dripley

It will definitely help going up the hill but coming down is a different story. Even with my 6 speed I dont get alot engine braking with a load on the truck. My 5th wheel weighs 15k and it will push right thru motor on a 6% grade. I always tried to tackled them at 30 mph because of that, pre exhaust that is.

The 4:10's will help with the big tires. The engine is working harder to turn those vs the oe size. But it is an expensive swap.

They are not that difficult to put back on. They pretty much can only go on one way. I had take those same 3 off individually when changed my head gasket. Whats the reason for removal? Dont loose any of the blocks or clamps. I had to replace some. The screws, metal clamps and the blue blocks were 7 or 8 bucks apiece from Cummins.

It could a bit less I very seldom get run a full tank in town. The mix I am getting now is 17 or so 60% highway and 40% intown driving. I am definitely not complaining.

You cant beat zn exhaust brake for hills. But you will need some tranny for the auto. The TC needs to be locked while using it. Exactly what you need I would to defer to the more knowledgeable on the subject.

I het about 14 around town with stop and go driving grossing about 7500. Not unhappy with this. My 96 had a V10 in it and got about 7 mpg.

I see you. Guy on back left. Did not know you used to be that nimble. That qualifies as wreck. They appear to have used some bailing in the repair, but I cant find the duct tape.

I dont see any on mine and my lift bracket is not installed.

They are on top of the intake cover for the most part. There also some brackets that hold 2 sets of 3 going to the VP. Clamps with blu blocks. These are all very obvious unless I am missing something.

I would have to read some more to see if me and the heard have been personally insulted or not. I will have my machine call you rmachine at a later date.

It does not sounfd good for the pump. Here ismsome info for a little testing before condemning it. The hot is a good one to perform. Bluechipdiesel.com trouble shooting. Having trouble posting the link, but info is there on his site.

Were the old codes ever cleared to see if they come back? The truck should start without lift running unless something is preventing the fuel from being pulled out of the tank. Mine still ran and drove after 2 seperate lift pump failures. Mine is an Air Dog but them and FASS are not that much different.

My 02's seatbelt will extend at any time, key on or off. And a new to me latch stopped my searbelt light from illuminating. I have never noticed the belt lock on deceleration but dont believe I pay that much attention to it. I do know on some bumpy that will lock as I seem to move around more in the seat on those type of roads.

It could be any of the things you mentioned or all of the things you mention. The first thing you ought to do is to try and get the trouble codes. Most auto parts stores can put a scanner on it and tell you what they are. We will all be guessing without them. We could still be guessing with them but it is a good starting point. Welcome to a fellow N Carolinian. Built a Chick-fil-a there in Eizabeth City about 8 years ago. My truck and trailer ready to go home after completion.

I bought one for mine about 4 years ago from Advance Auto, Standard motor products I think. Still works fine. None of the box stores make them, they just sell someone elses products. Sometimes in boxes with their name on them

Me and the chickens know nothing about it either.

Thanks guys, @Haggar and @Mopar1973Man. Those gauges fuzzle my brain sometimes. But I have managed not add anything to the high pressure side of mine or the wifes car. Matter fact I rebuilt both hers and mine. Mine the summer before last and her Saturn last summer. Both have held up pretty well except for mine warming a little. Mine by far was the easiest and cheapest. Her little car cost almost twice as much as mine fo the parts. And getting to some of the parts was no fun.

Welcome back. I hope things are better for you now out that way. Though what I read sounds like it will be a while before anything is even close to normal.

The gauges are HF. Heard they are not the greatest so they could be the problem. But thinking back I am pretty sure I had the gauge valves open along with the the valves on the hi and lines. Had the yellow hose connected to a refrigerant can and that valve off. I think I will have to start over this coming weekend. Now to go to my corner.

You're a memeber of the Board. Pretty prestigious. Maybe @Mopar1973Man can bump you to Titanium, if you can find your hammer.

Itmis not as bad as you think. I did mine several years back using @Mopar1973Man article. Replaced the the dash and rebuilt the HVAC box too. I spent 3 days as I remeber. But it could be done 1.5 or 2 days easy. I took a lot of breaks. Plus I dont get in a big hurry either when in unfamiliar territory.

Well I have one. Reckon it will hurt anything for a few days? If so I might have to take with me and do it at the job. The guest IBMobile thru me off a bit.

The worst place is the evaporator. Can't check it without removing the dash and hvac box. When I opened mine up there was a green slimey mess in the botton of it from the dye I put in. The other bad place is the compressor seal, can't really see it either. I kind of gave up on the dye since you can get to all the other connections with soap and water. A new compressor is not but about $125 on rock auto. Last year anyway, not sure if the new tarriffs has run that up.

Just drove to get some non ethanol gas and the center temp got down around 50 I figure thats just driving it. One other thing I have always thought was bit strange is any time I get a discharge of refridgerent is how oily it is. Seems to be that way out of the can. I use Wally world 134a. There is nothing on the can that says there is any oil in it but it makes me wonder. But if what I know is right if there was to much oil in the system it would not be cooling worth a damn either.

My AC has been working so far this yearbut is getting a bit warmer. It was hitting about 40* out the center vents but has crept up to about 55*. I put gauges on it and static pressure was about 80 psi. Started the motor and the high pressure is about 140 but the low pressure is pretty much pegged and bouncing. The compressor clutch is engaged, ambient temp 85* and center vents at 55*. Low pressre switch? Thought that should shut the compressor down. Expansion/orifice tube maybe?