Silverwolf2691

@Me78569, snap test is a just that, snap the throttle wide open then back off.. i think CT does the average of three snaps. It kind of exposes the larger injector trucks better than the dyno run they used to do. You would have to play in zero boost fueling.

@dripley My 19 was double that..

Not needed at all. Have a buddy guide you by looking in the windshield while you put the screws in. That was a convenience thing due to a badly cracked window I believe. best to use a stubby screw driver too. There's actually quite a bit of room in there, if you get the heater box out, to remove the dash pad. I just reread genos write up and I don't know where they get 'there's a chance of cracking an un-cracked windshield'.. Everything tips towards the seats once loosened and only moves up an inch to get unhooked..

Agreed. Lucky.... My 2019 has been a bit of a pain. Mostly with comfort and drivability. Body mount TSB, HVAC TSB that involved replacing the entire heater box, and a vibration that wont go away, radio and amp replaced, window motor replaced. Actually been without my 2019 for over 30 days now for just this visit. Total time at dealer is 85 days now. Can't lemon law it because of mileage. Still don't know what to do next with it Also agree on the emissions, haven't had to do a required blowout drive for the DPF, but I've only put 7k on it since last September (bought it used with 23k on it). Drained the tank from when I bought it then only put one jug of DEF in for refill. Just wish that the fuel economy numbers were better than my second gen, especially when deleted these trucks can get mid 20s on the highway.. If you look around the new truck forums, even the new trucks have issues right off the line. Vibrations, fit and finish issues, glitter bomb injection pumps.. But buying new eliminates a lot of ambiguity when it come to the history of a vehicle. There's also a lot of "change is bad/new is bad" in the automotive world.

Also, if the new dash comes with screws, use those, not the ones you took out. The LMC one had new screws and I almost blew the mounting boss open trying to tighten an old screw in. New holes were smaller.

@Dieselfuture, I think you got auto corrected.. think you meant rubbery

The diesel aspect would be pushing me away from that.. too much risk for someone to just put unleaded in there and not think twice.. until it starts making noises..

My 2018 EcoDiesel would do a passive regen while going on a longer trip, but would take like 2 weeks to load up the DPF and pop the message on the dash in the winter from warm up. Yeah, short trips, guilty.

This is true, with the key words being "...if I ever..." there are 3 other people I would let drive my truck: my brother, my father, and my best friend. My best friend is on the list because he can drive stick and was brought up around big rigs. only +50s that I have to start really low (80-85%) and they still smoke.. I have a theory about that too.. i'm assuming your using the quads boost gauge? Hope your father has a speedy recovery. my mom fractured a vertebra in her back from tripping over their dogs lead while camping.

Ok, that what I thought. Just wanted to make sure my definitions were right.

What are you definitions of continuous and momentary? I sled pull so I just want an idea of where I should back off. So far, haven't gone over 1200°F

Can you post a pic of your gauge? Jeebus.. my daily tune I top out at 128% and blow my wastegate open at 36-38 psi. The only one I top out is my sled pulling tune. And that tops out CanBUS at like 15 psi.. (wiretap starts at 5psi too. Runs clean up top believe it or not)

a certified used kubota engine is $2600 on ebay.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184853399515?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=184853399515&targetid=4581183927179146&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179146&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=35553aa9369a1c0a939c5a508e6afdbe

The only part I hate about 4.10s and the "regular" sized tires (32s/33s).. 2000RPM is 60 mph. Mine works out to be what ever the speedo needle is at, the RPM needle is matched in angle. I can't go over 95 mph even if I was allowed to, that's the 3200 RPM redline. Working on getting 35s . @Mopar1973Man And/or @AH64ID, when you are saying the "19-32k gcw", that's truck and trailer right? If it's the 1600°F Isspro EGT gauge, the yellow band starts at 1000°F. Yeah hot, but I thought the Cummins was rated 1200°F continuous EGT.. Still, stress on the motor/lugging the motor isn't good for it.. @Sycostang67, glad you found something that worked out. Even if it was a roller coaster to get there.. Wouldn't mind a road trip out into your guys neck of the woods to do that but id have to rough it in a tent.. no camper here, unless I rent something.. Plus its no small feat for me to go 3/4 of the way across the country.. Its 41 hrs to @Mopar1973Man's town from my town with no breaks. 2700mi.

I think this might be the hitch you need.. Reese towpower class IV It looks like a chrome packaged tradesman.. that would explain the manual seats.. thought the same thing when I had mine. but hold the thought until after the tune. Sorry but the EcoDiesel is by VM Motori not Detroit. It's a 3.0 v6.. nevermind.. reread and I think you are implying an option not what it is.. Detroit DD5 is a 5.1L 4 cyl.. 4bt on steroids right there How is it odd? genuinely curious.. and the 4BT or R2.8 probably would have been better, agreed.

