Sycostang67

I wish I could leave well enough alone, they called to see if I would test drive a truck for them for $7500 and my fat mouth opened and said I could put a new engine in the jeep for $2500. Why do I keep creating work for myself. They are currently discussing the option.

Well it gets worse, so much worse. Today I finished replacing the entire cooling system and sent the young man on his way. About 2 hours later he calls me and says the motor made a knocking sound like something was in the fan and then stalled and he's afraid to run it. I run down there, he fires it up and it sounds like someone clubbing a block of metal. I look down and see a hole in the side of the oil pan where a rod had pushed through and oil all over the firewall. The motor only has 105k miles, and I know they kept the oil changed, hell it was the only real maintenance they ever did. The kid was getting it changed every month regardless of mileage until I told him to wait at least 3k miles between. He's pretty sure he wants to get rid of it, but if he puts a new motor in everything will have been rebuilt except the front axle.

I'm working on my brother in laws 1994 Jeep Wrangler. The water pump bearings failed. I was draining the coolant and popped the radiator cap off and thought I saw little metal slivers inside it. When I got the pump off, I realized why. The bearing allowed enough movement for the impeller to scrape the inside of the housing as well as let the pulley rub the outside. Looks like I'll be flushing the motor really well and changing the rest of the cooling system. Radiator is pretty gunked and leaks a bit so it needs replaced anyhow. This poor kid can't catch a break either, in the last 200 miles he had to get the rear axle completely rebuilt when a C-clip broke and destroyed the gears. Right before that the transmission had to be rebuilt when one of the rings fell apart and jammed in the 3-4 cluster locking it in neutral.

I think the highway district and the glass companies do the same thing out here with the "chip sealing" projects they do every summer. Oh look, suddenly thousands of cars need new windshields.

I ran the Edge EZ on level 3 for about 6 months, and then a Edge comp on level 5 for another year with a stock transmission. I drove pretty tame though, never really pushed it and always dropped to level 2 when towing. The month before I scheduled to have my transmission built I went a little crazy though. It still worked perfectly but the shop said I had accumulated some junk in the pan. The transmission had 213k miles on it when I took it in.

What they said, I ran the cables for my CTS2 screen and backup camera through that gap as well.

I had to do that as well. I tried to fix mine but the wire had pulled out of the buckle assembly. I spent $5 at the junkyard for a new buckle and the light has been off ever since. It was amazing how many trucks didn't have the seat belt sensors though. I went through 20 trucks and only 2 of them were equipped.

A friend of mine had that issue albeit with a smaller truck. He was the lead surveyor at his company and had been using the same mid 80's 3/4 ton suburban for 20+ years, no A/C, and AM radio and he liked it that way. They fought to put him in a newer truck and when they finally did, 2 weeks after having it some kid stole it from his driveway. The kid dumped all the equipment in an alley and then crashed into a tree when the cops chased him. The company gave him his old suburban back a few days later.

I've been driving through my sisters fields for 3 years without issue.

I had that turtle wax kit, only problem with the coatings is they are one time use. I still have the sanding pads, lubricant and polish. That's mostly what I used to clean them up. The oem fog lights worked pretty good, when I got my truck the headlights were yellow and full of water, the fog lights were the only thing I could see with at night for awhile. I replaced the head lights but the fogs got worse. I had gotten some amber replacements, but they didn't put out hardly any light. I'll have to look into some quality aftermarket lights eventually and I'll have to see how well those lights fit in your bumper Mike.

I had to rebuild my over head console last year. I found a harness with new switches on Amazon. It was meant for a truck with no info center, but I just spliced in the wires I needed. New switches, LED bulbs, and a new sunglasses door and it looks like new.

I ordered mine from genosgarage. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ftv-7b/drain-valves

I run the Delo 15/40 and wix combo as well without issues. One thing I found is that you don't have to completely remove the drain plug from these trucks to drain the oil. The plug is designed to allow the oil to flow out when it is unscrewed a bit. The first time I changed the oil on my truck I pulled the plug completely out and it was like a garden hose blasting into my pan. It quickly overwhelmed the hole in my 12qt catch pan and proceeded to overflow all over my driveway. Since then I have installed one of those quick release drain valves on the pan and I have upgraded to a 24qt catch can as well. The drain valve is really nice when I'm getting a sample to send to Blackstone.

I'm tired of the aftermarket fog lights in my truck, they work as well as my oxidized oem fogs. I finally pulled the old ones off the shelf and sanded off the old clear coat and polished them up real good. I wasn't sure if I should put some more clear coat on them or run them as-is.

I have a generic 2 piece set I bought from an auto parts store probably 10 years ago. The picture is a bit faded but they are still intact and doing what they're supposed to do.

I read an article not to long ago about how the new soy based wiring insulation has been found to be even tastier for rodents. New cars with so many electric features being munched on by critters, it's like a rolling buffet now.

They are made by N-FAB, real handy for getting in my tool box. If the lid opens all the way I had to jump to reach it, now I just step on up.

No kidding, that would drive me crazy. So far I just have a mouse that eats my shop rags.

I had a mobile detailer come out and work on my truck today. He washed it, cut and buffed and then waxed it. He also cleaned up the wheels and tires, treated all the plastic and even cleaned out the bed which I hadn't done in 3 years. All but the deep scratches are gone and I can see the metal flake in the paint now. He even got my tire letters white and I had tried scrubbing them with no luck, I guess he had better cleaners. The guy really seemed to enjoy his work and I think was more excited than me with how it turned out. I ended up giving him my variable speed polisher as I won't need it, I'll just call this guy again.

I had Rancho 5000's on a 1979 F-150, they were terrible on the street, felt every pebble in the road. They worked really well off road though which is where I spent a lot of time when I had that truck. I'm currently just running some HD Monroes on the Ram, they do the job. I may try some Bilsteins some day.

I plan on getting an exterior detail here shortly as well, just as soon as I get my mustang up and running for the summer. Between the dang birds and a car wash brush that didn't foam as well as it should have, I need a good cut and buff. If the guy does a good job, my wife will have him do a full detail on her jeep as she wants to put it in the local car show this summer along with my mustang.

I was looking at leveling kits, but most of them are 2.5" - 3.5" which is more than I wanted. I don't want the truck completely level so it squats with a load. I finally found a 1.5" level kit that even replaces the shock tower so you don't have to worry about over extending them. I'm still on the fence about doing it at all, but at least I know there is one that suits my needs should I go through with it. I found it a bit funny that they advertise the kit for trucks with sagging rear springs that don't need as much height to level the front.

Mine works fine, been over 2 years now. I used GS gauges and they fit nice and snug without the retaining brackets and no gaps either. I had the pillar speakers though which required some grinding on the OEM pillar cover.

My boat isn't quite that big....

If you go green, will have the door jambs and underside of the hood all repainted as well? It would be easier to stick with the current color, but I can understand wanting a change. I found some pics.