trreed

Why? It's just gonna get sooted up again. The compressor side needs a good cleaning though.

The bulk of my light harness is mounted to the passenger side battery tray. I ran the harness underneath the fan shroud with just barely enough to reach the driver's side. It took a few tries to get the harness to fit without being stressed.

Meant it wasn't reliable enough for sustained use as a primary pump...

Yeah that's parts store trash. Not adjustable and not reliable.

It's not christmas music and it's not their hardest stuff ever, but still has good vocals.

Had a flat spot in the return line.

@Me78569 I did not phrase my question well. My question was supposed to ask if we could just put a switch between the positive battery lead to the Quad, or do we have to switch the red/white trigger wire as well?

Wouldn't it just need the switch on the constant 12v wire? I'm all for putting a switch in, cause I agree, it sucks to unplug the box every time.

I cant really speak to the performance of that pump. I think it's pretty similar to @TFaoro's current lift pump that he's using to supply P7100 presource to his current 380(?) cc ppump. There isn't a good way to keep fuel from spilling out unless you have ball valves installed to hold the prime. But if you don't the fuel is gonna leak out. You would want 1/2" fuel lines from the tank to the VP with this pump, and you can run it to the stock filter to keep the water separator.

There's all his pricing info and where he got it. I cannot speak for the spooling of his turbo however. The link you posted will be fairly laggy with stock injectors. Also, to option that turbo to be a drop-in model (2nd Gen cover, 12 cm gated housing), the price rises to 1,360, and you would still need a HX40 downpipe.

Yes, if the tuner ever crapped out (highly unlikely btw), you'd have stock tuning with 7x.010 injectors. It would be smokey.

Well, you're gonna want to find the adapter to fit into the banjo bolt. I'm betting the spring in your FASS is weak and may need to be taken out and checked (and maybe stretched a bit) to raise pressure again.

Where did you get the mechanical gauge from? Does it have any adapters with it?

It may be cheaper to source a hybrid versus having yours machined into a hybrid. But genuine hybrid turbos seem hard to find anymore. Nick is right, the CW is a much better designed turbo in terms of turbine and compressor blade designs and flow characteristics over the hybrid. Both will support 400hp (450 if you really push it, as mentioned above), so you gotta weigh ease of installation versus better flowing wheels.

Sorry, guess I shoulda said it'd be cheaper to put in a drop in 35/40 hybrid turbo versus fabricating the wastegate bracket and buying the downpipe and charge pipe. My bad.

@Mopar1973Man is gonna be the best guy to tell you real world experience about the turbo and injectors to use with it. From an ease of installation standpoint, the 35/40 hybrid will be so much easier to install (it's a drop-in) versus fabricating everything needed for the 351cw swap.

The hybrid will have slightly slower spooling over the 351CW. Would also lower EGT's over the 351CW. And, you wouldn't need a different downpipe, charge pipe, or make a wastegate bracket.

have you kept the same pressure transducer for all three tuners? Do you know what fittings are on your mechanical gauge? If it's 1/8" NPT it'll thread right into the banjo bolt.

What do you have for a FP gauge and where do you have it tapped into the fuel line? Depending on the type of fittings on the mechanical gauge you most likely could tap into the location where your current FP sender is and go from there.

Nozzles are a solution if you have the ability to get the set of injectors pop tested afterwards to set pop pressures to be the same. Most find it easier to just buy full injectors that are pop tested as a set.

We get there's no light function for our mirrors, but the guy is going to aftermarket ones with the marker lights. He wants to know if there is a parking light wire source in or near the door so he can illuminate the marker lights without running wires through the conduit to the light switch.

The saga continues: tore everything apart again today and took the secondary apart. Not a single drop of oil was outside of where it should have been. Ughhhh. So now to figure out where the oil is coming from.

I blew an oil seal out of my 62mm the other day, and rushed in a rebuild kit from Southeast Power Systems. Rebuilt the turbo today, and it's leaking worse than before! Question now becomes does anyone know where to source a genuine Borg Warner rebuild kit? Google has been of no help to me, as all I am finding is crappy aftermarket kits that I know will suck

Yes, that is normal. You're gonna have to get two M10x1.5 bolts for the non-threaded holes on the manifold.

Corrosion issues, separating issues (as you found). if the truck didn't have that sensor, it wouldn't fuel. The ECM reads the MAP sensor and references the boost data as part of the fueling table.