dripley

You are making me feel better. Just weighed my self on the way home from Alabama and grossed out at 23k. About 500 pounds more than the last time I weighed myself. Buzzin, the fenders look great.

Just putting this out there for thought. I went thru the rebuild thing almost 6 years ago. Bad experience for me, but at the time it seemed worth the gamble compared to a dealer priced replacement. As I remember it was going to be just north of $2k and I did not have it. I ended up spending a whole lot more when it was all said and done but sure did not see that coming. Any way what I am thinking is, how re build able is an ECM that is 18 years old? Is the wait to start light just the start of the rest of it going out? How much life do they have in them even if they are not exposed to a lot stray ac voltage? I personally dont know and maybe just playing devils advocate here. The thing that gets me is when my second rebuild went out about a year later, I ended up at a local mechanic in a small town in TN. He hooked me up with a Cummins ECM, programming, and install for $1400, 4 to 5 years ago. Unless he towed the truck to a dealer, he had a way to program on his own. I wish I had questioned him on how he was doing it. I was just happy to have it back. I dont mean to knock Module Masters at all. They might be what every one is looking for. Mainly just curious how long you could expect to get out of an OE ECM.

I already had manual tow mirrors and thats why i did not need the brackets. Hawkez is right you will need them if you do not already have the tow mirrors.

Just a minor distraction.

Good to hear she is ok. You are right it could have been a lot worse.

I think that is the ones I bought. Though I was able to find them w/o the brackets IIRC. Hence the cheaper price. They fit good and still look good. The mirrors do vibrate a little on the interstate but not enough to bother me.

do you have a link to the ones you looked at? I believe that is the ones that I have. $200 for the pair as I recall.

When I went thru my debacle with a rebuilt ECM, I kept the second one even though the cruise light was constantly illuminated and the cruise did not work. When that one died a year later the light was still illuminated. I had the ECM replaced with a Cummins one. The light went out and it and the truck ran fine afterwards. I cant say that is definitely the OP's solution, but it did solve my issue. As far as mechanics, certified or not, they are like superintendents, some are better than others.

My after market heated/power tow mirrors don't have the emblem on them.

I bought a cluster from the junkyard for $100 about 6 years ago. Still sitting on a shelf in my shop. I am assuming the $1000 you spent was just for diagnostics. I would be plenty pissed if I had to pay them a dime since it seems they dont seem to know what they are doing.

Wow 755* that's a wood stove DW!!!

This could be a case of the electrically challenged leading the more so electrically challenged.

Is this the same NCAA we have on the east coast? i dont follow it much, but good luck.

It is actually only 35' but it does look huge in the picture. Since my clutch install and being able to use the comp, 90 is a possibility. I dont think I want to be in the cap when the tires start flying off of it. I dont think they would like that. not sure whats going on with the replies. I tried to edit my spelling and ended up with the double post thingy.

On a cold start, 40 or below I think they will cycle and pull your bolt meter down then turn off and the gauge will go back up. Then it repeats until the engine warms up. It is more involved than that but if they were cycling you would know it. From the way your gauge was looking you were not charging at all. There is no regulator on the alternator that I know of. It is in the PCM and it uses info from the battery temp sensor to regulate the output. That could blow the fuse. If you look in the PDC, on the fender well next to the battery, there should be a 40a fuse for the alternator. Pretty sure it is 40a. The underside of the lid will have a directory of the fuse and relay layout.

You are right, the voltage regulator is in the pcm. I noticed in the video that when you drove off the problem is already there. The volt gauge is only sitting a 8 volts and should be near the center of the gauge if all is right and the grid heaters are not cycling. Auto zone can check the batteries to see whether one or both are bad. If one is bad you should replace both. Have you tried any of the diagnostics for the 1682 code?http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/224-p1682-charging-system-voltage-too-low If your are electrically challenged as I am you could throw a battery temp sensor at it and see if that helps, they are not expensive, but you run the chance of buying parts you dont need. If one or both of your batteries are bad the parts wont help. Hopefully we can get some advice from the more electrically proficient.

I dont know that anybody just keeps them on a rack for sale, but there are plenty of places that will make one. I dont know enough about any of them to recommend anyone over another however.

Thats good to know. Thanks.

I have done it myself also and it is not difficult just time consuming as Mike says.

i did not know about a timer. I thought all you needed was the heated mirror and the switch. Where is said timer located?

One end has a bushing and the other a ball stud, not much different than a tie rod end. The bushing could be worn out, but on these trucks I doubt the bushing would go before the ball stud. Mine is definitely the the ball. I think when I change the track bar I will get a straight edge and see if the axle is warped.

The track bar mounts to the axle on the passenger side, comes over towards the drivers side up and around the diff and bolts to the frame above the axle. It is not connected to any of the steering. The ball stud at the frame connection is shot and is popping around in the socket. Mine is clearly audible. If you get under the truck and have some move your steering wheel back and forth and that joint is moving, it is time for a new one.

I am not sure I want to know. Mine is doing it also, just slightly. I am thinking he means the axle tubes are not aligned and the causing the pumpkin to be forward slightly. My track bar is shot and I am hoping that has something to do with mine hitting. This just started very recently on mine. I have a new track bar and should get it on next week around Christmas. supposed to be around 70 here

The 2 stroke or the bio helps lubricate the pump. The pump gets all of its cooling and lubrication from the fuel. You can read on this in the articles section, Mike has a lot of good info there. Fuel pressure on the supply is all you need. What kind of a lift pump do have now? If you have everything on in the link you posted for the Banks system, your truck is going to be completely different if you do not reconnect it. My Big Head waste gate opens at 33 or so pounds. With out the tuner doing the boost fooling the ECM will start defueling the engine around 20 psi. That means when you put the hammer down go pass someone you will loose power right when you want it. I had to learn how to pass with mine by rolling into the throttle and keeping the boost below 20 psi. It was a pain but worked. Now you might be able to connect the tuner without connecting the wire tap to the pump and get the boost fooling, I dont know. What kind of boost pressure were you seeing before?

I had the Banks Stinger plus on mine. Installed it in 2005. It went south on me about 3 and half years ago. it never stopped running, just messed with the electronics. You will have to tap the pump for the Ottomind to work or you will loose the power it provides. Bare in mind that if you tap the wire it will void the warranty on the VP unless you bought the one that it does not. It is 3 or hundred dollars more. The 3 best things you can do for the the vp to last is, #1 Good fuel pressure. If you dont have a gauge get one. If you dont want diesel in the cab, use an isolator. keep the fuel pressure between 14 and 20 psi for optimal protection. #2 A good lift pump and filters to provide that pressure and clean fuel. Fass makes a very good electric pump for the purpose and there are a couple mechanical pumps out there that seem to work for several folks here. I dont know much about them. Both style have larger fuel lines for better flow. #3 Start running 2 cycle oil in your fuel. I use super tech from wally world and 1 oz per gallon unless I am running bio diesel then I cut that in half. That is what I have been doing for the past 6 years and it has served me well. I dont change my filters on a schedule, probably should. but as long as the pressure is steady I dont worry much. I sure to hear about that statement. As far as how far to run the tank down, I run mine to the bottom. I will stretch further while empty than when I am towing. I put 35.3 gallons in my once. Cant believe I do not have to walk that last 500 yds for that fuel. I am sure that other folks will have more and maybe better ideas for you. Time will tell.