Silverwolf2691

So tow/haul is a complete remap of the shift points upshifting and auto downshifts when the exhaust brake is active for sure, not sure if it reacts the same with the exhaust brake off. It also holds off 6th gear until low load or highway/freeway speeds (55-60+). it also locks the converter until a lower speed that "regular" mode, I think, it feels that way. The exhaust brake has two settings, full and auto. Full acts just like a second gen, its gonna slow you down almost as soon as you let off the accelerator pedal. Auto mode will maintain the speed you let off the throttle at whether in cruise or not. The exhaust brake on full, with tow haul active, down a decent hill, rivals one of our fire trucks for slowing you down in my opinion, especially if you force the gears lower, faster than the computer would otherwise. It will push you into your seat belt if you aren't prepared for it. The fire truck still beats my truck regardless because engine brake vs exhaust brake. Just be aware that it WILL NOT stay engaged until you stop. Both systems shut off prior to that. Tow/haul is 10 or 15 mph, regular is 20-25 mph. And both turn off each time you shut off the truck. Fun fact, there's a gauge you can set to see the braking horsepower but its a needle gauge, not really able to discern an actual number. Crap, I just remembered you are getting a tradesman, I don't know if the cluster is the same. Might not be able to see the same gauges.

Ok gotcha. You are one of two people I've read about who have attempted/are attempting a standalone vp44 control. This is the other http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202024 He got his to start, but it ran away on him.

0-30° is the min and max but its not controlled by crank rotation. Its achieved with a separate ring that the high pressure plungers ride on/in. Unless I'm missing the point?

@Mopar1973Man, what's the reasoning behind the lack of gelling with 2 stroke? I run either Gulf 2 stroke or Amsoil Dominator and never had a problem with gelling. Granted -5°f is normally uncommon around here, but we've had a couple -10°f mornings since I've had my Cummins.

The reason for the price is the steed speed is a billet machined manifold. Its supposedly the closest thing to a header without getting one of the equal length tubular ones. I think its also one of the few manifolds that actually make power. Most are a copy of the same factory manifold, with the ability to expand and contract better. Stainless diesel is the other one that makes more power. But yes the horsepower for dollar on a manifold isnt great. Kind of rivals a cam and intake horn in that regard My egt probes are in the merge areas by the flange.

@Dieselfuture, what, you finding a lot of unearthly beings in your travels?

Me and my pup. Beard has to come off though. Got reinstated at the fire dept and SCBA masks dont like facial hair.

That im not sure of, in regards to the obd vs tach. But the 3k red line vs 3200 redline might have something to do with it. I did some digging on google images, i found one 2000 cummins that had a 3k redline. Was a wood grain dash truck. Otherwise its 12 valves and common rails.

Meant engine not computer.. the tach/computer uses different methods to get rpm between 00 and 01.. depending on the extent of the engine swap that happened, whether it was a block only or full engine, might be causing issues. After rereading that article, I dont know what the sympoms are for the swap.. I'd imagine just straight up not running, but i dont know. Might have sent you down the wrong rabbit hole..

@Brandon39, do you know what computer [not computer, engine] went in? Because i know there are compatibility issues within some of the model years. Its 00 and down and 01 and up..

Whelp, luckily it wasnt anything major but i stll need to decide what to do next. The white wire from the headlight connector pushed out of the motocontrol box connector. So there was nothing saying "time to turn on" to the lights.. The pin seems to be missing the locking tang that keeps it the connector. I have a spare motocontrol harness from the last time i had issues but didnt need it. I got the lights working, but should i just swap the harnesses? Also im in the age range of the ballasts and lights so im also wondering if i should swap those out too. Dunno, maybe im a bit gun shy since its happened twice on me and dont want it to happen while im driving next time

Its a bit involved, and you need an adapter or a special flange if my memory serves for the manifold.

Im more in the same boat as you @Mopar1973Man, in winter around here i stay in 2wd unless theres enough snow on the ground to warrant it. Or the town neglects to plow our road.. Happens more often than you would think.. They also dont use a lot of salt.. And I dont have the kind of trails like you guys have and no need for the deep woods excursions

The theory is that its not boost that blows freeze plugs, its rpm. Sled guys pushing 4k and up either clip two blades on the water pump or go electric because they pop freeze plugs. But there is still debate on that..

I'm a subscriber of would you be comfortable letting your significant other drive it with the fixes done, or giving back to a customer. might be worth a call to the shop to double check on the O-ring, My opinion only.. It's compressing on the metal ring already in the head gasket, shouldn't be an issue. But I'm just a stranger on the interwebs.. The injector I'm more concerned about. That looks like cleaned up rust damage from the pitting left. Granted, the only part you really have to worry about is the darker rings in the center area more so, but some of those pits are awfully close..

If you have a cad axle, you could just pull the vacuum connector off the actuator. Did that once or twice to drive in a holiday light show parade in a park. Had about 10 people in the bed with blankets and pillows. 2lo and 2nd or third, dont remember, was the right amount of take off ease on the clutch and slow speed creeping to keep up with the line. I think that's pretty much all the pacbrake or bd 2lo kits are.. Just a spool valve to stop the vacuum from actuating the disconnect. I think for the 02 and up trucks with no cad its a transfer case rooster comb change, unless its only for the np231s... [quick internet search says free spins only from 2002 to 2009. After 2009 they started bringing the cad back into the trucks, just electronically. I'm curious if you could do a rooster comb modification to the 241 to do the same thing as the np231. I know the shifting pattern is different, why? No idea.]

