dripley

The screws that attach the dash pad to the dash were the hard one for me. I dont think you can roll it back far enough to get to them. You would have to reach over and back to the dash to loosen them. I took off after removing the HVAC box. Between that and the dash being busted it was easy to remove. Getting them back was not hard until you get near the drivers side. I left the dash hanging on the drivers pivot so it was pretty tight for the last 2 or 3 screws. Did it roll forward enough to remove and replace the screws at the dash? Did not look like it would on mine. But that was a good while ago when I did mine.

2nd time I parked our 1st 5th wheel I got the wife to drive out from under it. Thats when I learned if you dont open the tailgate the king pin will do it for you, no problem.

He gets alot them from Industial injection. But I dont know that is his only supplier, Thats definitely a question for @dieselautopower. This should get his attention. I have never had any trouble calling them myself. The pump I bought from him a year ago was done by Industrial Injection.

Me thinks my proof reading is lacking. It NEVER dropped my cord would be more what I was trying to say.

I have one made Hopkins that has been fine for me. No idea where its made. It dropped my cord. Dont even remeber where i bought it.

Welcome. I am sure find a couple other folks that feel the same way. I know I am one of them. Had mine since new in 01.

Will a larger alternator put that much more load on the engine if in dailey driving? I know it will using a winch or other large draw devices.

Helped me greatly when did mine a good while back. This made the work quite easy. I did a dash replacement at the same. Dont hold back while you are in there. R and R everything. You will be sorry if you dont. Great right up Mike.

I put the LMC in mine 4 years or so back and it has well. I did not remove the whole dash. Just took the passenger side loose and hung it from the grab handle. It worked just fine though there are 3 screws on the drivers side that are to get to. I also rebuilt the hvac box. Used all the old parts except for the heater core and evaporator. I also put new foam an the doors and a Heater Treater connector for the blend. It has worked fine until the blend door actuator failed a couple months ago.. Used this for a guide. The only other part that failed was the main vacuum line where it passes thru the fire wall. It would be wise to replace that line. My thinking is that the line is right above the turbo and I believe off of it made the plastic brittle and it broke. Since it failed about 4 years after I did the box I just a new line thru the firewall on the drivers side to the hvac selector. Never understood why Dodge ran the oe line across the fire wall just bring it back to the drivers side.

I am in no way the electrical guru here but I do know that WT's ground mod is spot on. I have not had an electrical gremlin since doing the mod.

I did not have any cutting out or stumbling. Closest thing to that I ever had bucking at high load and rpm and that was from a clogging fuel filter. Surging and dead pedal were my biggest gremlins. No more though.

I assumed you were trying the 1/2 ton harness since that where the dash came from.

I buy things from Advance on line for the 20% off they cant give in the store and just pick it up. Sounds like they may have had it in stock if he got an hour later. That is fast. The last couple things I ordered from RA got here in like 3 days. One day quicker than they said economy shipping would take.

I am rather fond of the truck. It has presented with some challenges over the years but has still treated me rather well over the years and I believe it has many more left for me to enjoy. I would also wonder how much the 1/2 ton gasser vs the 3/4 ton w/Cummins differs. A lot of unknowns for an electrical neophyte such as myself.

I have no personal experience but Dodge tweaked alot of stuff that would cause issues from 2000 to 2002 where they want work. 98.5 to 99 I would not know. most of the harnesses I see on my 02 have tags with part numbers for what thats worth.

I had some similar issues as @Dieselfuture had. Had a problem with the 5v signal reference and AC noise border line high. Did WT's ground mod, new battery cables and clean everything up real good. I have trouble free for the most part for the past years. No more electrical gremlins. Maybe I better knock DF's wooden head.

If you are truly stock that boost is normal. The stock waste gate should open around 20 psi.

There are some pump codes that will show on a OBD code reader. Of course the code has to be tripped to be visible. Mine failed not long after it set a 0216 code, mechanical failure. There are few other pump codes that can read with an OBD II. The DRBIII is definitely much better at communicating with the truck but pricey.

My wife was more than happy to oblige. But she lost the smile on her face when she realized I was not going to get under the truck.

These trucks love clean DC power and grounds. Solves some weird things that can happen. Good to hear it worked out for you.

My wifes 2000 dakota was doing what you describe under accelaration. I for get what sheared now but the axle was rotating under load. I noticed a scrapping noise when she put it in gear and looked under the truck and saw axle rotate. I would get someone to sit in and put in gear and give it a little throttle. Then look and see if you see something moving around. Of course set the brake and use the service brakes and dont get under it. The wifes was quite obvious.

i did mine 3 or so years ago. Case leaked and I had a leak hitting the floor mat. I did not put the seal on the shaft and all is working fine. i do every so often see a drip on the floormat

i would show him the reticles that linked in this thread. if he's not used to working on them he wont be familiar with the things we have all learned here.

my daughter lives in TN. She calls the other day and here 07 CRV is spraying oil and was told she had a bad seal. Did not know which one. With that sideways motor on it I did not want to touch a seal. The car has over 200k. The front is torn up from hitting a deer and the lift is bent up from her parking and exiting her car while running and not in park. So I found her an 06 Odyssey with about 50k less on the clock with a rebuilt tranny and timing belt/water pump nexly done. So I am the creditor for said purpose and after I purchase the vehicle she sends me an email that she found out that is just the power steering pump and texted me that ike I was going to laugh about it not being serious. I texted back that the guy out 3300 bucks did not see the humor in that one. I love all my children dearly. Sometimes that can be a big struggle.

Is the white smoke clearing up?