Spyntec shorty with Dynatrac Dynalocs is supposedly the shortest combo for free spins. Its just hard to cough up the $2500+ for the kit and hubs. is there much of a benefit for the CAD axle trucks? I can see for @Mopar1973Man's truck being non-CAD, but I thought the whole point of the "automatic" hubs was to do away with the manual hubs..

Cold front came through last night, pushed out the stalled front that was parked over CT. Nice thunder storms. Also pushed the smoke out or cleaned it out with the rain. First time in a couple weeks we've had clear "crisp" weather. Sunday the humidity comes back supposedly. @Mopar1973Man, how close are the fires to you? Enough to be concerned or not yet? What about your forestry fire crews, they been called to action?

Entirely depends on the state. I think CT has a provision for "kit cars" that are mostly exempt.. scratch that.. might be inspections I'm thinking of. CT is weird with emissions and safety inspections.. My 2001 I had one emissions go through flying colors with a dual exhaust, 2 years later nope cant have that, then last year it wasn't the highway speed dyno test, it was a snap test. Those were for 3500 on up trucks. Dig into what the power stroke excursion gets done for emissions. It might be truck snap test, might be the OBDII check. At least for CT...

I'm never afraid of the boastful built guy, I'm afraid of the skinny quiet guy. I have a small skinny friend who I wouldn't trade for anything in a fight. The built quiet guy however, make sure he's on your team. *I don't condone fighting, but I've been around enough that some people just have an axe to grind that day.

FTE resonator. 30" version leaves enough straight pipe to say its modified but removes nearly all the drone and quiets it down. I have the 17" on my 01, keeps a lot more volume, but you can still hold a conversation in the cab with the windows up while going down the highway.

Any way to turn that feature off with it being so smart? Might be cheaper than a brake system overhaul.. unless you need it lol. (err maybe not a good idea.. that put all the load onto the truck at a stop then..) Unfortunately I'm in a similar boat as you then so I think we need some other minds on this one..

what kind of controller do you have? There are 2 kinds that I know of, 1 is a progressive type I think and it just starts ramping the trailer brakes up to the max you set even if you are just maintaining speed down a slight grade, its gonna ramp all the way up. 2 is called proportional, it senses the deceleration and applies the trailer brakes accordingly. so you can continue to maintain speed down hill and not have the trailer suddenly drag you under. I think you have the progressive type because that's what I have in my 01 and its got the same kind of jerk when letting out and getting going too quick.

Might have more to do with your radiator being clogged from the puke bottle than the window screen. Unless you are using very tight spaced mesh, then go to a slightly coarser screen.

I do, I've chalked it up to the design of the hydroboost system. It happened before I swapped boosters and did the same thing after. Replaced the booster with a remaned dodge one. At a normal stop its not something I notice due the the standard tranny. I'm usually off the brake and on the clutch ready to go by the time my light turns green. I thought something was wrong because of the slow return and relatively hard pedal, having just come from a gas ram 1500. Relatively effortless pedal on those. Even my 2019 2500 has an easier brake pedal than the second gen The other thing is, usually the other failure of a hydroboost is "self-applying" brakes. I don't remember what the exact circumstances for this to occur were but its the more common issue I think

@Tractorman has a point. Both the NV5600 and G56 are heavier duty, more reliable is up to driving style. NV4500s have a gap between 3rd gear and 4th gear (god that feels a lot larger driving it...) 1st - 5.61 2nd - 3.04 3rd - 1.67 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.73 NV5600 1st - 5.63 2nd - 3.38 3rd - 2.04 4th - 1.39 5th - 1.00 6th - 0.73 G56 - two different gear sets apparently. Quote from Cummins Forum: Two different transmission gear ratios are used. To verify, look at the last two letters on the transmission bar code label. The last two letters on the bar code located on the right side of the transmission will be AD or AE. AD AE 1st - 6.29 5.94 2nd - 3.48 3.28 3rd - 2.10 1.98 4th - 1.38 1.31 5th - 1.00 1.00 6th - 0.79 0.74 Downfalls are the NV5600 is heavy and discontinued, so parts are getting scarce. but its stronger than an NV4500. G56s are an aluminum cased transmission that is prone to cracking if you do a lot of racing, boosted launches, etc. @dripley, its not a bolt in affair. I think TFaoro dauntless89 on CF put one in his truck. Had to modify the crossmember due to the size of the transfer case. The NP271/NP273 are the only strength upgrades from an NP241DHD. They are the same transfer case but the 273 I think is the electric shift, with the 271 being lever shifted. https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/so-you-think-you-wanna-g56-your-4wd-12v.1425954/