Silverwolf2691

@Sycostang67, just remember that the power levels are just divisions of 100% wire tap. Meaning, I have 6 levels, 0-5. Level 3 is canbus only, level 4 is 50% of available wire tap, and 5 is 100% of available wire tap. It doesn't matter what the number of levels is because the end result is the same.. unless you want to know what an extra 20% wire tap each level is, then you do you.

ABS module? Cruise control might be not working due to the fact that there are codes.. But I'm not sure if its that integrated in those years. I would be looking for someone who can read those abs codes and see what they are..

22 psi seems awfully high at 1800 rpm with only 30% throttle.. Vacuum doesn't matter as much on a diesel.. Intake MAP is 36.83 psia, so minus 14.7 for 22.13 psig.. 0.2 psi is enough to account for elevation.. Any codes set? I wonder if your timing went wonky in the vp44..

While skimming your tune, I noticed that the canbus never got close to 4095. So, bunch of questions for you.. What level did you do that data log in? What does your tune actually look like? If you go into the quadzilla area you can find a format that we have used before to list it. What made you choose the turbo you did? That is not a good turbo for a diesel.. a 66 should be paired with a 71 or 73.4 turbine minimum, not a 65. You also need bigger injectors for a 66.. the compressor wheel itself is a 66.11mm x 91.44mm wheel, the turbine is 64.5mm X 74.16mm. You might be running into a case of not enough heat or velocity to turn that big of a compressor with that small of a turbine. I'm surprised you can run that turbo without it surging.. I think your turbo is your issue. The 65 turbine is usually a fast spooling wheel paired with a 62 compressor. It spools in the realm of 13-1500 rpm. The 66 compressor is meant for spooling at 2000-2200 rpm. While one is getting past its sweet spot, the other isn't even in its sweet spot yet.

Not sure, but I don't think so. Yes to change tunes, but there is only one tune (the factory Quadzilla one) when you open the box. Yes, but the mini module has no custom tuning.

I run both with my tablet and without. Depends on trip length and what I want to keep an eye on. The fuel pressure sensor/sender is the only separate piece. But the wiring is already there in the Quad harness. Mostly I'm just using the quad to data log my sled pulls since its hard to glance at the regular gauges will going wide open with 20-40k in tow while on dirt.

Just remember to get the most up to date versions. They had recalls on that stuff early on. For my truck I'm looking at potentially a crossover setup. I've been doing a fair amount of digging on it and there are things I like and don't like about them. Most of it comes down to the bump steer issue and adjustability. I think the bump steer issue can be solved with good measurements and a 3rd gen track bar. The adjustability issues are due to the fact that we cant run a straight bar. Diff cover gets in the way. Either live with half turns on the heims, or measure really well. Possible option is to make a center adjustment, similar to a turnbuckle. Need to ponder some more and I'm not dead set on it either.

Anyone had snow yet? Northeast with one or two rain storms went from summer to fall over night. But even fall is still on the warm side, 70s this week still. Supposed to be in the 60s for October. Lowest was 45°F so far, so I know frosts are going to be here soon. Still haven't turned the heat on in my apartment.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-24v-performance/59210-bomb-proof-bolt-2nd-gen-steering-cheap.html For later 2nd gens only, the tapers seem to match from 2000 all the way to 2013. I think after that they went to the crossover/split linkage setup:

@Great work!, Any progress on this? I'm curious to know if you stumbled across any more secrets..

Still running too small of a tire for 4.10s technically. (285/70r17) That's part of the issue. My cruise might be too advanced still but I haven't had the time to futz with it. Now that I don't have a sled pull every weekend I can take care of some of the issues that have come up since starting pulling. Finished our season this past Saturday. Looks like I made 3rd overall for work stock in my first year. Running down one of the highways coming back from the pull last Saturday, I was watching my oil temps and they were still slowly creeping up to 210°F. Was running 65mph, which is almost 2100 rpm. Think I was running 21° of timing. Thinking I have to pull that back a degree or two. Thoughts? My oil temp sending unit is in the same spot as your Mike. I tried a run with just my base timing (no cruise advance) one day a while ago and nothing changed. I'm guessing I'm running into the tires being the issue first. But I'm getting the flatland cruise EGTs really low with the advancement right now. Sub 500°F, but hit the throttle and right up to 700-800°. That's not even passing temps. Over the winter is gonna be a new worked over head, injectors, and a turbo for power. Traction bars, bump stops, and u-joint shields for traction and safety. And new tires because that's where I'm becoming limited more so than power. Thinking of running a road set and a pulling set. Road set would be 35" all terrains and the pulling set would be 33" light mud or aggressive all terrains.

Well I get the dunce cap this time around. I changed my oil yesterday because I'm at mileage for the change. Well, only a gallon of oil came out. So with the blue smoking at startup and after idling for a bit, and some help on here, determined it was bad seals and/or valve guides. Well I checked the oil a while ago (6 months or so, too long I know) and it was fine. Drained the oil and only a gallon came out. Well sh!t. So I started looking around at some of the issues I made a note to look into after pulling season is done and found that the dampness around the oil cooler is not a re-blown head gasket but is in fact oil being blown out of the exhaust manifold at cylinder 1. My last sled pull is tomorrow so after that I'm going to have to do a long hard look over my truck and make a list. And its already quite long. My engine was only slightly more clackety and engine oil pressure never dropped low low but I thought I sheared the oil to be honest and that's why pressure was low. Possibly my only other indication, and I need to go on a drive to figure this out, was my oil temps were constantly high. Doing 65 down the highway/freeway I would run 210° oil temps, no matter the timing.

