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I like this rant. I think the people of Napa, or moreso their bean counters, should see this.

Hmm... If you don't want it to downshift, you could wire in a torque converter clutch lockup switch. With the switch on, the trans won't downshift. And then you can just... You know... Press the skinny pedal down when you need more power. Lol.

What kind of boost psi are you seeing during the ascent? Are you at 100% throttle? If so, I don't think anything you do in tuning will help a noticeable amount. If not, step on it and make it work!

Sounds good, I know you guys will back up your products. I haven't contacted anyone yet, just haven't had spare time in the last couple of months. I appreciate you reaching out.

You must still be high on pain killers if you're agreeing with me, lol.

Since you have the turbo already, I say get the t3/t4 adapter and let er rip! Let us know how it is. Worst case scenario you have to pull it out and put the old one back in. I agree you may have issues, but you won't know how severe until you try.

4th gear and TCC lockup are not affected by TV cable. They are electronic. One wire to the trans is grounded to engage lockup, another wire is grounded to engage OD (4th). Here's some copied information from the FSM: " 3-4 UPSHIFT OCCURS IMMEDIATELY AFTER 2-3 SHIFT 1. Overdrive Solenoid Connector or Wiring Shorted. 1. Test connector and wiring for loose connections, shorts or ground and repair as needed. 2. TPS Malfunction. 2. Test TPS and replace as necessary. Check with DRB® scan tool. 3. PCM Malfunction. 3. Test PCM with DRB® scan tool and replace controller if faulty. 4. Overdrive Solenoid Malfunction. 4. Replace solenoid. 5. Valve Body Malfunction. 5. Remove, disassemble, clean and inspect valve body components. Make sure all valves and plugs slide freely in bores. Polish valves with crocus cloth if needed. "

I don't remember noticing any signs of them going bad. The truck did sit for 6 months before I pulled the injectors though. I have a cheap tester off of eBay. Nothing fancy but it does the job. I replaced the gauge with a better one though.

I'm running 7x.014 nozzles with a regular VP44, to the best of my knowledge, there's nothing wrong with that. Let me know what you come up with. I first put on these 7x.014 DSS (Diesel Speed Shop) injector nozzles when I built my truck up. They were always pretty dirty, but delivered. I took them out at some point because they were idling a bit rough and smokey. I bought my own pop tester, and it turns out pop pressure was all over the place. The shop that did them did a poor job matching them all up. I then put in some DAP 7x.013 nozzles. They were much cleaner and I liked them. I went to re-pop test them after about 7500 kms or so, and one or two are shot, they wont atomize (mist), they just pop and squirt. Very disappointing to say the least, I still need to talk to them about this. Recently I put the 7x.014 DSS nozzles back in, they pop tested well. But my EGT's are up about 200 degrees on the big end. Compounds seem to like them though. I'm trying to tune them for smoke, and one thing I noticed is that I could inject a lot more fuel at low psi to help with spool-up with the DAP nozzles, as compared to DSS. Sorry for the derail, I'm just curious to see what you decide on.

That's probably the one and only benefit of being in a severe drought. Not many mosquitoes! But I think I'd rather have some rain and use some bug spray. We're in trouble here.

I'm not sure where things went wrong, but I don't remember anyone calling you out on anything or saying you are using more fuel. Anything I posted was for comparison purposes. And no two people here can have a real comparison anyway, there's too many variables. I'm always on the pursuit of learning, but at some point it just doesn't matter. Maybe I'll take the leveling kit out and put some pizza cutters on and make my own comparison, haha.

First one is level 0, second one level 3? If there's something about level 0 you like, ie maybe timing is lower try pulling some timing in your tune to bring it closer to what you like.

Are both those logs on level 3, or is one level 0? At first glance it looks like the first one is a little retarded in timing, at least when compared to the second.

Unfortunately we don't have any highways that have a speed limit over 110 km/h. I might be able to get 70-75, anything more is begging for a ticket. And those tickets are getting expensive here. This truck won't see a ton of highway miles this year without an RV behind it

All good, no rush, just wanted to see if you or anyone else has the same problem.

Had a highway trip today finally. Had to take off the DAP nozzles and put the dirty 7x.014 DSS nozzles back on. Running them at 350 Bar. Hoping to settle around 330 or so. No speedo shown, but cruise is set at 80mph. Pretty heavy head wind as well. Running in overdrive, EGT's from 740 to 820 or so. Ignore the mpg readout, it's not calibrated.

I should also mention, it would be wise to keep a spare pump. The Walbro may not have an extended life pumping diesel. Mine was replaced once, however that's a story for another time and may have actually been fine.

@Mopar1973Man on the mobile browser, for some reason I can no longer select text and have the popup come up to quote only that text. Still have the option to quote the whole message though. Any ideas? @beren I made my own lines from the sump to pre filter to Walbro to regulator to filter housing. Bought a big line upgrade kit from filter housing to VP from DAP. I think it was Vulcan.

Yes! I run a Walbro 392 pump, 1/2 lines, and a Fass sump, through a Fass FPR and factory filter, with upgraded 1/2 lines also between filter and VP44. Fraction of the cost as compared to the overpriced overkill pump kits available. I can drag it down to 14psi or so, with dirty *** 7x.014 DSS injector nozzles at max fueling (no wiretap). Plenty of fuel. Even if it were to drag down to 10-12psi with wiretap, I'm not WOT all day. 20psi down the highway all day.

All good.

Yes, I'm very aware of that. You asked a question and I answered. And that's what Nick did for all of us, collected data and learned, so we could learn.

To collect data and to learn?

If you have an auto, it's a 3 speed plus overdrive, OD is your 4th gear. If you lock out overdrive, you are in 3rd gear, torque converter locked. If you lock out OD, you'll feel the 1-2 shift, 2-3, and then torque converter clutch lockup. With OD on, some earlier trucks shift 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, then lockup. My truck usually will go 1-2, 2-3, lockup, 3-4... Except for the odd time it decides to drive along 4th unlocked at the perfect speed and light throttle.

I think it depends where you live as well as what you will be using it for, and what your driving conditions are. For example, I live in an area that have some of the most extreme winters in North America. I drive my truck year round. For this reason, a 2wd isn't worth anything to me. But, that doesn't mean it isn't worth something to the right buyer.

Haha, yeah it was the pressure side.