Silverwolf2691

Looks roughly like this when new, one on each side. Problem is they go into a steel sleeved bushing, rust, and seize. First step in removing control arms is sawzall both ends of the bolt off usually. Also means no more adjustability. Steering damper is, in my opinion, the last thing to replace when getting death wobble. First is the track bar, then ball joints, then steering links, then steering box and shaft. I got into an argument with my dad over my moms Jeep when it was death wobbling because he said just replace the steering stabilizer to stop the death wobble. I told him it was the track bar but he didn't/wouldn't believe me.. But we got a newer vehicle for my mom to replace the jeep before it got fixed. The Jeep had 250-275k on it when we got rid of it.

Better than mine was. One bolt was all the way forward and the other was all the way back. Bolts were original too. Swapped those out to change control arms and faced the bolt the same way.

At your boost level, I wouldn't sweat it, unless you get the crazy idea to start trying for 60+ psi. Drive to boost should be 1.2:1 or lower for best efficiency I believe. I think that because I remember reading that the HE351CW or VE causes up 2:1 drive to boost because of the small exhaust housing. like @Dieselfuturesaid, you would need another hole to attach some line or a sensor to. Although the attached photo is a creative way of doing the setup. The coil is needed to cool the gasses down so you don't melt anything. So yes you would need a permanent gauge. Fixing drive pressure is either a wastegate or larger turbine housing. Again I don't think you should have anything to worry about. As for your head, get it entirely rebuilt while you are getting it machined. If I had to say any upgrades while its out, top hat valve seals and don't forget the valve guides. Made that mistake, now the head has to come off again. Go with o-rings not fire rings if you are going down this path, unless you are going to like 80+ psi.. Just gonna ask, why do you want to take the head off? Is the gasket bad? Reason being, the head is very heavy (150lbs), and just taking it off to take it off is not advised..

There are factory options, there are also aftermarket options. I have a Synergy Mfg. steering setup, its a t-style and I have had no issues so far. No dead spot at steering center, haven't had to touch them for a long time (besides greasing). I did however completely remove the steering stabilizer shock. I didn't feel it was needed. It is expensive at $930 but if you need tie rod ends they are $45 each (plus $20 for the low misalignment dust boots that attach to the knuckles.) If I had to do it over again I think I would go with Dodge Off Road's steering setup, with EMF heim joints. I like the precision and lack of play that heims have, and EMF heims are adjustable and rebuildable so you dont need an all new entire joint every time it wears out.

Talk to Industrial Injection and see if they have a serial number or way of marking the vp44 that its a Dragonflow. Otherwise its a crap shoot..

@Quadzilla Power this might help

I think you put too small an injector in.. Everything I found says a 6x.016 injector is the smallest you should run with it. I hope you didn't smoke the vp44.. https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/2nd-gen-24v-98.5-02/injectors-and-fuel-system-3/vp44-injection-pumps/industrial-injection-dragon-fire-vp44-140-more-flow-vs-stock.html https://www.xtremediesel.com/industrial-injection-0-470-506-028df-dragon-flow-vp44-150 Also seems they discontinued the pump.. Possibly because people were putting these on factory lines/connector tubes and like 100hp injectors.. (speculation)

Well I fixed part of my problem.. I have an Amsoil dry filter that I have had and have been neglecting to blow out... well at my pull this past weekend I decided to pull the intake off and go with open turbo (I was starting to collapse the filter (hint #1)). While the filter was out I tapped it out to see what would come out.. it was a lot. After I got the filter back on and got back home, the next time I used the truck, a good portion of the down low smoke was gone, probably say about 50%. But its still smoking at 85% of stock fueling with 50s. My reminder to always check the really simple stuff first... feel like a bone head on this one.

https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/turbotuner/ This is what I run. Its like 10x the price of what mike posted however.. Its been foolproof for me, hardest part was figuring out where to mount it. Its actually relatively big, and finding a spot for it was futile for me. I made a bracket and put it on the screw that attaches the knee bolster to the metal frame. I have mine completely shut right now but when I'm pulling I think drive pressure is blowing the wastegate open. I'm also in the above 35 psi area that puts an HX35 out of its map, so new turbo is in the future when I scrape up some money.

