jlbayes

Stalling issues happen with funky pop and tight converters. Happened to me personally and someone recently on fb.

I don't even have a vp truck and was able to fumble through the tuning interface lol. It really is easy to do. Nice to see instant changes and have the truck/s behave how I want.

Careful screwing with pop pressure on auto trucks. I know Tylers is not but something others should be aware of.

I only suggest stainless diesel manifolds when people are looking. Personal preference is all. And they stay hot for a long time even when normal driving. Two to three times as long cool down times compared to cast manifold. Immediate difference in the time when I went from a cast ats to the stainless manifold.

Yep, purty much.

Clock spring wouldn't cause your issues and yes do not over rotate the column with the shaft disconnected. Iirc there is a bushing at the base of the column and one at the top.

Check the bushing in the engine compartment end. I would pop the steering shaft off and rotate the wheel. Just make sure not to go too far as there is no internal stop. I doubt it is the clock spring.

Who said anything about me being smart!?

If I had a vp truck still I would stick these big boy injectors in it just because. rofl

Just something for all to ponder, turbochargers function off of pressure drop across the turbine. The greater the pressure drop the better the function. The turbo will always be the restriction in the system on these, granted no one decides to stuff a 2" exhaust on one just to irk me. It is part of the reason no one sees huge temperature drops when going up in size of the exhaust. I have had a few different setups with no real changes in temps. Turbo/s and injectors seem to win in that area.

You have small injectors, cry baby.

I lightly sand the ends of the lines, tubes and the seat for the line with emery paper. Best way I have found yet.

Sounds like a wiring issue. There are two main bulkhead connectors almost directly above the dip stick. Have you tried a lock up switch yet for the tc?

Sadly that is all I know about them. And after Wade had mentioned it I since have stop recommending the LMC dash.

Even then I wouldn't. ppump the world!!!!!

So you are likely only communicating with the modules on one of the bus networks. There are two ccd and sci. You need to find out which the snap on tool is talking on.

One relay Noted for what? Had a dead relay. Swapped it out with my extra and it's happy as a clam. There are two grids in the heater. They split the amp draw between the two as to not kill a single relay. Both come on and are pulsed until the ecm (pcm on a 12v) says to stop.

That they will. My 12v would hardly start at 20* with only one working. Sorry should have suggested checking them sooner.

On another forum it was brought up the LMC dash is not reinforced but the Genos was. Just something to ponder.

The ecms are not specific. The programming is the difference. OEM part number for 98.5-02 is R5083997AA. I just went through all and checked the supersedence LOL

All 01-02 autos. Yet to see evidence of this in the manual trucks. Be interested to see someone get a log of one with the a quad.

You are missing the point. It is going to misbehave in 1st and most of 2nd gear till torque management stops its nonsense. Bust our your dmm and do a sweep test of the apps. It will tell you if it is getting full voltage at wot without ever having to start the truck.

Stop doing burn outs. That is torque management coming on/in.

Not trying to beat a horse here but how was the thickness confirmed? The installer?