dripley

My e brake alone brings my egt's up to 400*. when I idle out of the rv park it stays on until I hit the highway. Gives it a decent headstart on warm up.

welcome to you sir.

Just joking with ya on the additional info.got alot of respect for a man that will try and skip a motorcycle over water.

Welcom to the family. I couple of question for you. Have you checked for any trouble codes? they will help. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge and if so what kind of pressures are you running, idle and wide open throttle(wot)?

I agree with you. I would love to have constant temp back and dont have a clue as to why all the tstat's i have bought act the same way. I have seen alot of other people in other forums that just accept it as normal. the only one i have not tried is the Cummins 190 that cost about $90. I have tried the Cumins 180 at $50 with the same swings in temp. the one i have now came from O"Riellys and did the same thing until I cmae over the mountains and the temp hit 215> Since then it holds about 188 down to 180 with occasional drops to 170. This while driving down the interstate at a fairly constant speed in warm or cold weather. The ambient temp does not seem to make any differance. I do appreciate any input you have because you seem to be very knowledgeable. Thanks

I am runnig 2 out of Auto Zone. I got 5 years out of the oe's and 5 years out of the old auto zones. I like to get 10 like Mike, but maybe not any time soon.

I dont start my engine in 0* weather very often and colder does make some differance. But I figure when you start it up that he oil should be circulating every in 30 to 60 seconds. Not as good as in a warm engine, but until it gets warm it is just the way it is. I can idle mine on a cold day(15* to 20*) for along time for it to warm up enough to kick off the e brake(it kicks out at 140*). So i start up, idle for 30 to 60 seconds, put it in gear and idle to the highway, maybe 2 minutes. Then i just baby it until I see the temp come up or the oil pressure come down. Short of plugging in the block heater, what else can you do? Surely these engines are built to withstand some cold starting and driveing whithout prematurely killing them in the cold.Oh! I was going to add some info, but I DONT HAVE ANYY!!:lmao2:I dont mean nothing by that, ISX. Please dont take it personal, it was not meant that way.

. I cant add nothing to that.

The two little pins in the tstat are in holes in the tstat and let a small amount of coolant thru constatnly. Since i am running cooler than I should, more holes seem to be the opposite of what i need.

Brings new menaning to driving the wheels off. I wonder if you could do it in a jeep? Hmmmmm!

I always thought the jiggle pin was the little pins in the tstat. what i would not give to see a constant temp i mine. It fluctuates year round. anywhere from 170 to almost 190. The gauge is constantly moving unless i am going down the interstae at 70 to 75 then it only moves about 8 degrees. But i guess that means it is still not constant.

I ususall get a little puff of black smoke when first started, hot or cold.

I saw those about a week after putting new ones in mine. 10 years out of set of batteries is darn good. I think I will let you start taking care of mine.

I actually torqued 3, 4, and 5 the other week with a crows foot and torque wrench and was suprised at how much more they turned. In the past I just used a wrench and tightened them by feel with no leaks. We sill see what happens.

Thanks, I will give it a try.

From what I have seen, if will fit in a pickup bed it has to be a good gun platform. Why buy a M1Abrahams whe you can just bolt the turret to a Toyoto?

If the quad is the problem, it might not throw any codes.

Well no. I tightened the injector cap first and then the injector tubes(cross over or connector tube)second. I can redo them. Should I replace the orings and is there any chance I would need to replace the copper sealing washers? I only want to do this twice:lol:.

I recently installed a set of RV 275's. I had some fuel weeping at some of the connections at the head before replacement. I replaced two of my cross over tubes and all of the orings on the rest. I still had some weeping which has gotten steadily worse. On my trip back to work from home it was really bad and I have leaks at all of the connections. So bad it has washed the underside of the truck and coated the tail gate with fuel. I also leave a nasty stain any where I park it on a highway trip. Around town it is not bad, but still leaking. I am not sure what to do other than replace the orings again and see what happens. Anybody have any suggestions?

It cant be all bad. I put in "vp44" and the 4th item was your thread about the vp44 and all of the bs. the second thread listed was one i posted here about vp44 rebuilders. Hell, I am famous now!!!. I ranked higher than you.Just kidding Mike, but it does look like a decent resource.

Welcome, Tony V. I dont think there is any adjustment. I am holding out for new ones. The mirrors are cracked and the passanger side is just shot. I think if I tried popping them out to look I would have no mirrors then. Maybe some one else knows more than I.

If you could fill out your signature in the user cp with your truck info it would help. It could be as simple as you say. The trouble codes really help in pointing in the right direction. Not having any will make it interesting. When my ecm went out I had codes enough for every one here. Dont rush out and buy one.

The pcm is behind the air cleaner with three individual plugs. The ecm is on the engine block behind the fuel filter canister with a single 50 pin connector. It is sounding like an ecm issue, but i would expect some troubles codes being set. Did you use an OBDII scanner connected to the OBD post under the dash?

The one have will not.

Unless you have rewired your lift pump, it recieves power from the ecm not the pcm. You really need to check the dtc's so you dont throw a bunch ao part s at it.