Most of the rock bouncers are running the 47 spline stuff. 1000-1200+hp LS motors doing 20-30mph up a rocky 45-70° slope. I'm not sure how they can even see anything doing what they do... I've looked into the 47 spline stuff for my truck for the sled pulls. Ready to install rear axle, brake disk to brake disk, is 10k for a dana 80 from crane axle... But its either open axle or spool for 47 spline. Go down to 40 spline and there's a spool, open ,or an ARB air locker. Front axles are 12k if memory serves. But, no more ball joints. Kingpin type bearings both top and bottom and you can fit Rockwell size RCV axles in them.. In case anyone is curious. https://craneaxle.com/default/products/axle-assemblies.html In the pulling world, the 2.6 class is actually trying to go open driveline so that they can upgrade to f106 and SQHD rear ends or similar because they are making so much power that anything factory based just cant hold up. 1200hp out of a single 66mm turbo is a lot. That's around what Lucas Pro Pulling League trucks are making.

Just giving an update, I tried lowing the pressures in the tires. No change except for a reduction in the very small road contact vibrations. I have noticed that when doing certain turns at some speed I can feel the steering wheel return to center like there's flat spots or detents in the box. It just isn't smooth but the spots match the vibration coming from the truck too. Could I be dealing with unit bearings that were either machined or assembled wrong? The tech that worked on my truck last said that the front wheel bearings were fine. If that is the case, then could the concentricity of the studs or machining be out of whack enough to cause a vibration? Just more info: first vibration is 37-43 mph, fades and goes away after 50 mph. vibration comes back around 60 mph, gets very bad 65-70 mph, then fades back out and is gone by 80 mph. Weight doesn't matter, still vibrated at the same speeds this past weekend when I hauled my second gen up to a sled pull (12k trailer weight approx). At one point there vibration did start making a cyclic sound or something similar, a fast clockwork-esq vibration that faded in then faded out, repeat. but that one was faster and more of a noise/sound than an actual vibration. The truck has factory sized duratracs on it. They had been balanced and road force balanced, took the vibration away for the drive home then it was back the next day. Have tried different rims and tires, only change was less tire noise, vibes still remained. I'm starting to get to a loss here. I cant bring it back to the dealership my dad works at because they washed their hands of it. I was/am debating on selling the truck at this point but if it has this very noticeable vibration, I might not be able to get what I want/need (loan payoff) for the truck. There are a couple dealers close by that I can try but I'm just afraid of being met with the same "I Don't know/I can't feel it" that I got already and still being put in the same position I am in currently. @NIsaacs, are you referring to the driveshaft? If so, its one piece. I can dig the history up at lunch. Perks of having a family member at the parts counter. I can see the service history and build sheet with all the sales codes and what not. Helped keep me from buying a Canadian EcoDiesel. Would have had no warranties what so ever despite having a low amount of miles on it.

Glad to hear you got some rain @JAG1. Seems like my little area of the country has started the fall switch. Leaves are turning already and the 10 day has 70's and low humidity for us. Also hitting the last weeks of fair season, no more sled pulls after that. At least until next year... Also heard that Yellowstone got its first snowfall already, Is that average or early? If anyone knows... @Mopar1973Man, the wildfires slowly dying out around you?

@Mopar1973Man, what about the tailgate id bar lights? Can't find that on the wire maps.. @DRGABE, easy on the caps, there's no need to yell. Are you installing LED versions by chance? If so, there's a possibility that you have installed them backwards. Some LEDs are polarity sensitive and can be installed backwards causing them to not light up. Do your license plate lights still light up?

Here are both of mine. Headed to a sled pull this previous Friday and Saturday. Got 3rd and 4th respectively in my work stock class.

