dripley

Never heard of a chicken powered stove. I was a little late on that one.

I replace all of mine with MOOG about 90k miles ago. The track bar is shot, I am starting get a little play in the drivers side ball joint. The rest is of it is still holding well. With the oe joints lasting about 230k I am a bit disappointed .

What is this steering mod that you did? Seems I might have missed that one.

Curious as to what you mean by less than 2000 rpm. Not sure what to expect on the first drive.

If it is pulling air in you may not see it until it gets bigger. Mine was the return line and it was leaking at the back of the head and the T the return from the VP ties into. Pretty easy to check the T but you need a mirror for the banjo bolt on back of the head.

It is pretty cheap insurance.

The trigger finger is itching. Looks like I will have plenty of time to break it before I have to move the 5th wheel. I do have to drive back to Alabama for 2 weeks until the new store opens. Sure wish interstate miles counted on the break in. Hopefully he will be able to get it done tomorrow. Then I will have some time to chase some smaller stuff I have been needing to look at. Boost leaks is one of them. I really would like to button those up before pulling the trigger on the comp. And by the way if I had been anywhere near you I already would have been there. I do appreciate the offer.

Well I hate to say this, but i am going to have someone else install the clutch for me. Sitting here last night as a cold started coming on and trying to digest the lack of help it appears I was going to have. This morning I am just feeling less and less capable of doing it. I had the flywheel in my lap last night looking to see if there was a part# on it. Blew my mind how heavy it was and I could see my sick arse under the truck and wrestling that thing in place. Not to mention it is cold outside, not as cold as a lot of you fellas see, but cold enough for me. i know the folks putting in, been in business here at home as long as I can remember. Works on the wife's vehicles when I am not home. I almost got him talked into letting me help. I would feel better if they did but not sure he is going to let me. Sure would be nice doing it in a warm shop on lift. But he is taking it in tomorrow and hopes he can get it ready by tomorrow afternoon. Pretty good service beings I just walked in a 10 am today.

Had the truck been sitting longer than normal? If air is getting in the fuel system and letting the fuel drain back to the tank you would have issues like you describe.

I used to do front brakes about every 60k IIRC. I have put about 150k on the last set and still have another 40k left on them. I replaced the rear oe pads at near 275k. Still had some pad left but the backing plates were starting to rust away.

That is good to know John. I thought that could be the case. Seems that most things i look at on the interweb that has a photo also has the caveat "picture might be different than item received". Mike's pic is several years old and a difference is not surprising I also looked and asked about the HD but got talked out of it. Of course every one was trying to sell me a DD. Just did not think I needed to go with one and it seemed everyone here that had one was getting good service and life out of the OFE. So thats whats going tomorrow. I would be interested in how the HD works out if you go that route. It interested me.

Mike has always called his by CON OFE and the one I have is listed as 1947 OFE. Every reference I found on the CON lead me to the 1947. The picture of the 1947 on the SB site is of the clutch in Mikes photo. Might have to reach out to them and be sure. The facings are as described but the hub is a lot different.

The hub sure is sprung a lot differently. Here a better pic of the same side as yours. I hope this one is the new and improved model, Another thing was where the instructions tell me to be sure and install the clutch facing the right way, "your clutch will be marked" and there is not a mark on it. It is however apparent to me that the side we are looking at goes to the PP. I dont think there is enough room in the flywheel for it. The whole center of the clutch is different.

I did the big line kit and I kept the oe filter housing for the fuel heater, water in fuel sensor, extra filtration and such. Is it really needed, maybe not. Just how I did it. if you run the line straight to the vp you can do the same thing, just cut it into the new line. As far as the port on the fass for a gauge I dont know anything good or bad about it.

As some of you might remember my clutch has been going away. After nursing it for the past few weeks I got home to day and dont have to go back to work until a week from Monday. On top of that this is what greets me when I arrived. Sure am happy to have this and the truck gets parked tomorrow for install. There were a couple things that surprised me with the clutch. First the throw out bearing, googled the part # and it came up a bearing made in China. It would appear that it is a common bearing and apparently SKF and Timken both sell the same bearing also. No markings on the bearing what so ever. The other is the makings on the organic facing of the disk. It is marked with Valeo and some numbers. Thought that was little odd on a SB clutch. Googled it and came up blank. Any way it's mine now and is going in as of tomorrow.

I kept my oe fuel canister and tapped the line from it to the IP. e

I can get a reman 6 speed with a decent warranty for $3500 + $500 for install, maybe another $150 for the rear main, I always thought the 5 speed would be a good bit cheaper.

I would have to vote for a new fuel system. Electric or mechanical, they both have benefits. I have an AD that served me well for 5 years but then had a pump failure. Hope that does not repeat itself. Anything is better than the stocker. It does appear that you have at lest located the problem. e

put some teflon tape on it. As far as more air getting thru, probably to the engine.

Not knocking the product but for $75 I got all i need. The weird thing is the only time I think my head lights are not bright enough is when I am am on a well lit road. Out in the country side the dims are fine and the brights reach out 200 yards or so, More than enough for me.

Wasn't that long ago you threw John Pryne out there. i am beginning to think that N Dakota aint that far away from N Carolina. Pinkard and Bowden, have not thought about them in a while either. Local radio show used to play them all the time along with Tim Wilson the comedian. If you know who Tim is, we are alot closer than I think.

Does your generator not have 220 power available on it? Most generators I rent will have a 220v 30 amp outlet on them. My well pump at home is 120v 20 amp circuit. Just thinking out loud and hope all gets better soon. At least you dont have a check to write on this one.

What is the cost for these lights? I only ask because i bought new after market oe replacements with bulbs for $75 about 3 years ago. Not near as good as what you have on dim but the brights are twice as good as the oe.

I dont know of an automotive product to use for sealing the boots. i have never tried to look for anything. I have some leaks to deal with but probably wont touch them until I can park the truck and pull some things off of it first. I hope the clamps just need some tightening.

DAP use to rent them out. By the month IIRC. I dont know if he still does it though.