dripley

65k is the most I ever got on the Michelin's. I ran 2 sets of them with the same results. I too have seen a lot folks stating high miles on them. A lot higher than I was seeing. Those same tires are about $250 a piece right now and I just dont like paying for them. The ATP's are running about $200 a piece. i tired of having to take out a small business loan just to buy tires.

I have Cooper ATP's from discount tire, there version of the AT3. I got 65k out of them. Ran them around 50 psi most of the time except when towing. I tow heavy but not often. 75% of that are highway miles and the rest around town. That was as good as any Michelin I ever ran. On my second set now with about 28k on these and they are about 1/2 gone. I will be interested in seeing how long they last since I have a new clutch and a new Comp to play with. I ran the first set with no chip, only the rv's their entire life.

The one in my truck came from Auto Zone. It is a 136 amp also not sure whether it is AC Delco or not. It lasted about 5 years until one of the bearings started screaming. Bought it in Oklahoma and got it replaced in Georgia no questions asked. Kind of hard to say who rebuilt it and who stuck there name on it though. Tested it myself for AC voltage and it is fine for now.

That would have been my next question. A lot of auto parts stores are not good at testing them. Did they test for AD voltage?

My alternator is working fine but i still get the apps code. Is your truck parked on an incline nose up by any chance? I dont know if the 602 is caused by the smarty. I have no experience with one. I hope that is the case because reading up on it in the articles section it could mean a fried ECM.http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/203-p0602-ecm-fueling-calibration

Do you have a way to check for trouble codes? They will help narrow down the issue,

While the alternator is most likely your problem it never hurts to test the old one or at least unplug the fuse and see if the problem goes away. Hate to see you spend the money and find out it is something else.

I have been running a lot of bio diesel for the past 10k miles or so with no bad results. My mileage has even remained mostly the same. it seems most stations are selling it in the areas i have been working lately. I have run the B-5 to B-20, bio blend, bio mass, bio diesel. And since B-5 and below does not have to be labeled on the pump I might be running more than I know. I have cut down on 2 cycle oil depending on what fuel i get. This will be the first winter I will have used it. I do not typically see the crazy low temps a lot of the other folks on here see but it will be on my mind if I keep running it this winter. The other thing that bugs me about it is even when labeled for whatever percentage, the label states it "may" contain up to whatever percentage that is shown. So it seems kind of crap shoot as to what you are really getting. I probably need to cut one of my fuel lines open to see if it is harming them in any way. So as far as I can tell right now it is working fine for me. That being said if pull in some where that has straight #2 I would probably feel better with that for the winter.

It seems expensive for the part, but not sure what else, other than the fuel level sender, can go bad. Vulcan performance has the entire basket plus the sender in one package. It appears it can be set up to better use your AD with also.It of course it costs more money but looks like a better bang for your buck. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/81.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=81&show=50&page=2 Scroll to the bottom of the page and you can see the choices they have. If you have any questions they are more than happy to help you.

All of the above is good advice. I would really have to be somewhere bad to hit the road and travel under conditions that required chains. Afraid i will just be late.

The higher out put alternator want hurt your AD, High or low voltage is bad on it.

That was my brother in law after he moved to FL. 50 and below he had the down parka on and me in my shirt sleeves.

You can pull the fuse on the alternator and see if that helps. It will just run on battery power then and take the alternator out of the equation.

As long as you are staying in the 15 to 20 psi range you should be just fine. My AD idles at 18.5 to 19 and at WOT I see about 15.5 to 16 psi with no issues.

Can you explain shuddering a little better? Engine skipping, cutting out, vibrating or the like. How are you reading the codes? Little more info on the truck you are driving would help also. I myself have been dealing with some apps issues but the only thing I have happening is some surging of the rpm. Still very driveable. Welcome.

As I remember Taz had a 1st gen with 600k or more miles on it. Do you still have it?

I was 11 years old when that was out and I can still remember my pop talking about that long haired music. He just did not get it. When you look back at the "long" hair and the way the dressed it is pretty tame. i can only imagine what he would have said about things like this. I can hear now "Oh my achin back'. One of his favorite comments. Appreciate yall taking me both ways. It's all good!!

Never have liked the cold weather that much, I dont mind it near freezing in the am as long as it warms up before lunch. It seems the older I get the less I like it cold. So when I make it to retirement the cold days will be in the warm shop making something.

Mazdaratti. That looked like fun.

Have you ever noticed your oil level go up? If you have a bad leak somewhere it should be growing. I had that happen once and used it for an excuse to put in new injectors. That would cover injector o rings and sealing washers and I also replaced the o rings on the cross over tubes. I never tried to determine what was leaking but it solved my problem. However I was not smoking at all but had oil coming out of the crankcase vent.

A set of RV275's gave me a nice little bump in power and mileage. I ran a Banks Ottomind on mine long before the RV's with no mileage gain but good a power boost. I am running am Edge comp now and like it very much. Got a little mileage bump out of it also. I dont know much about the lesser tuners.

I am a construction superintendent for the past 30 years. Mainly restaurants, both fast and casual. Been building mainly Chick-Fil-a's for the past 18 years from the east coast out to Oklahoma and anywhere in between. We are licensed in 34 states and you never know where you are going to be. As far as the truck goes, it has only left me stranded 3 times in the 14 years I have driven it. Bad lift pump and a bad ECM twice. I never thought back in 01 that she would still be pulling my arse and trailer this well.

Working toward retirement Is may favorite thing for now. 3 years and 4 months and I am going home. In my spare time I enjoy the golf course, building things for myself instead of others, coin collecting and woodworking, not much time for that one though. I dont mind working on the truck but driving it is alot more fun. I am on the road most all year so finding time for anything else is difficult sometimes,

I have to add this even if it cost me a dollar. When I took off from lunch today on a somewhat warm engine my temp spiked a little, around 193 just as I came up on a stoplight. When I stopped I guess the t stat had just opened and the temp dropped to 177, per my scan gauge. I happened to look at the oil pressure gauge and watched it rise slightly as the temp dropped. Then temp then leveled out and the oil pressure dropped slightly. That is the first time I have ever seen that. But it is the first time I ever watched them both to see if they were interacting with one another. I am going to have to watch them closer and be sure it was not just a fluke. I am just not thinking the oil pressure would change at those temps at idle.

Instead of just turning the key on you need to bump the starter, no engine strt and your lift pump should run for about 25 seconds. This will refill the fuel canister. It might take more than on cycle depending on how empty the canister is. If you have pulled air up into the IP and the high pressure side of things you will need to open some fuel lines at the head. 3 will usually work, 1, 3, and 4 are the easiest to open. Once the engine starts firing you can start closing the lines and it might run rough for a little while but will smooth out once all of the air is purged. Do you know what kind of lift pump you have? And welcome to the site.