kzimmer

I'm not sure what the tire size feature is supposed to accomplish, because I can second that it doesn't change the Quad's reported speed. But now I have my speedo calibrated anyway, much happier now.

I PM'd you about the flash. I'll update this weekend. Me neither, but I did have to think about it for a few minutes, haha.

Is the extra pop pressure just to attempt better atomization? I'm curious on how much it would retard timing. Good thing we can compensate with the Quad! Do you think this would be tough on the VP mechanically?

Mine kind of does that when I free rev hard... Which doesn't happen often. I assumed it was low psi timing retard.

That would be awesome, thanks in advance.

Why would I be screwed with these injectors? I can tune it smoke free. I'm only worried about the throttle stab for 1/2 second before the quad kicks in. I can lock the TC up in overdrive at 1100 RPM and floor it and not smoke.

How's your off idle smoke compared to the VP?

Where's your sense of adventure! Haha. If I stab the throttle from 1-2% TPS, I can keep the smoke out of it. But you're right, that would be the wisest solution.

So, forgive my question, but I have zero experience with emissions testing where I'm from. I may, however, be moving somewhere soon that tests. Anyway, When I blip the throttle, whether in gear or neutral, I get a pretty good puff of smoke from the 7x0.014 injectors before it cleans up. I believe this because the quad takes a little bit of time to take control, as it releases control at idle. Does this sound right? If so, what do you think I could do about this? Put a little hook on the throttle so I have a minimum 1% throttle position at idle? Haha. The real question is, would this little puff be enough to fail?

Yeah that makes sense. It was ridiculous. I've put about 6 sets in different vehicles and have never had this issue. My old grand cherokee actually had brights and dims, 4 ballasts, no relays, and no troubles. That's why I disconnected/reconnected these ones half a dozen times, I still barely believe it, haha.

Then my special nut is stripped, haha. I can turn it with my fingers and it barely bites. That's good info though, I didn't know that. I definitely had the harness installed, with relay. Had to be ballast noise.

This might not be related but when I first bought my truck, it had the "NO BUS" message and dead gauges. Under the hood, inside the fuse box, there is a large electrical connector held down with a bolt. Mine was a bit loose, and a bit corroded. I had to clean it up and tighten. Brake cleaner (not carb cleaner!) works alright for cleaning electrical contacts, but will not prevent future corrosion. Do not over tighten. Mine is stripped and I have to hold my tongue right to get it perfect and snug. This fixed it for me. The only other time I saw this was when I had my HID's in without capacitors/error cancellers. I can't really explain that one, and I had to switch back and forth between regular bulbs and HID's and halogen about 5 times because it couldn't believe that was actually the problem. Some weird noise issues from the ballasts.

Be careful with retrofitting equivalent sensors of different brands. With my Quad I got the equivalent BWD fuel pressure sensor, and a snubber, and burned through 3 of them in short time before I learned my lesson and just bought the official one from DAP. Not saying this will happen in your situation, but it happened to me. They were, however, as accurate as the official one.

If they're the ones i'm thinking of, I took mine off, sanded off the glue, and left them off. Same with the bumpers on the doors.

I'm not sure how pronounced your stutter is, but with my Quad on, if I manage to give just 1 or 2 percent throttle as slowly and lightly as possible, I get a bit of a stutter. I think it's the transition between stock program controlling idle fuel / timing, and the quad taking over. Probably the same reason I'll get a puff of smoke with the snap of the throttle no matter what I have the quad set to, even 50% valet mode. There is a bit of a delay before the quad takes control and cracks the whip on my big *** injectors.

You'd think so. I ran a fix permissions app, but I wonder if it doesn't go into root permissions... Sorry to muddy up this thread, I have another thread open for this issue.

