dripley

mike or someone posted a photo and and a part number from dodge here some where. it was just the float and sender.

just pull the engine and you can measure them.:lmao2:the only time i got uneven wear was before i rebuilt the front end. they wore off on the outside and the inside like they were under inflated. when i noticed it i started running 80 psi all around to no avail. i know once you have the uneven wear theres not much you can do about it, but i figured the 80 psi unloaded would of helped more than it did. put a new set of tires on after the rebuild and they are wearing evenly. iam runnig 60 unloaded and 75 to 80 pulling the 5th wheel.

have not done mine yet. but from what i see and what the service manual says, Marble Crusher hit on the head.

the idiot lights cost as much as a gauge. the pod to put it in gonna cost a little though. i dont constantly stare at mine but it is easy just glance at it usually while checking the mirrors. shoot i can ride down the road with my blinker on and miss that flashing lignt on the dash. probably have to srap the light on my face for me ot pay any attention to it. but if he does not want one give him a light. maybe you can find a sender that lights at 10 to 12 pounds.

i run about 60psi all the way around when not hauling the rv. rotate about every 5,000 or at least every oil change, about 8,000. they seem to wear pretty good like that for me. the only time i had issues was when the froont was worn out. really had uneven wear then.

i know i am a manual but 1000rpm does not sound right. mine drops about 500 from 6th to 5th. sounds like you tranny might have a problem. just my:2cents:

it might run at 6 or 7 psi for 6 months and you would never know you were dilling the vp. a gauge is the only way to go.

i am not really looking for a pump. the one i bought from blue chip is doing just fine. i was impressed with what he said they did for a rebuild. new computer, new housing, and some of the internal stur also. my main curiosity is who and how many whos actully build them for all of the dealers.

<br><br>When i bought mine i assumed they built there own. As i have said before ignorance is bliss. Chip told me out right he does not build them, but has 2 outside rebuilders doing it to his specs. We do that in my line of work also to keep prices in check. All of us see it when buying many things that we buy that are sold under one brand but manufactured by someone else and repackaged. Chip also said that he did not want one of the pos machines to do it with nor did he think Bosch would let him have one due to his opinions. I am not gonna touch that one.<br>Anyway, could list a Bosch certified rebuilders be that hard to find, or iis it a proprietary secret?<br> <br>

thanks. i am not really looking for a service center for repairs. since there are so many people selling vp44's with differant claims of quality, it made me curious of how many people actually do the rebuilds. like me i bought mine from Blue Chip Diesel. i paid a pretty good premium for that pump. i emailed Chip today and he told me that he has two outside companies that build his pumps according to his specs. he did not know of a list of certified rebuilders. either he could not or would not tell me. i did not push the issue, just thought i would keep looking and see what happens.

that was the purpose of the question. i know lots of people sell them, i was wondering who builds them. seems like there ought to be list or whatever of cerified rebuilders.

Does anyone know wher you can find a list of bosch certified vp44 rebuilders? just curiosity.

"crackberry":lmao::lmao2:i like that.i agree on the driving style. you gotta do works best for you. i never 4wd in the past so i had to do with a 2wd, never had alot of problems with it.

i believe i surpasse both of those numbers. when i adjusted mine the worse intake was .0013 or 4 and the worse exaust was .0024 or 5. seemed pretty good after 10 years and 240k. thanks for the info.

i personally like the rake of the stock truck when empty and really dont like seeing one nose up when loaded.i never have liked a truck that sqauts in the rear when loaded. it just looks like it cant handle the weight. i still might put air bags on one day, but thats going to have to wait. i would still leave it nose down though.

ice is a whole differant ball game. 4wd or 2wd, when its ice you just need to get off of it if at all possible. i see people in 4wd that think thats all you need to drive on ice and there the ones who end up in the gaurd rail or worse. a manual is tricky for sure. down shifted one day approaching what i thought was ice and found out i was on it. that was exciting, fortunately my dirt track skills came in handy.

i dont know wether the owners manual covers it or not, but most places i have read about it say they ought to be done every 100k. i did not know anything about until i started hanging around here with these guys. i did adjust mine about a month ago at 240k. they were still within spec but i tightened them up a little and it is quite easy to do. it did make the engine a little quieter. other than just know every thing adjusted properly i could not tell another reason for doing it. but i am sure that someone else will have something to add to this.

Well howdy and welcome to ya.

i drove 2wd's in the snow with no problem prior to owning my 02. i carried some extra weight and ususally a bed full of snow also. but i must say that i did not have to drive in the snow alot and all my driving was on roads and never offroad.

ill get the marshmellows.

hope your hunting license was up to date.

Is that what you get when you saw a hemi in half?

mine is the same way as mike's. no leveling kit and it sits level with the trailer on it.total weight 22.7k as shown. the truck sets on the overload springs.

sorry to here of your troubles. hopefully everyone is ok and the truck is repairable.

i personally know nothing about autos other than what i have read here, but dont have to work on one to retain it. believe me if i clould have helped i would have.