - Found it. Coleman Hampton. These pics aren't mine, but give you a great idea of how big it is.. Ok, so it's went up in price.. $295, but shop around. It literally has 6 vertical poles that slip into hooks 2 "X" poles that slip through sewn channels in the roof 1 flex pole that goes front to back (again, slips into hooks 4 flexible poles for the hinged doors (about 30 secs per door assembly) and a rain fly.. I've been known to have it up by myself in under 10minutes, for fear of impending rain storm..

my TLR-1s tactical light for my handgun is tiny.. roughly .75" dia. by 2" long. It uses a camera-style 3v and single LED. It is bright as hell, and I've not replaced the battery in a couple years. I looked at it this weekend while cleaning the weapon, and no signs of corrosion on it.. It's a beasty little light.

If you're looking for inexpensive gauges, also check out ProSport Gauges. I've ran them and had no issues. Their CS is really good, as well. http://prosportgauges.com/

I get what you're saying, but I've had opposite luck, to be honest. As a matter of fact, That little 3AAA 5LED flashlight burned for 2 nights in a row, from about 8pm, to around 7am each night, on the same set of batteries it had in it, from who knows how long ago.. It still works like a champ, even after that, with the same batteries. Must be Plutonium... And, it's push-button ;)

I ran across a deal on the yellow Erickson 2"x15' ones, caj, back in January. I bought 20 of them for $8 each in a business blowout. They're normally around $20ea.Also got 6 of the Ratchet-Strap 4"x30' ones for $15ea. (normally $50-60ea).

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4218&d=1340800262

In my business, I go through a lot of ratchet straps. I've found that over the past couple of years, the 'home-grade' RS's have gotten much, much cheaper in quality.HD has decent RSs. I prefer to use the Quickloader straps, usually 1.25" wide, or the 1.5" ones. They seem to resist abrasions fairly well. Of course, they're $25-30 ea. 1500lb strength. But I'd bet that scooter is worth a little more than $50 worth of straps ;)

here's what I used last weekend, camping. Inside the tent, it worked awesome. While not in the tent, I sat it at the outside entrance to the tent. It lit up about 10ft radius. Used a white milk jug and an LED flashlight. You can also use the translucent jugs, and they light up great, too, provided you fill them with water. The white jugs do not need the water. I also placed sidewalk solar lights at each tether stake for the tent, so the kiddos didn't trip over the strings or stakes.

If it comes down to it, buy a non-plugin style, remove your plugin style, hack off the plugs from the original one, solder/heat-shrink the plugs onto the new one, install, smile.

I used an Open Source tuning software application when I built my Subaru WRX beast. It was a steep learning curve, but once you got the hang of it, and what to look for, it was quite easy to make corrections and/or tweaks.John, I know there was some controversy in the Subaru world with the number of flashes of the ECU before you'd brick it. Granted, that number was quite high (1000s), is there any (same) concern with the Cummins ECM? I probably flashed my ECU hundreds of times by 3rd gear WOT pull logs, tweaking the maps, re-flashing, repeat, but I went from 265awhp/239tq on first flash, to over 500awhp/518tq when I was finished, with no other mechanical mods, only map table tweaks. Granted, this was a fully built stroker motor (2.5L block, knife-edged crank, Cosworth oil pump, chromoly h-beam rods,, Arias 9.6:1 coated pistons, 980cc injectors, 5-angle valve-job, undercut stems, flowed 2.0L heads, Garrett GT35R, 50mm EWG, 50mm BOV, etc., that I built to produce those kinds of numbers.Oh, and I DD'd this WRX 135mi/day, and still got 28mpg avg.