dripley

I'll be listening. I am on of those who went thru the rebuilt ECM thing with disastrous results.

Mine was the non swivel and I dont remember any problems on the install. Never used the swivel type.

I am not disputing whether the gauge is real or not. I just wanted to get a dollar to help pay for my clutch. Thanks CSM.

Clear and see what happens. The worst thing that can happen is it will come back.

I will take the bet. i have no fooler on my truck. Warmed up at idle my gauge reads just about right where Mikes does. Upon acceleration it will climb up past the 40# mark a little further than it sits below it at idle. On cold start up it goes near the next to last mark depending on how cold it is. It will slowly lower as the coolant temp rises. Never seen it doing anything different that that.

Mine has always worked. Higher pressure when cold and gradually dropping as the oil warms up. Lower at idle than at speed. Works pretty typical to any I have had. Reading the actual pressure is a little difficult beings the gauge is graduated a little weird.

You would be happy with the RV's or even the 50 hp. The add a nice bump in power and mileage as stated. i am running the the RV275's. Not sure what DAP charges to rebuild yours but it is worth asking them.

Some of the wiring harnesses are already there. At least mine were there for the heated power mirrors. I also have unused connectors under my seats and I am assuming they are for power and maybe heated seats. Never looked for anything else. The Central timer thing I know nothing about.

I am curious about the weight myself. Mine has never seen 5k or anything near it.

I did mine about 2 years ago. Used the rock auto heater core and evaporator along with a LMC Truck dash replacement. So far no trouble with any of the parts. Mine had gotten to where the heat was either full on or off. i used this to fix that problem. https://heatertreater.net/. It is much easier to do with the box out.

I am not young or single but am employed and like to let her rip every once in a while. Especially when the left lane riders dont want to get out of the way. None of them expect that an old truck with crappy paint still has something under the hood.

Well I got some more miles on the clutch last week and made a 550 mile road trip this morning back to Alabama.It is still a little grabby and backing the trailer the first time is probably going to be interesting. Maybe a few more 3rd gear launches are needed. I have done a few but not many. It does seem to help but then seems to get a little grabby again. Still better than the old one. i ran the whole trip with the comp on, mostly 5X5, but played with the other settings a little. Matted it a few times and no signs of slippage. My trip took me over the Blue Ridge on I 40 a was fine. Like I said above it engages like the Hulk has hold of it. I have got to move the 5th wheel end of next week so we shall see how it goes. One other thing when I was cruising up here with the comp on I noticed that my EFT's were running about 50* or 60* cooler than what I am used to. Credit that to the Comp???

is there any difference between the OE and the Cummins branded ECM's? As I remember my oe was not labeled Cummins. The one I have now is.

Well we will have to keep an eye on this, you might have found a valuable resource. When I first saw the picture I thought she had the results of your pregnancy test. They both look so happy.

When you are looking the 2000- 2002 are different than the prior models, ball joints for sure, not sure on the tie rods and such.

I run an AD problem free for 5 years and then the pumped crapped out about a year ago. They replaced it no questions asked, but i still have there quality issues in the back of my head everyday. If I had to start over it would be Fass and I would consider the Fuel boss.

Voltage regulator in the PCM gone maybe? Got to be a way to check it, but i am the the electrical 3rrd grader around these parts.

I just bought new units and they came with new bulbs for $75 for the pair. They are like stock but enough light for me. Hopefully they will last a good while. Had them for 3 years now and they are still clear.

I believe we can all claims days or weeks like that. Life aint fair is what my old man always told me.

The door control only adjusts the mirrors. You need the HVAC controls with the heat on/off switch for the mirrors. I have seen them on ebay also. I suppose it would be possible to wire in your own switch.

A very simple solution.

I have no advice but will be watching for the conclusion.

Sitting here enjoying 2 of my granddaughters and looking forward to having much more family here tomorrow. Lots of good eating and companionship ahead. To all of you, a very Happy Thanksgiving.

I have always used PS fluid in mine and according to the attached it could be read that they came with both. It shows 98 - 02 with PS and 02 -04 with ATF. I am assuming the 02 overlap is because of the 2nd and 3rd gen overlap that year.http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/19-005-03.htm Not sure however. It seems that folks are having good luck with both.

What did it ended costing? is the one piece good for towing heavy? All my u joints and the carrier bearing are OE and I have been thinking about replacing them all and having it re balanced. I am thinking going that route will be near $300 of more. Not sure, have not done much pricing on it.