I get plenty of crashes/disconnects, and I've never seen that pop up. About 1/3 of the time I re-load a custom tune I get a notice that the app has stopped. Maybe It's there and I have always ignored it, haha. I have actually been able to recreate one bug. If I load a custom tune, and around 5-10 seconds later go back to the main screen and try to change power levels, the app locks up. Eventually Android tells me the app is not responding, and asks if I would like to terminate it. @Quadzilla Power, do you have any more suggestions on what I could try to get the log export working? I'm down to try almost anything that doesn't involve a hammer at this point. -Kole Just pasting in a short but relevant conversation from another thread. -Kole

Yeah, that works great on my phone. But on mine I can't even get that far. I just get a "failed to export" derp message, with no alternatives. Seems like a permission problem, but permissions are good.

I'd be thrilled with either of these scenarios if It would work on my device, haha. It works on my phone, but not my Android head unit, where I do all my tuning.

Excellent, I look forward to that. I am hoping they also add in a feature to manually export a log to a chosen file location, maybe that will fix my log export error.

Google 47re TV cable adjustment PDF. However, I would think if this was an issue your 1st-2nd shift should be delayed too. Makes sense that 4th would be fine, since it's controlled electronically.

You probably already know this, but it sounds like the front clutch is applying before the band is releasing. The band is supposed to release slightly before the front clutch applies, too late is a bind-up, too early is a flare. Do you trust your inch pound torque wrench for the front band? Do you have another? I see you have tried a few different settings though, so this might not be very helpful. I think there is a procedure floating around to set the band by feel, although I don't have it. Might be worth a shot. That bind-up might lessen in severity after it wears out part of the front band... But you obviously don't want that, haha. I think if I was to try one last thing before pulling the trans, it would be to leave the band intentionally a little bit less tight just to see what happened. Too much so, and of course it could slip in second. Sorry if this is useless info, I'm just grasping at straws. http://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/47RH-RE Band Adjustment v1.0.pdf Here's a document from ATS that explains how to set the front band without a torque wrench, by feel. "The ‘other’ method, the ‘shade tree’ or ‘backyard’ way of doing things can also be done (with adequate results without using a torque wrench)(counting is a needed skill though). You will still need the same wrenches to adjust. Start by loosening the jamb nut on the intermediate band with the 3/4 inch wrench. Back it off a few turns and tighten down the force screw until it JUST becomes snug. You will feel tension start to occur when this happens, up to that point the screw will be loose. Now tighten down the screw about a quarter of a turn. You can feel the play on the apply (to the fulcrum to the apply piston) (on the front passenger side of the transmission) snug up and lose all free play. You will now loosen the force screw by 1 1/2 turns. Retighten the jamb nut back down while holding the force screw. Snug up the jamb nut and then give the nut an additional 1/8 turn. You don’t want to over tighten the jamb nut too much or you can strip out the threads in the case (bad thing will happen)." I especially like how they call it the backyard method, haha.

Excellent info guys, thanks very much. I wonder if it one could calculate this linearly to compare fuelling in different gears/constant speeds. Example, 600 fuel units / 2000 rpm = 0.3 BS fuel units per rpm. 800 fuel units / 1600 rpm = 0.5 BS fuel units per rpm. I know this is BS math but you see how I'm thinking? The higher egt at lower rpm may however tell the story anyway. I could also probably use the factory mpg lie-o-meter to see the difference in instantaneous fuel consumption. Not an accurate number, but the difference would be useful in this situation.

Question about the canbus fuel level (0-4095). Assuming no wiretap, is this number an absolute value of how much fuel is being commanded? Are there any other factors at play that dictate volume of fuel injected besides the canbus fuel message? For example, if I'm driving at 100 km/h in 3rd gear, overdrive turned off, my commanded canbus fuel level might be 700. Let it shift into overdrive, and canbus fuel might jump to 850. EGT's might increase 150-250 degrees F as well. Logic tells me I'm using more fuel. Downshift and get the RPM's up over 2000 instead of 1650. Any other factors I'm missing? Does RPM play a roll? Thank you, -Kole

You don't have a blow off valve or something silly like that?