dripley

Mine did the same for a couple years until it finally just stayed on all the time. I bought some seats about 4 years ago and installed them and light has stayed off ever since. Of course my seats, drivers side mainly, was worn down badly. I was on my second driver seat cushion and found a whole front row for !25 bucks. The light has been off since and the only part that changed as far as that goes was the seat belt buckle. It pugged right into the factory connection under the seat. maybe that connection needs some cleaning??

I have to agree with both of you. If you can get to where you want mechanically or electronically go for it. Not everyone wants a lot of extra power and some do. I know I was tickled to death when I put the Banks tuner on in 2005, then 4 years later I added some rv275's and was just as tickled again. Then 5 years later I added the Edge Comp and was tickled pink again. And hear we are now and I would like to add a quad but tuning part is holding me back. Just not sure I want to mess with learning it. I will know that better after I put the HE351W on the truck when gets here. I hope to be tickled with that addition as much as the others. Time will tell. @Dieselfuture @Evan

When mine was new it did move down the road just fine and would pull a house off the foundation. But It did so very leisurely. 4 years later when the 100k mile expired I put my first tuner on it. I new nothing about injectors or anything else in the go fast world. At least the tuner took it out of the leisurely mode. And as far as 28" tires go, not on my truck. I know Mike loves his 245's but the 265's are as small as I will go at 31" I believe. Time has definitely changed what we can do with them now just like it did in the after market when they were new. I like this but cant quite figure out how we all got disturbed.

Those are some spindly looking legs on that jeep. Maybe you should try some 37's on it.

Took my first road trip in mine the minute they handed me the keys at the dealership back in October of 01. South Carolina to New Jersey. Took a job over from a super they let go. Did Such a fine job they let build another one even further north in New Jersey. Oh joy. They truck has been on a road trip ever since. Closing in on 522k miles. Soon we will both be taking a big break from the road.

If the second and third codes are new, you got a bad VP.

You got to love the simple fixes. Good to hear.

be patient my friend. not the first change of government either of us have seen. Maybe these folks can sit at the table and actually talk. tryng to keep an open mind.

is that a colt 1 x 4?

how are the libs missing this kind of stuff? Just a matter of time I guess.

The chinese ones about one or 2 weeks. AA AZ or Orielly's stock them. Used to be 100 buck apiece but here the orielly's one that was 100 went to 200 not long ago.

If you have the time and dont mind something less than Cummins, there are alternatives. The price stopped me from just throwing the part at it originally. I now have 4 spares after buying the 3 Chinese ones.

So if I used a square wave of liquid oxygen along with a generator app with some super chilled hydrogen peroxide, could I make to the mood and back on less than 720 tanks of diesel? Man I had fun typing that. All in jest because your thread was so far over my head it is ridiculous. Me I would just stick my tongue to wires and see if I saw squares or circles.

I have manual trans and needless to say no weird things with it. But I had other issues that the ground nod helped put to bed. If you are having electrical gremlins of any sort it is time to address the electrical system. It might not fix everything but it is worth the effort. Good clean DC voltage is what you are after. I would think the new one is ok if all is working well. The oil pressure sender or switch is the big one I know of. Maybe more than I know about. But I would think the ECM would look at things differently if the wiring harness is not right. Has to be some programing differences to accommodate the sensor differences or anything else that Dodge might have changed.

I have thought about doing this to mine. My E brake actuator failed a while back and I have entertained a thought of doing just that thing. You could too, all you need is someones failed exhaust brake elbow with the butterfly in it an some sort of cable. Wha lah, an E brake for idle.

My truck with exhaust brake and no high idle would see about 450*.

Have you done Wt's ground mod, checked for AC ripple on the alternator, and your battery and other ground connections? I did all that a couple years and fixed a bad splice in the 5v signal waire to the sensors. I was having dead pedal with surging issues plus other electrical gremlins. Did all of the above with new battery cables and have been gremlin free ever since. Dirty power and and bad grounds will cause all kinds of issues including trans shifting. Does your mechanical show boost when the quad does not? Mine was not not a bad ground like @Mopar1973Manmentioned. Never did find what caused the first one to go. A new one fixed it however. Until it went when the VP failed. Worked fine up until then. There is another glued together ground splice in the wiring harness 6" or so from the ecm that could be problematic. You can find it in your spare harness by removing the loom around it. Watch out on the spare harness. Some 01's have a different oil pressure sensor like my 02. Mine is a one wire switch and a 3 wire sensor. Not sue they play well together if different.

Imdid have a couple MAP sensors failures on mine that started very much like yours. Intermittantly cutting out and then coming back until it just quit. Sometime before the first quit I was getting a 237 code when it would act up then it just quit. Diagnosing electrical for me is about as much as hitting myself with a hammer so I bit the bullet and just replaced it. It worked for 13 months and then it blew at the same time my VP went out. Replaced both and they are both still fine. As expensive as they can be I hated just to throw the part at it. But I weighed that with hammer beating I was going and the rest is history. Thru all of this a member here posted up that he had found MAP sensors for 15 bucks at Fridayparts.com. At that price they sounded iffy at best but I bought of 3 of them. Put one those on about 5 months ago and it is still going strong. Maybe there is hope for them. One thing I did not experience was much of a change in mileage. Very low on power due to the computer not fueling the engine due to no boost. Do you have a mechanical boost in addition to the quad?

Good to know the light fixed.

Like I said its been 6 or 7 years since l did mine. I remember having to install a lot of the screws from the backside. But if this works who am l to say it wont. Good job both if you.

The PO might have put a plug in place of one that was leaking. Not a happy place to work back there.

I don't know of any sensor on the back of the engine from the factory. Does this sensor having a wiring harness attached? There is a return fuel line on the head and then freeze plugs on the block below that and I have heard of those springing a leak occasionally.

Diagnosing an ECM failure is not any fun for sure unless you have an 0606 code for a failure of the ECM. Mine failed with a large number codes but not the 0606. I looked at the link that @ColoradoColtposted and they seem to offer a grace period where you can send it back if it is not the problem. That almost seems to good to be true though. One never knows. I would go back over the connections you made and be sure they are all still good. And if you did not go over the rest of your electrical system at the same time, you should. All of them are just as important as the ones you did in the ground mod. You have WTS light problems which point to the ECM failing but a neglected electrical system can do funny things.

Are you sure its coolant? Are you replacing any coolant for loss?

I did not remove the dash either but did take the passenger side loose to remove the HVAC box from the truck. It has been a while since I did it but I cant for the life of me figure out how the dash would roll back far enough to attach the dash pad to it then roll it back into place and attach it to the windshield. But it has been a while since I was in there. If I ever have do it again that would make the dash replacement much easier.