Im gonna say you need a rebuild.. if that was you moving the lever into and out of 4WD. When i had to rebuild my front driveshaft a couple weeks ago it was not even close to that easy to move. I wonder if either your rooster comb is worn out or if the 4x4 slider is worn out.

How my quad is set up with a 10.1 android tablet. This is what I mean by roll up the cover Yes my truck is dirty. I need to do some cleaning soon.

I did a quick look at my owners manual but couldn't find anything. It was a skim read however so I might have missed it. Did a quick search over on hdrams.com. I think I misinterpreted what I read on there or things changes since I looked. I have to with draw my previous statement of power service being recommended. Cummins is ok'ing its use but it's not required. Why especially when there are clearly better options I have no idea. most guys on there run Hot Shots Secret EDT or LX4, or some mix of both. I know the LX4 is newer as well. Don't know where they stand in the HFRR test either.

Yes and no.. I really only use the tablet in the truck. But I like the ability to not advertise the tablet in certain areas. unplug, detach, and take with me or hide it.. In the summer especially I try to bring it inside to keep the tablet from over heating, especially with no A/C.

I have my hands full today at lunch lol. I'll grab photos at lunch. The case has a cover that I have to fold up and put behind the tablet when attaching it to the mounts. The mounts themselves are attached by 3m double sided tape.

I have my tablet mounted in front of the radio with two scosche magic mounts. Works almost perfectly. The tablet case has a cover on it and needs to be rolled up before being put onto the mounts. And the magnets are strong too. I've had it sled pulling multiple times and it doesn't budge. I've heard of more connection issues with the android radios, but price was also a factor for me. Both issues were from the last time I looked which was a while ago however.

@Mopar1973Man, 5th gen section. I think 2 stroke would cause big issues with the DPF. Another thing is, if Power Service caused issues, its on Rams dime to get it fixed because its recommended in the owners manual. Or they will pass off the problem with a bad fuel diagnosis and put you (owner) on the hook. Happened to a bunch of guys who have the cp4. $15,000 later. @Turbo Terry, yours is a 2022 right? You should have the renamed cp3 and should have no glitter bomb issues.

Pretty much what @Haggar said. Hard parts would be the timing cover (I think) and damper for sure. Also you have an HO motor, and are going to an SO motor. Might have some compatibility issues there too. Its not just a vp44. Pistons (HO is higher compression), injectors, injection pump, and programing are all different. Just letting you you know due to not knowing how much swapping between engines you are doing. BTW, how did you snap a crank in one of these?

Considering prices haven't dropped, quite the opposite actually, since I bought mine in 2015, it's either going to be what @wil440 said or people are gonna wise up. My only thought is you can make diesel at home, sort of. Fryer oil is one way. I don't know what it takes to make actual bio diesel, but I'm sure that there would become an underground market for fuel. Everyone in the states with oil fired home heating would be screwed if they got fossil fuels banned. But the EPA is just crazy enough that I think they would go for it. CARB too. And here I thought that was a US only thing, the highway part at least.

Power Service. I'll grab a photo from the manual of my 19 at lunch. Do you have the actual code for what the truck is in? hdrams.com is all 5th (4.5) gen Ram heavy duty trucks, They have a wealth of knowledge on the status of the trucks, who get what, etc.

The only time I had an issue similar to what you are describing was when truck start from the on position and loading of tuning variables happened at the same time. If you are relying on the tablet/phone/etc you either cant wait in "on" or wait for the quad to load up everything before cranking the truck over. I've locked up my Galaxy tab a 10.1 a couple times by messing up the start. But mine clears itself after some time. With yours failing seemingly every time it might point to a quad issue not a phone issue. Especially if you are on stock power now.. Side note: surprised to see an S3 in the wild still. I don't think its phone age because I was able to run the app at least on an HTC Vivid (released 2011, S3 and SM-t800 were 2014). My mom found the phone left on her school bus one night, we waited a while and no one picked it up so it became ours. I was gonna use it for the quad way before I even had the tuner. Just playing with the app at the time. Then I took into account how small the screen was and abandoned that idea, went with a tablet instead.