A3k i think was a 58/64/12 or 14, non wastegated. @wh82, closest thing is an he351cw, or HX Super 9. He351cw is a 60/60/9, spools as fast or faster than stock and flows more. HX Super 9 is an HX35 with a (60/62/67)/67/9. Essentially an hx40 [or custom] compressor, with the super hx40 turbine (i think), [nope, 64mm is a super hx40] with the hy35 turbine housing, and an hx40 flange for the downpipe. Or you have to start into the world of vgt. Thats the only way to get boost at idle. Besides a supercharger..

That's the part that bothers me lol. I just don't know how much is actually kept in the ballast (capacitor wise) when powered off.. I have a digital multimeter I was gonna use.

In my researching, most issues seem to be one side or the other, or obvious bulbs going bad.. The orange or pink flash I saw could have been a bad bulb but the light stayed on after the flash. Ballasts usually die one side at a time. I have a feeling its in the relay box in the motocontrol unit. Everything goes into there. @Tractorman, I will look into that. The part that's confusing me is I am still hearing the high beam shutter move. Maybe its back to my original issue of the pins aren't tight in the connector to the box, because I had to wiggle the connector/wires to the control box to get the high beam shutter to move. Don't think I'll have time to look at things until this weekend.. Luckily I don't have anything after dark.

For me, hardest part was getting the vacuum pump off*. The rebuild was relatively simple. Only other sticking point was once together my pump wouldn't move by hand. Essentially you have to pull on the gear when assembling it or the tolerances lock up the impeller. The DVD goes over doing that as well. if your computer doesn't have a DVD drive the same video is on YouTube. Hell, if you want to see what it entails to rebuild the vacuum pump before committing to a rebuild or reman, watch the video.. *I took the power steering pump off while it was still on the truck. 4 bolts hold the PS pump to the Vacuum pump. They aren't the most accessible bolts to get to. And don't forget to tighten the oil line on the bottom of the vacuum pump. Makes a mess when you restart the truck.

I agree with @JAG1, But if I had to hazard a guess, @Royal Squire is right. It looks like the seal for the power steering pump to vacuum pump is bad. I think the only way to change that is a vacuum pump rebuild. Its been a while since I did mine. I used the Gould Gear version because it had all the tools and some extra seals in case you nicked an O-ring or seal, plus an instructional DVD.

I'm with @Me78569, something is up. Whether its the Quad, your truck, or both, I don't know. It sounds similar to a prostock/2.6/3.0 pulling truck. They run about 35-40+ degrees of static timing. Part of the reason they sound the way they do when spooling up. But yours never really lost the camming sound until like half track, then it came alive.. @Cummins191, With your latest reply, are you being a middle man or was this your truck that your brother took for a ride down the track? Did it cam while at a stand still? At least more than a hotrod vp with .093 lines and tubes? @Quadzilla Power, might need your help to see if his quad is bad. The datalog he posted has some weird readings. Like 0 canbus fueling at 2200 rpm and rpms still going up. @Mopar1973Man, when a MAP sensor fails it would only see a high or a low reading, correct? His Quad was reading 32 psi at an idle and 4200rpm. His coolant temp was reading like a wire/connector was loose as well, 190, 0, 190, -40, 190.. Could a failing temp sensor do that?

Try uploading it to youtube and then copy the video url code. Can't play the video

Do you have a video of the pull? Also what happened during the pull? There's missing info and a bunch of weird numbers where they aren't supposed to be.. like 2k rpm at 0 throttle.. your boost is reading 32 psi at an idle your coolant temps are going from 190 to 0 to 190 to -40 32°f of egt even at 4k rpm your timestamps are all over the place too.. it seems like the earlier half of your data is missing but the later half exported, but was put first. The timing and rpm are the only ones that seem to be in line with each other... You might have bigger issues or your quad isn't exporting correctly. Was cell phone service low? @Me78569, what is the interval for reading data on the quad? His Quad is reading between .2 and 1 second in the same section. Also, is it cumulative time since last clear or is it actual clock time?

Last night i drove to pick up dinner and my head lights worked fine. Picked up dinner and got back in my truck, and turned on my lights and got nothing.. Well, only fogs and running lights.. I visually checked fuses in the parking lot and all seemed good. At first i had no high beam shutter sound but i played with the connector and i got that back, but still no ignition of the bulbs. I can hear a relay clicking going from running lights to head lights, i just dont know which relay it is. Bit of history, i did have to replace the battery lead fuse and holder because the original one melted. I dont know why. I never lost my hids until i lost the fuse and it didnt happen at night.. might have happened during a rainy day and i never noticed until i drove at night again. Replaced the holder and it worked flawlessly until last night. The only thing i really noticed was on the drive to get dinner last night i saw an orange flash once in the passenger headlight after i had the lights on for a bit and was driving already. Otherwise worked fine. I have a set of lights i think identical to @Mopar1973Man's lights. And had them around 4 years now. Im using the morimoto motocontrol harness.