dripley

Well the OP's seems to do it, so puts me in the minority for now.

Mine shuts off about a second or less after the key is off. Maybe that is different from truck to truck also. Is yours triggered by the ECM?

I googled it and came up with this manual for install and programming. See if it helps.mopar keyless entry module.pdf

Normally the pump should run somewhere near 25 seconds after the key bump as long as the key is left in the on position. The time frame does vary a little from truck to truck. The pump should turn off if you turn the key off early.

my 5th wheel has been getting hard to stop lately so I went to adjust them and the adjusters were frozen. Last weekend I opened 2 of them up and freed up the the adjusters. Those things were frozen. While I was in there I noticed that either I have pumped to much grease in there or the seal failed and I had grease on the magnets and a little on one of the shoes. I expect to find some thing similar on the other side. I figure they are 10 years old and I am just going to redo them all. I have been looking at parts and it appears new shoes are going to cost about $100 for a 4 wheels. But I have also found the whole assemblies for $50 a wheel. Then I found these on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013779BT8/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B009996ZCU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1SS57W1AYNYW62MM39V4. At $160 it seems like a no brainer to me, but the only thing I have ever done to brakes on either of my 2 5th wheels is adjust them. I dont know how to tell if the magnets are wearing out or not. Mine are 10 years old but probably only have 30k on them. I am curious as to what some of you do for yours when it comes to rebuilding them.

I have a son who wraps things in vinyl including vehicles. He is quite good at it. I also have a roll of vinyl a little darker than the Patriot blue pearl that turns black at the right angle in the sunlight. Future project until I can pant it.

I like the idea except I am my own previous owner.

I will have to shine the paint, the clear coat is gone on the hood and the roof.

I was speaking mainly of the impact. Once he got in that stuff in the middle of the road he was done. I am fortunate and dont have to drive in the snow and ice much. But when I do i let the idiots by. Dont even want to be near them when the slip up happens. You never no when someone is going to suck you up in there stupidity. He almost got the box in the middle of it.

I dont think anything would have helped the vehicle in that crash. Too much momentum and mass. Like Mike said, the rig just exploded.

Not really wilderness, but for those that dont know why we call the Blue Ridge the Smoky Mountains. Took these last summer while driving to Alabama. The pictures dont do them justice.These are in either the Nantahalla or Cherokee National Forest.

They will just what the truck too.

Congrats to the Bison!!!!! Sounds like they might have the makings for 6 peat. I hope there wasn't any one named Jimmy Johnson on the squad, if so I might have to rethink my support.

I have always had a lazy clutch foot. With the new clutch I am really having to think about pushing it all the way to the floor. Check your hydraulic fluid and be sure it is not low.

Can you reused the key cylinder or are going to have use a new key? The wife's Saturn lock went out and we replaced with a cylinder keyed the same as the old lock.

Maybe. I am not sure. My clutch is doing it out of the box and mine has a true bearing and not a bushing like some clutches have. It would be nice to know what clutch is in there. If it was mine I think I would just ride for a little while see if it gets worse and then maybe the culprit will show itself. I have never lost a pilot bearing to know its symptoms beyond it spinning the input shaft. If it is the hydros they will get worse and fail. That will leave you stuck somewhere. Mine failed and I had to drive it without the clutch back to the job and change it out there. Not much fun and it is hard on everything. All that being said I am not talking about my truck. It is yours and you are going to have to make the call on what to do. I am just expressing my opinion.

When you pull up and stop with the clutch in and shift straight to second the gear the gear train is not rotating. In essence you are doing the same thing as putting it into a higher gear before the lower gear. When you let out the clutch the gear train is rotating. Next time you are sitting stopped let the clutch out quickly and you should hear the engine load up momentarily as spins the gears. It is very noticeable with my 6 speed. Then when you push the clutch in the gear train is still rotating. It should spin down to a stop but if something is try to spin the the input shaft it might not, hence the difficulty of getting it into a lower gear. Hope that makes sense, I have it in my mind better than I am trying to say it.

When you say all aluminum, do you the end caps also? $600 is way out there. Rock auto has them from $120 to $160. Aluminum with plastic end caps. I was abusing mine the day it blew. 6% grade, 15k pound trailer, 3 winter fronts on and should not have been, foot to the floor in 5th. I was getting ready to back off as the temp was reading 210 and rising When she blew. Guess I got what I asked for that day.

If it is binding on the input shaft while the engine is running it will turn the input shaft while the clutch is disengaged. That will make it harder to put into gear, especially a low gear. It is easier to get it into a higher gear and that will stop the gear train from rotating allowing you to get a lower gear. Another thing that can cause the issue is weak hydraulics. If it is the OE hydros the seals could be getting weak and leaking by a little. I lost my master cylinder several years back and had similar issues as you have. My leak was internal and no fluid loss was evident. Next time you try and put it into gear, pump the clutch an extra time or two and see if that helps. If it does that would point to the hydros going out. They are a lot easier on the wallet and you to change out. I installed a SB 1947 OFE clutch. I was told be the vendor and also read on SB's site that this clutch could make the gears a little harder to use so I expected this of my clutch. Still might change out the slave and see if the shortened rod is contributing to it.

Here is wishing them a good day on the grid iron. About like Jimmy Johnson winning the Sprint Cup 5 times in a row. A major accomplishment except I dont like Jimmy Johnson!!!! BOOOOOO!!! GO BISON!!!

I took it to a shop and the only thing that they could find wrong was low fuel pressure. 5 at idle and almost zero at WOT. I did not have a fuel pressure gauge or know anything about fuel pressure at the time. I ended buying a BD Diesel booster pump and installed it on the frame rail at the tank. Ran that and the in tank pump for about 3 years or so and it never did it again, bucking or dead pedal. I always thought that fuel pressure was the culprit. All this was about 200k miles ago. Fast forward to about 6 months ago and I had an instance of dead pedal. Went to idle on the way to work. Pulled into a parking lot until the pedal came back and it has not done it again. Plenty of fuel pressure this time so not sure what caused it. I now have a FP gauge and a ADII 165 fuel pump, installed about 5.5 years ago.

When my truck,6 speed, was new it did the same thing. Not that it refused to go into gear but was much easier to get into gear by catching a high gear then putting it into 1st or reverse. That went away with time and miles. i just installed a new South Bend single disk clutch and it is back to doing it again. It does seem to be getting better not sure yet. Another issue I have is that I shortened my slave cylinder rod about 1/4" when my old throw bearing was failing. This might be stopping my clutch from disengaging 100%. This could cause the gear train to rotate making it difficult to get it into gear. The pilot bearing could be doing the same thing by spinning the input shaft while the clutch is depressed.

I blew the end off of mine mine pulling a 6% grade with the 5th wheel in tow on Sunday. I found one at either Advance or Auto Zone, dont remember now. It was around $180 IIRC. It has been on around 100k now. The one in the picture had about 250k on it. Changed it out on the side of I 40. Took longer to get there than it did to change it. Quite easy to do.

Well I had to learn a lot things about my 24V. I drove it for 8 years almost trouble free. One VP under warranty at 75k then pretty much nothing util the lift pump at 150k and then the ECM at 217k. Pretty much survived on ignorance until that happened. I ended up here and started learning. I would not be objectionable to owning a CR, and would count on folks like W&F to help me set it up so as to avoid those problems. Still, a used truck is a used truck and you just dont know what you might have. Some new ones are like that. It is all relative, but i do have to admit injector prices do scare me into thinking other things could be as pricey, thats more from my ignorance than anything I know.