dripley

I did leave that little tid bit out on the original post. But managed to squeeze it in later.

Thats all fine and the alt was putting out good voltage and it was reaching the batteries. The gauge just crapped out for while. Working now. I believe you would be right on that, but this is above the chicken mans pay grade also.

Well I am the crazy one. Both return lines to the basket along with the pick up. I dont know the fuel temp. My last VP went 270k+ and about 245k of that was on that set up. I also like to run my tank low between fill ups running the interstates. I am not trying to cast doubt on whats being said, its just how I roll. also never had a over temp code from the fuel. I dont know how hot it gets.

@DieselfutureThat would be the fuse I have yet to install. But if that fuse was there and blown the alternator would not put out any voltage correct? The alt was putting out 13.8 while gauge was all the way to the left. And now its reading again. I have not had an electrical gremlin since I did WT's mod, guess I am due one.

And which fuse might you be speaking of? More food for thought, I just went and cranked it again to see if the the other gauges were working and the volt gauge is back to reading a tick under 14 volts. Double

Just got in from and about 8 miles out I noticed the the check gauges light is on and the volt gauge is on 0. Roll in the driveway and put the meter and its putting out 13,8 volts on the charge stud. Not sure what to check now. Ideas anyone??? t

If younhave the 165 pump head it should have a pressure regulator on it you can adjust. Or is that on filter base. Cant remember now.

By what I read if you were to hold a halogen bulb next to the led bulb with the bases even, where the bases fit into the housing, that the led chip should be at the same distance as the filament in the halogen from the base. Once I installed mine into the housing and liked what I saw I never took it out to compare. So needless to say the above info was found after I installed mine and I am to lazy to take them out and see if they are close. Now these lights are not a big game changer. Right now mine reach about the same as the halogens but light is brighter. I have had them aimed higher with good results but they seemed to me to be to high for on coming traffic. No one flipped their high beams at me but I dont think anyone knows how to do that anymore. I based my adjustments on how the beams hit a vehicle in front of me, as in did I light there passenger compartment up at a stop light or not. The LED's I used were LASFIT LC6 9004. Plug and play. At $35 for the pair. I was into the whole deal for less than $150.

I used this. It just has the rear reflector and projects the light mostly forward. They light the side of the road about as well as the oe housings with halogen bulb. The adjusting screws are held in place with a clip very much like the oe but pretty thin. They have held where I set them but seem cheap. So I dont they they are just trash can fodder but only couple steps ahead of that. I did this just experient and it came out pretty good. One other thing I kept reading about was the loaction of the light chip in the bulb and that you would have better performance if said chip was in the same location as the filament in a halogen bulb. But I have only tried the one led set in them. So how true that is I dont know.

Gone or going back for seconds? I had to look at the picture a couple times to see they were studs, sure looked like bolts at first.

RA uses a lot different suppliers for head lights. I got the set I have on amazon along with some different brand bulbs and they worked pretty good. Cleat lenses with just a rear reflector. Light stays on the road and not in the trees.

A little dose of chicken oil in both ears every night will make a world of difference. A little messy but well worth it.

i dont exactly know what it is my self. But I do know so many things I buy on the east coast has a warning on it that the state of California has determined its bad for me in one way or another.

Negative on that.

i have plenty of patience for now.

I keep hoping for the shipping email to arrive but know I am bit premature. Then yesterday I read an article about shortages of shipping containers.. It appears some US agricultural products have not shipped because the demand for containers is having the shippers loading empty one for return to China and other destinations. So I hope ours is on the way back in the near future. It would appear thought that the HX is in stock and maybe ready to ship. and a big thanks to @Blueox01for testing the water and @AH64ID's input on the turbo.

2 things I noticed is that one it does have the v band connection on the back. Your hy bolted connection should swap to it. Two it could be set up for a different vehicle. I phone call to them would be advised before purchasing and tell them what you want to use it on . The waste is mounted differently than mine but looks like ought to work. I just bought an HE351w from them on a pre sale deal and wont see it for a while. I do know that I will have to clock the compressor so it fits my application and modify the waste gate mount a little to clear the oil filter.

free refrigeration.

My HX did not come with the V band. the down pipe bolted to an elbow. They were not all the same. But it is good to hear that part will swap from the HY, That I was not sure of. Here is starting place. There are alot knock offs out there so be careful. https://www.benzforce.com/products/new-genuine-holset-hx35w-4035253-3960478-hx35?_pos=1&_sid=1930864b7&_ss=r

Them gremlins is every where. Good luck there lady.

I you have the time take it, especially if its something you have never done before. This has served me well over the years when jumping into something new. Plus someone has to keep the cooler full beer too.

I saw the post not recommending not pouring and if it is collecting in something that is open to the atmosphere I probably would not pour it back in either. But we are talking about a very small amount of oil to worry about with 11 quarts in the engine. Its your truck pour it back in if you wish. I have never seen much drip out of mine so it never bothered me. I just took the puke bottle off mine and ran a pipe down and back near the axle. Lazy mans way. Of course mine is mostly a highway truck and does not see a situation where the engine is nose down and can puke a lot oil. I looked up the part # you posted and it seems unavailable on Amazon anymore. One place listed it at 100% off and another wanted $323 for it. I guess I would have to more about it. One of those places said it weighed 19.5 pounds. I would have to know good bit more about but did not take much time digging into it.

I dont know anyone here has one. Could be I guess. I have replaced mine twice in the 19+ years I have had it. I learned the first time to do it when in there for something elsel.. Last time I changed mine was when I replaced a failed VP. The gasket was not leaking but had been on for a while so I just changed it.

The HX35W is what came factory. It has a waste gate hence the W. That would be the one you want. I believe the 12cm housing is the one you want but I would defer to the more knowledgeable on that.