
Everything posted by Rogan
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Turbo cut out question
I was thinking you had a Super B, for some reason.. The silver bullet is a 66/74/14, so that wouldn't work.Nevermind, I'll shut up now. I've got 100 different things going on in my head, and I'm starting to even confuse myself
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Turbo cut out question
still have the stock HX35? Twin it! It'll tow like hell, get better economy, and have low-end grunt.and 24mpg avg would be a crock of shiz.. same guy told you it would light at 1200, remember?
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Turbo cut out question
I concur (as previously stated.) I was also saying about a boost leak, as I've experienced a similar issue as you describe, where I had a slightly loose clamp, and would only show itself in high load/high boost situations (such as 4th/5th gear). Finally, the silicone coupler gave way, truck fell on it's face (pulling ~13Klb at the time, 3rd gear, accelerating from a stoplight.. I limped it to a parking lot, and fixed the coupler. Ironically, my surgy/burpy feeling went away after that, as well. I ended up making a boot leak tester that I could pressurize the entire intake system (from turbo to intake manifold and throw 40psi air from my shop compressor (at a regulated increase rate) to check for leaks. you can make something from Lowes parts and have about 10-12$ in it, and it be a viable tool to retain.
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Turbo cut out question
Can you 'video' the issue?
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Turbo cut out question
That should truly light around 1900-2000rpm. Also, I don't think that setup works well for towing. Everyone I know/read about that runs the II SB + 200hp (or bigger sticks) example: These types of results seem fairly common, from what I can tell. As to the 'cutting out' feeling you're experiencing, do you have boost and fuel pressure gauges? If so, any abnormalities observed in their readings? Almost sound as though you could have a boost leak somewhere..
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My ball joint fiasco...
I also went with MOOGs from Rockauto.com, as well as hub bearings. I coated the hell out of the mating surfaces with Bostik pure nickel anti-sieze.
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A new (to me) DD
because if you don't know what you're doing, they're very expensive to fix. Case in point: My buddy has (3) Land Rover Discovery IIs, all are V8s. A head gasket job is $2400. The gaskets set is like $210. Takes us about 6-7hrs to knock 'em out for under $250. The average "Joe" who bought a LR/RR in the first place, probably doesn't know which end of the screwdriver to hold.My dad (rest his soul) always said to me "The more money a man spends on frivolous crap, the dumber he gets, and the more he'll spend."Then they get to a point where they buy something new, or sell cheap because they don't feel the shop's price to fix something is worth the value of the old vehicle. So I buy cheap, fix the little crap, and keep trucking! :)Yay, me.
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Dorkweeds Wood.............................PG
^ true. I've got wood stacked that's been split for 2 yrs now, and will sometimes push water out the end when I throw it on the coals.. I have a Tremont forced-air insert, and love it. I just wished it was a little bigger, as I have to cut/split to no longer than about 20" long and no more than about 6-8" diameter, else it won't fit through the door :banghead: --- Update to the previous post... ...and oak burns way hotter, longer.. just how she likes it..
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A new (to me) DD
OMFG Jordan, that sig GIF is the greatest!! LOL I literally LOL'd, and had to get a co-worker to look at it! EPIC.As for the RR, thanks. It didn't come without any of the typical Euro 12-volt gremlins, but they're not detrimental, and I'll get around to fixing them, when I can.
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Christmas In March
looks kinda like a Tremont, but the handles don't..
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A new (to me) DD
I live about 8mi from work, and I've been commuting in the Cummins. I know it's a little hard on it, especially in winter, as the truck never gets 'warm' due to the short stints. And, my fuel economy has dropped significantly in the past couple of months (from 14-15, down to 9-12).. I've got no explanation why, either.. So, I bought a "beater" from a good friend of mine. Now, for some reason, everyone around here thinks I've gotten a raise, or make way more money than I actually do Here's what $2000 got me.. 1997 Range Rover 4.6HSE V8 w/BMW ZF 5spd Automatic 130,450mi AWD Beluga Black Pearl 18" Indigo Blue Alloys Power everything Air-ride Suspension Craptastic fuel economy (avg 11-12mpg city, 15 hwy) New: $66,650 + $8100 Cold-Weather Package. With all other options (heated windshield, Harmon/Kardon audio, etc., Window Sticker shows $79,394 That's absolutely insane, especially 15 yrs ago.. :banghead:
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Dorkweeds Wood.............................PG
nice!I've got tons of red oak here. I've still got 1/2 truck load I've yet to unload.. maybe this weekend I'll get around to it; I've been so friggin busy at work.
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1st Gen Hood Stack Build
Very good job! It's amazing how much steel was used just to make a v-band flange!
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Injectors
My truck (stock inj., stock turbo, stock VP, 5" TBE, BHAF, Edge Juice w/Attitude), on a good day, will tickle 18mpg highway. I do about 90% city driving, and I hand-calc about 11-12mpg with a 6spd. No idea why, as it doesn't matter if my Edge is in Economy mode (1), or Tow mode (2) or Race (4).. It doesn't seem to vary. And I rarely turn over 2000prm..
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Injectors
Did you, at least, get a good interest rate?
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rear brakes locking up
dont forget to clean the hell out of the drum, or replace it.
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Wood Stove Guys..............Come Here, Please
weed, This is what I have (Tremont Wood Stove Insert.) It is thermostatically controlled fans (2) and adjustable fan speed. I have a non-open-floorplan 2 story Cape Cod (2500sqft). Without the woodstove, My electric bill (heating) is about $350-450/mo. Using this, my electric bill drops to around $200/mo. I also installed ceiling fans (one in the same room, one in the Fourier.) This helps circulate the air, and will keep the downstairs at about 72-75*F with some good seasoned Oak. Upstairs will hover in the 70-72 range. The electric heater will kick on maybe 4 times a day, instead of the 15-20 times, as before. I cut/pick up my own firewood from various locations, so all it costs me (usually) is fuel and time.
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Recommendations on the best injector for my 1989 4bt
Odd to see someone else with a Barracuda. Mom has an all original '70 AAR 340-6/4(she bought it new) with like 35-40k mi on it. I had a canary yellow '72 'cuda 318ci. loved it! --- Update to the previous post... This ^^ is your best option. As for "available options/sizes", it's all in where you want to go with it. I ASSuME that the 4BT (ive never had my hands on one) has the same style p-pump and such.. maybe a fuel plate and boost increase would be sufficient, for the time being? I know on my 6BT, I first did a 3k governor spring kit, a #10 fuel plate, and a boost elbow (35psi) and the truck came alive.. A lot..
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Block Markings
Here. per Tapatalk on my EVO
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Block Markings
should be about the same spot on the block..
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Check your man card here.
don't sugar-coat it, dorkweed! LOLsay what you mean
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Cummins Swaps
dude.... THAT... is sickness!!
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Warning gauges and speedometer??
glad you got it fixed.Just for noted causes, the plug on the ABS computer (driver's side inner fender, btwn battery and firewall) that is closest to the battery, if unplugged, will cause the same symptoms.
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Road Ripper 3000, experience?
that's perfect!
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Check your man card here.
thanks! I also cut my teeth on those, as well as Accept, Scorpions, Krokus, Jefferson Airplane, etc ;)