Rogan

I'd question the water pump.. Mk4s (factory WP) used a composite impeller. Most aftermarket units (i.e. from www.germanautoparts.com) have the steel impellers. The composite one are known to separate from the shaft and not spin at full bore, often eventually crumbling to bits and then you've got bigger problems. when was the last WP/tbelt swap?

awesome, bill! I just wished these had the side-marker/turn indicator LEDs in them.. but for a sub-$200 set of power/heated mirrors, I guess I really can't complain ;)

cool, let us know --- Update to the previous post... From this morning: That's some pretty good tech support, right there..

yes please. find out how much and if he wants to sell it.

This is true.. I run the RP in my 5600 and 241HD. I haven't changed the fluids in the diffs to RP yet.. It is pricey.

[h=2][/h]

Somewhere on here, I posted the info from Royal Purple (an email from their Tech Sppt) about what to use, should you want to go with their stuff. I'm sure the Amsoil guy on here can chime in, as well

dobie, i did leave that part out, but you're EXACTLY right. Definitely seems WAY WORSE when it's colder (sub 60*F) or rainy/humid outside. I should probably go ahead and order one before it leaves me sitting... Or worse, while towing..

Welcome to the family

most likely, the single axle is either a 3500# axle, or a 5000# axle (3500# usually 5x4.5 bolt pattern, 5000# axle has 6 or 8 lug..)Outside of that, I can't really recommend/help any with the specifics of building/modifying one..

I didn't get a pick of that, and it's raining right now, so I'll do that later.. But basically, my DE 5" is a 4" downpipe. Where if turns under the floorboard, it goes back about 6", then the adapter from 4" to 5" is there, then it's 5" the rest of the way. The 5" goes over the trans cross-member, etc.

yes patience, ball joint press, torch (possibly), hub press tool, BFH, normal socket set, did I mention torch? ;) I used MOOG from RockAuto.com.. cheapest price i could find.

you all make me sick... I'd be tickled pink if I could get 20.. Or 15..

I'll check that out in the morning, as I an not really sure.. I know 2-3, it doesn't really seem to make a difference. Yeah, I think this is the case..

Professional MW3 player, don't forget. ;) _______________________________________ Me: Farmboy (Alfalfa, horses, cattle, sheep) on about 40,000 ac. in SE New Mexico and W. Texas. Army (86-94) M1A1 (19K), M60A3 (19E) After that, 988 Cat operator, Terex MT4400AC, Euclid R-50 After that, Electronics Technology training, then IT field since then.. And I'm bored and hate it. Sr. Systems Administrator (Linux and Windows Ent. Server), Oracle DBA

I "think" I've asked this before, but I can't remember..For about a year now, my truck will have a 'surging' feeling under light/part throttle. This is very noticable as of lately, seems to be getting worse over time. no codes.If I'm in 6th, at 50-60mph, you can really feel it, as well as hear it in the turbo-whistle..If I set the cruise, it stops doing it.This leads me to believe it's the TPS, but I am unsure..I don't want to make a $180-200 guess.

Damn.. ok, guess they'll stay in the box for awhile longer then

Here's a few.. Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

Sam, I'll get some pics of mine after work (in about an hour..)

yeah, but his sig shows an Edge Comp, as well..Ive got a set of BD150s in the garage, but haven't put them in for fear of extreme EGTs with the stock HX35 and my Edge Juice.. And I tow often..

Wait.. you're running a 125-150hp injector on the stock HX35, and your EGTs don't go through the roof? WTF?

Awesome pics! Thanks for sharing Did you bungee? lol

Fill out your signature with your truck info, so it's easier for us to answer some questions ;)As for the portapower: no. The crossmember (at least on a 2gen) sits in wedges. take the bolts out after supporting/lifting the trans (also remove the two trans mount nuts) and jack the trans up to the floor. Then take a hammer and knock the crossmember up then backward. It'll fall out.If it's a 4x4, drop the tcase first (driveshafts, linkages, vacuum lines, 6 nuts on mating point, etc.)The motor mounts will support the engine. I also jack up the front of the motor to pitch the trans downward to access everything. unbolt the trans from the midplate, leaving the midplate, starter, etc., bolted to the engine.Also, disconnect the exhaust to allow the engine to tilt downward in the back. If your exhaust wont come apart underneath, two bolts takes the downpipe from the turbo. I believe they're 16mm?Access to the TC bolts/flywheel is found on the pass. side of the engine, remove the tin dust cover.

176k on the OE junx.But I'm with Apache... I don't see how Mikie went that far on the OEs with the roads he drives on..

How? I'd like to get an SG2, but that's $150+ I don't have spare.