dripley

What is the cost for these lights? I only ask because i bought new after market oe replacements with bulbs for $75 about 3 years ago. Not near as good as what you have on dim but the brights are twice as good as the oe.

I dont know of an automotive product to use for sealing the boots. i have never tried to look for anything. I have some leaks to deal with but probably wont touch them until I can park the truck and pull some things off of it first. I hope the clamps just need some tightening.

DAP use to rent them out. By the month IIRC. I dont know if he still does it though.

Some of the bolt holes go all the way thru into the plenum and could be leaking around the threads. Not sure how many are like that. The one with the wires is most likely for your boost gauge. Mine is in that location using a hollow bolt. Mine is mechanical and has tube instead of a wire. You might try tightening the clamps on the boots and see if that helps. I have heard of using hairspray on the the connections to help seal them. Never tried it my self. Once I get my clutch replaced I am going to tackle some leaks of my own.

Ok. You screwed up, kicked your own arse, and have check to write. Now get back up, get in the dodge and drive like you know how. Most of us can lay claim to over driving somewhere along the way.You had to make quick decision and lost. It was better than making no decision. You could have ended up in the river. Dont beat yourself up too bad.

I will have to stay out of anything about the auto tranny. Every one else has that covered. I used to have a Banks Ottomind tuner that failed several years ago. So I ended with nothing but RV275 injectors. These alone made a very nice addition for daily driving. They even helped towing but i did miss the old tuner. Not sure what you would have to do to the tranny for the RV's, just another way to go. I do now have a comp but cant use because my clutch is toast. A new SB clutch should be on my door step today or tomorrow and in the truck next week. Then I will get to see what the comp is all about.

Same here, not alot of idle time. Just take it easy until you get some heat in it. i usually dont see the temps some of the members do. I live in Hickory NC but work out of town all the time.

I feel the pain. I just had to drop $900 on a new clutch and flywheel. My dash trim bezel is barely hanging on. Maybe its next.

Mine usually never sits unoccupied. One winter about 5 years ago it did and I filled it up with rv antifreeze. Even today when ever I turn the hot water on, the smell is still there. It goes away in about 20 seconds or so, but it is still there. I wont use it in the water lines again unless it is an emergency.

I used the one from LMC. Fit great and looks great. I am reserving final approval upon it not cracking while have the truck. The price was good until you add the shipping and large part charge. Total was a little under $300 as I remember.

My fuel basket is not the oe one for sure. It was the only part I got to use of the almost $1k I gave Dodge for it. IIQRC the black thing is the vent.

It amazes me how much the air will blow the oil around under the hood. My tappet cover gasket failed and it looked like everything was leaking. The part f it behind the VP is hard to see. Mine was visible elsewhere which made it easier to diagnose.If you can clean it up and dry it off good you would have a better chance of seeing the source.

Is the block mounted pump still there and plugged into the wiring harness? When mine was installed there was a relay on the firewall that was added for the pump on the driver's side and the oe pump was gone. Here is a picture of mine. I think ME posted a picture of his that is a little different than mine. Another way to tell is bump the starter and listen for it.

You can pull the wire off of the pump and check and see if you have 12v there. just bump the starter and you should have 12v power for about 25 seconds. You could start the truck then pull the wire and you will have 12v until you shut it down. If you have constant power then the pump is shot.

That's how my AD went. Started with lower pressure and then started popping fuses. While mine is connected to the ECM harness it runs thru a relay and only uses the ECM harness as a trigger for the relay. This takes the load off of the ECM. The relay is powered from a separate 12V source. This also allows the fuel pump to be controlled by the ECM.

This happened to me about 9 years ago. Would not surprise me to be a good bit different than then.

I had a IRS agent show up on a job in Kissimmee FL and he checked every on road diesel tank on the job. he told me it was a $1k fine for having in the tank and a $1k fine for refusing to let him check.

I would forgo the anti gel for now. It counteracts the 2 stroke. I have never had to use anti gel for the life of the truck and have had no issues. That is with straight #2 diesel. You should be good down to near 0* with out it. Coldest have ever seen is -10*. Bio is less cold friendly and there is a lot of out there these days. I am not sure how cold you can get with it. This is just my personal experience and some other members are more versed in this. I live just down I 40 in Hickory NC and have been coming thru eastern TN quite a bit here lately. I am currently working in Muscle Shoals AL. Not sure where the next job is but if is has me passing thru your neck of the woods I could lend a hand changing that pump out. I know how it feels to get hit with 2 big ticket items at once when your wallet is full of dust. Replacing the pump is not difficult.

The 2 cycle oil is a good suggestion. Super tech from wall mart fits the bill. The 216 code is not death as some describe, but is just a matter of time. Who knows when. Where do you hale from Steven?

With that and a new flux capacitor, who could stop ya!!

I think you have answered your own question. the initial prime is a very short burst. i would bet mine only lasts 1/4 to 1/2 of a second. It does seem to vary a little from truck to truck. Whatever pressure you see dont mean nothing.

I knew when I put my AD 165 on it was way overkill. I did however like the pressure adjust screw on it and it came with a kit to do away with the in tank pump. And the cost was almost identical to the 100 and 150 IIRC and they did not have the kit for the in tank pump.

The no WTS light and lift pump not working is pointing to an internal ECM problem. The ECM controls those functions. The weird thing to me is typically with that issue the truck will not start until the WTS light illuminates. If I read your post right yours starts whether the WTS is on or not.If the truck is warm and it is warm outside the WTS light will only illuminate briefly and you can miss it if your not watching closely. Is your TPS oe style or after market,Timbo Apps? It would help if you would go back to your profile and fill out your signature with info on your truck. Year, auto or manual any mods you have done and such. Look at the bottom of my post and you can see what I am talking about.

Mike and I are in a race to see who gets back from the moon first. I am way in the lead as long as me or the truck dont give up first.The only way the truck will give up is if everything surrounding the Cummis falls apart.

I never gave it much of a thought for the first 250k, it's the last 110 that keeps me wondering about anything I hear or feel that's seems "odd". Just clicked over 360k this morning!!!