Marcus2000monster

The sway bar end links were almost perfectly vertical when I installed the bar and now they’re leaning really hard how did it move?? Wierd as heck.

Dang I just put a new Napa track bar in. There’s no way to center it without a adjustable track bar?? No way I’m not running anything but stock height.

My front axle is way off center as in at least 1.5 or more inches too the drivers side of he truck. I just replaced track bar a month ago and it wasn’t like that. How do I resented the axle? I’m planning to rebuild the entire front end with the axle swap that is coming soon. New everything. Tie rods, ends, sway bar, stabilizer, etc.

Yep VP44 Time. I’d go with Eric at @Vulcan he a great guy.

The V2 tuning is the bees knees if your up to it but me personally I’d rather slap a plug and play tune in and go but for economy reasons the guys here have almost persuaded me to get into this tuning. As far as injectors I have a DAP 75s and I’m not impressed with them. I’m soon pulling the trigger on fresh Bosch RV275s.

Thanks. This is gonna be fun!

I would just buy all new they’re pretty cheap. I’m about to pull the trigger on new RV275s for 379$. That is not including core but I have cores to send.

I confirmed that I have a loss of prime as well. What is the common cuase of this?

OX how do you like your rv275, edge ez combo?

Iv never done this but I would use a cherry picker from the top and workbthem out that way.

Lol it happens slow that’s why. When I get to that point I have heard of a guy that sells start rebuild kits by the name of Larry B. Supposedly his replacement parts will spin your starter faster...

Im glad this little issue isnt digging into the pocketbook such as the new alt and new injectors soon. And as far as the topic of this thread the new batterys and deep clean of the cables and wiring seems to have solved my issue...

Yep Iv gotnit now. Reason it was intermittent is becuase most starts lately I have been high idling and selecting 6 cyl. On these few occasions it started hard It was in mpg mode.

@IBMobile Ahem. I now understand switch operation be done in the following sequence? Key on, start truck, switch to 6 cyl, let warm up, switch back to mpg, drive truck, shut off, switch off. This is the way our discussion has led me to believe it should be operated is this correct? Now I remember that Mike recommends switching to your desired selection before starting truck. Does this mean you should cycle grids then make your selection and then start? Three words. TELL US HOW!

Make sure all ECM harness connectors are plugged in all the way.

WEll thanks guys I think that should solve the problem! And wouldn’t you know the next problem is here! My alternator fried!

O does everyone turn they’re switch to the off position when shutting they’re truck down?

So the issue is not within the grid heaters and it only starts hard when the engine is cold. I think we’re getting this narrowed down. Headed out now with the scanner. IAT was 143 and ECT was 159.

Once again get mine to stop flickering I want to upgrade as well. Hung that sucks about the Piaas is they won’t fit in the OEM fog light hole without modifications. I want something that fits and looks good. I think a new headlight/fog light switch assembly will fix my flickering fogs just got to find time for it.

Can’t help you they’re but get videos of startup and Post em up!

I can’t really remember but that’s a possibility? I did disconnect both batteries. Should this be done with the truck idling? I always let all all the lights go off and the chime stop before I fire the truck. When he WTS comes on and stays on the truck starts perfect. It’s when it comes on with key and goes right off that it starts hard and runs like it’s very cold. Like I said this is intermittent. Just started the truck it’s 40F and the WTS came on with key and went off and the truck started hard. Also puffed some blue smoke. Something isn’t telling the grid heaters to turn on or what? But even at 40 it should fire right up with jongrids I would think.

So someone asked here if my WTS was coming on. It comes on with the key but today and Sunday it came on with the key and went off and the truck started hard like it was below zero each time like the grid heaters didn’t run? It was 34 degrees today when it didn’t come on. Isn’t that temp plenty low enough for the grids to cycle? Sunday it was about 35 but had been 28 prior to me starting the truck.

I personaaly would much rather own a old vehicle with medium to high miles that is in good shape than a brand new vehicle. My hope is to get a 93 W250 and a 2009 Subaru Legacy GT. other than that people can have what they want.

I’ll have to look and see later

I bought it used. Theyre is a in-line dude near the battery that came with it. Is that the same as the protective relay?