Evan

I wish the trip meter showed in the pic. On my way home it said 300 yesterday it was over 300 or I'm imagining things I probably never lock timming then I dont drive with much pedal. it is amazing how much power it has off idle with only light throttle applied. It does seem to move a heavy load with ease and toes my horse trailer like it's almost not there. Feels like mike said the hole truck kinda arches it's back and lifts under power. Though I I think his trucks got 100 horse or so on mine. I should try sw 7 with these same settings and see if I notice any change. Maybe give this a few more days to get used to. If the fuel curve changes I should notice.

M55s are one of the longest lasting tires I've ever ran. They also do good in mud and snow. Thanks. I have the fte twister on my 5" a deep mellow idle with a slight whistle. . I'm not huge on the chrome used it because the kenworth had plenty chrome bends. I even have some chrome up by the downpipe. Ounce I get super bored I'll do a 5" Down pipe. More just to just do it then gain anything

I really like my 3.55s I wouldn't change to 4.10 even if I had lots of money to throw away. No clue on what smarty settings. If stock injectors I wouldn't think youd see much heat from any settings. How much boost does it make. If its o ly in 22-24 psi range then turn buckling the waste gate closed would probly knock your egts done 1-200deg and might even make the but dyno register more power. I wouldnt go in a gear change with out proper shims and tools to make sure the gear lash is correct. Ring and pinion sets cost way to much to screw up and have to do more than ounce. But the job is very doable for the diy seller that is willing to take the time to learn how to do it right and then do it. I wouldn't even replace 3.55 set with a new 3.55 set with out going through all the same steps same as 3.55 -4.10 swap.

Could be batteries and old cables making it crank slow.

I like it might be alittle more smoke then tourge on 4. So far I'm kinda undecided if timming setting change much of anything. Was thinking about going to no added timing on this setting to see if I cant feel it in the seat. Though I haven't pushed the pedal over half way down in awhile. Also just alittle surge with cruise control on at 70mph. At 65 no surge at all and only seeing a rock solid 5psi. This tank is looking promising to make 20mpg. I haven't towed on it and dont think I will. Just shy of 400 miles on it at 3/4 tank. Usually if I make 400 by a half tank 600 is easy. Not quite 15 at idle

Went to d1 tug became sluggish. Went back to d2 set tourge at 5 timming 3. So far I idled across meridian rd.

Ohhh but you final drive ratio is going to be off. Haha. I went and checked the at3 xlt out. Still think the ht3 for me. Is your truck green?

I think I'd like to try the cooper ht3 285x70x17 street tread. I'm putting lots of miles on my mud terrans

Hy35 1500 maybe 1300 depending on how I'm coming into the throttle making 30psi by 1800. I'd assume your defueiling since your max boost is at 22

How in world are you at 1600 rpms with 31s 1200 deg is what I try not to go over when pulling a hill. I'll pull a hill in the 12s with no worries. More than that I start to worry

Saving tons over less scwab. Can also get toyo and cooper through them. Save 500 on a set of 285x75x17 toyo mt. 1400 at idaho retread 1900 at less Schwab both mount n balance.

Finally have my 5" how I like it. Exhaust all scavenged off a kenworth w800 Ohhh man I'm really liking the 3rd gen wheels I have two sets. Thinking about powdercoating one set mat black or BMW silver. I might look into a set of street tires toyo used to have a m54 that was heavy duty street application. I've had great luck running m55s never tried the 54 would be cool to have a quite street tread and swap on mud terrains in October

I wont be doing injectors or a quad till tax time if then. Happy with the power fuel mileage the smarty is getting. My truck smokes with the factory tune and boost fooler so it very well could be injectors. Also need to do steering and swap ro all soft transmission lines. And my turbo has more oil residue and some shady play. It may decide to be priority

Nice. I think I'll get one if mine ever quits

Even my hy35 I've seen 35psi pur ov pulling grades. If I get on it it pegs 30easy on flat ground. Though even getting high psi numbers I think I'd make more power run cooler and smoke less with a hx40 youd truck might benefit to hx40 can be had for 300 bucks. Youl need a down pipe to use it. It has 4" outlet where the hy/hx 35 have a 3" I have my waste gate turb buckled closed doing gor me almost 10psi and it runs cooler pulling grades

I'm prett stubborn about alot of things often takes years for me to try new things. Yes locking first will work well. But so will using the hearing available that you have try it even with it in 4wd. You probly already smoke the granny so what do you have to lose

I agree have dynamic tune a valve body for your and toss it under your rig and drive. Yes never do locked up shifts. Do you really want first too lock??

I put D to 2 and holy crap seems to pull harder all the way through. I think I'll go down to one or whatever factory is. D2 made it crisper quicker revving very noticable even under light throttle. Still smokes but manageable. If I have to dive in traffic from a stop I'll leave a black cloud.

Lol. I'd just assume never touch a bobcat with tires period. It's the day and age of tracks.

Good morning you all

Well all be. https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7083-red-head-steering-gear-box-94-02-dodge-ram-2500-3500-2869.aspx

Yes it has more power because revo is set at tm 4 sw5 tm default is 3 sw6 tm default is 4 feels the same as it. Not sure I believe the sw# brings different fuel curves. I still think only tm# does sw is nothing more than a default set of revo settings. Only thing changing with sw# is the tm# and that's what changes the curve the tm # not sw. Lol I make no sence and am probly wrong just what it feels like to me. I like how tm4 feels off idle compared to 3 I'll deal with the smoke I have messed with it but I'll put duration down a number. Was going to change tire size earlier but even that I'm not sure works. I have speed limiter set at 85 and can easily smoke way passed it. I think I have 32" tire plugged in so not a huge difference to 33" anyways

Just get a reman 1ton box

Yes disengaging the axle will keep both fronts from turning but the open side gears do that anyways. Cad axle disappear in 2001 I think also disappeared on jeeps in the 90s they went to a one piece inner axle and did away entirely with the vacumn actuated arm that slides the collar over to lock the inner axle together. Still need hubs either way cad or not to disengage tires from transfer case while tcase is engaged , front axles spins 100percent of the time . Because the side gears are open with cad disconnected power goes to path of least resistance the unlocked inner axle so I guess not locking the actuator may work for tight turns. I was thi king alittle more

Going that slow it would be fine. I've ran 4low pulling grades with weight at 32k. It was a slightly different scenario was actually horse shoebend straight hill my truck in the 100deg air temp. Everything getting hot. Yup I was that guy in 4low flashers on thinking WTF am I doing just like everyone passing was thinking lol. I've ran 4low in parades with a manual making some pretty good turns letting the truck idle through. If things are heating 4low is a option. If a trip like this is planned the front drive line could be pulled in preparation if the driver doesnt want to risk front end damage. Running 2low isnt a option for me because swapping ti hubs is spendy. But a front axle out of a 78 ford would be possibly feasible. Strip it and weld on all suspension components that the dodge needs. Would be a perfect time to go long arm suspension for not much more cost. And raise coil mounts 2" over factory to get rid of the 2" spacers I'm running . Then I could also run a Detroit locker in the front when a locked front end isnt needed I'd just lock the drivers sid hub and leave the passenger side unlocked. Then I can also run drag link to the king pin steering arm and tie rod on the luckles the 2" raised coil buckets would allow the track bar mount on axle to also raise to match the drag link that's raised to the king pin. Ok I gotta go to sleep now. I'm not building a offroad truck. Heres towing 9k on freeway at 70mph bought 1900 rpm. Temp 121 Then this is sitting at a light in boise not sure a added fan would do much since fluid isnt moving like when driving