dripley

Does the cloud smell like of diesel fuel or anti freeze ? Check your codes with a code reader. The key trick does not always retrieve everything. Even my 02 that reads both computers does not always get them all.

can you tell us a little more about the truck, like year, auto or manual, type of lift pump with pressures idle and wot. It would be helpful.

I guess this is one of those experiences that leads to bad reviews we have all read. I can understand your frustration and hope this ends up a lot better than it is proceeding. Also the lope I experienced is nothing like you are describing. Mine was more a wtf was that. Noticeable but nothing as you describe.

My oe VP only lasted 70K. The reman replacement from Dodge lasted 150k. It was about half way thru its life that I learned the importance of fuel pressure and got fixed. I am confident thats why the second one lasted longer. The one on it now has 170k on it with no signs that anything is wrong. It has had a steady diet of good FP and 2 stroke, there are other choices on an additive. Bio diesel seems good also, been running a good bit of that lately. Hope it still has a lot of life left in it, but who knows. Properly taken care a VP is not a weak link.

I had a small lope after installing the RV 275's. Mostly on cold starup, occasionally on a warm startup. Never seemed to hurt anything and does it less as time passed. That or I just dont pay attention to it anymore.

Yeah, I would rather see it as it came, dirt grime and all.

Good clean looking motor on the outside. Here's to the inside being the same.

A little off topic but i cant resist. @Carbur8tr I cant help but notice your shift pattern on the knob in the first picture. I have 6 speed also and mine is on about the 7th or 8th revolution. How bout yours?

I have never noticed anything out the tailpipe with 2 stroke. The only smoke I get is from the Comp. I usually put the 2 stroke in before filling. I have gotten very used to my gauge over the years and am usually pretty close to the 1 oz to the gallon. A gallon or two over or under does not worry me and notice no difference either way.

I ordered 10. Hope they catch up soon.

If she was anything like my wife I comprehend. She knows how to check it and put it in but does not like opening the hood I guess. i always check it when I am home. It is a 98 Saturn with a DOC 4 cylinder and it leaks a little. She did the same thing to a VW bus decades ago. The rods stayed in but there was a pile of piston dust at the little oil screen. Motor seized.

I knew there was a way I could not think of last night. I ran a booster pump on mine for some years using an oil pressure switch. There is also a threaded boss in the block on the drivers side about mid way of the block and just above the oil pan. My old oil pressure switch is still in it. No oil pressure no power.

I have to agree with Mike. Have you checked for trouble codes? Welcome to the forum.

It is the in tank pump module. That thing cost me over $900 and they kept the old module so I never saw it. If you loo closely at it you can see the pump in the basket. @015point9 I am assuming that is the OE basket but I dont know for sure

pretty cool there Mike. The wife bought us one. The battery would not last but about 3 minutes and then took an hour to recharge. About the time you start getting the hang of it, it would die. By the time the battery would recharge I had forgotten every thing I learned.

One bad with the switch idea is if you are in a wreck the fuel pump will keep pumping fuel until it is shut off. If a fuel line is ruptured and you are incapacitated it will keep pumping fuel. Have your mech check the voltage to the pump from the ECM. It is better to use that harness for a relay trigger and wire in a relay like @IBMobile mentions a few posts back. The ECM shuts down the pump when it sees the motor not running and the key is on. Another issue with straight wiring it is to much pressure to the VP during starting. The ECM actually cycles the pump on and off quickly to reduce pressure during starting. I have mine set on 18 psi and during starting I only see maybe 10 psi or less. Some VP's seem more susceptible to this than others from what I have read. Running under control of the ECM is the best way, but you would not be the first person to do it.I personally would not want. There is maybe another way to do it, I just would not know what that would be. As far as that ECM is concerned I would jump on that. Especially if it was new old stock. The only ECM's I know of are used or remans. I have not heard of any new ones. For $700 I would buy one and hold onto it. My Reman from Cummins cost me $1400 installed 5 years ago. Makes me wonder if he was looking at a PCM and not an ECM.

Did yours look more like this. This is the in tank module before I modified for the AD. I think his is the OE. Not sure though

show off.

Winter air is on sale over this way. Early bird special.

Mine has never been that accurate. it takes 120 miles before the needle moves, 300 miles to the first 3/4 mark. Second half of goes pretty quick. But it is consistent every tank. I have grown used to it.

SKG or SKF? I have seen Timken and SKF marked on the box but not the bearing. Seen it the other way too. Makes it hard to figure. From my view point anyway.

That is kind of a loaded question. There are a whole lot more sellers than manufacturers. I replace my first ones about 170k miles ago with one from one of the parts stores for around $425 and the next went 3 days later and got one from NAPA for about $325. I have no idea who made them, the bearings themselves were unmarked. By that I mean no COO or manufacturers mark on them. i googled DA and it seems even they say their bearings are made in China as I am sure slot of the other brands are also. I just replaced my front u joints. While in there I decide to replace the wheel bearing since I had a pair. Bought them from a member here right after I joined for $150 for the pair. He had sold his truck and had them laying around. Anyway there was not a mark on them as far manufacturer or COO as were the first set. We will see if these hold up. All that being said I cant really answer your question. If the bearings are unmarked I dont know how you can tell exactly what you are getting no matter what brand name is on the box. Hopefully someone else will have more insight. I would say how ever that a pair for $125 sounds to good to be true but you never know.

If it is not in use I see no reason why not. The bracket that the pump is mounted to has to stay. It covers the hole in the block where the old mechanical pump was for the 12V engines. Cap the old fuel line on the fuel basket so nothing foreign gets in the tank.

The upper line is the return from the VP and the head. The lower line appears to be connected to the OE carter pump. This is all on the drivers side. I dont know of any fuel lines on the passenger side. The gray nipple is the vent. The other two connections is supply and return from the OE setup. Maybe the PO left the carter in for a back up to the fass.

I hope to get chance to get there with my wife and the mil this fall and get good look. Probably up on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It is mighty beautiful up. Not near as high as the Rockies but beautiful not the less. it has been a long time since we have made the journey.