The Johnny Joint is a purchased part so its whatever Currie decides to send with them.. DOR usually stocks those, kind of surprised that it took that long. Hope its from the pandemic and he's not slipping back into old habits..

Word of advice, swap the zerk fitting for a 45° or 90° one, and face it towards the bar. The straight one doesn't clear the bracket axle side on my truck. cant get the grease gun to quite lock on and just gets grease everywhere except in the Johnny Joint. @IBMobile, what are the odds the left turn issue is in the cab by the steering shaft or something like that? There's not really wiring anywhere else that would contact the steering.. unless I'm mistaken. @MarkG could you upload a video to YouTube going up your driveway or similar so we can see and hear what the truck is doing?

What was this? the Answer to what mopar1973man is running or what you put in? I thought you ordered that GXE Screaming Eagle... yes to mikes setup, and no, I'm still running an HX35.

Did you look at all of your grounds for them being loose? The one under the drivers battery has seemed notorious for coming loose recently. Might explain the left turn cut out too. After actually reading your thread, you rewired your truck? to what extent? It really sounds like a wire being pinched or moving with the body/frame.. Check your track bar for being loose. Cause number one of death wobble. Ball joints are second I think.

When I'm sled pulling I have maxed out CanBus and full 2200us of wire tap with my 7x.0085 (50s) injectors. At the end of the pull, the EGTs level out at 1150°F. But that's all the fuel I have right now. My stock HX35 still manages to clean most (over 80%) of the smoke up while going down the track. @Sycostang67, I think you are running into the too much timing issue with the Edge stuff. The quad will help but you have to spend some time to tweak it to your truck. @Evan, while I think you are right on some aspects, I disagree on others. The quad programming will help put timing timing closer to where it needs to be to make more power and keep heat down. But its also not a magic fix. If you're running 7x015s on a factory charger dont expect to run with no smoke by putting a Quad on (extreme example). That being said, I Don't feel like the GX-E is a "performance" turbo. I feel like its a "factory upgrade" or "factory plus". If you have like 50s or RV275s and a CanBus only tuner then its perfect. But if you are gonna go to 100s or more just go straight to a 62/65/12 or one of its other variants. I got my brother one (62/65/12) for his truck as a birthday or Christmas present. He has a ppump 24v and really old +75s (possibly, bought it like that, don't actually know what they are) with moderately high timing (low to mid 20s). The turbo helped cool of his truck from burying a 1600 EGT gauge with an HX35 to maxing out at 1300°F. It spools a bit slower (15-1800 is when the boost gauge starts moving) but I think that has more to do with his timing than the turbo. The 62/68/12 is probably gonna spool at the same time as the 62/65/14 but it might help with high rpm exhaust flow.

I think he means dirt.. like a payloader or bulldozer.. I hope.. In my life I've only had 2 or 3 storms that stand out. All of them were at or over 24 inches.. Everything else has been in the dusting to just under a foot. the 14-18 inch stuff sucks but still happens at least once a year. We had 2 of those 24" plus storms in one year so roads got really narrow and became hope and pray when pulling into traffic..

Only have issues if the governor shuts the state down/emergency vehicles only. Im in the fire dept so i get half a pass.. also really small town so there a town constable and 3 town cops.. not a lot of presence..

HX35/40 hybrid and 7x010s

The only "weak" part of the head is right around the thermostat housing. Large majority of us on here and other forums have had the head gasket fail there. If you can lift the head with head studs you are way outside of working pressures.. 7x012s while they would do what you are implying, would probably not clean up and run very warm with that turbo, unless you pull them way way way back in canbus but you might run into a pulling way to much power to keep smoke down that you loose the benefit of the bigger injectors.. The smaller injectors would also help keep egts down while towing. Compunds are an option if you are dead set on the 7x012s.. they will help if you want to use the full amount of fuel 7x012s have

There's a reason that blizzards and in some cases, snow squalls, they tell everyone to stay home. Dry powder snow gets lofted easily with wind combined with 1 inch plus an hour snow fall rates can drop your visibility to nothing. Causes a white out condition. And it can happen in an instant. True fogs (wide and short beam, placed low on the vehicle) in amber or yellow are the best against falling/blowing snow. Since we are getting to that time of the year, one night when its snowing, try driving with just the fog lights. It's impressive how much better the beam cuts under the snow and how little reflected light gets back to you. The projectors are actually pretty good in the snow because of the cutoff. Less light to bounce off/back at you that isn't helping see down the road.

So NASA or aliens can track you from outer space with all that.. Not bad.. Those 100w spot lights have the nickname of retina burners. I get this because on my way back from a sled pull that got rained out, I hit a heavier spot of rain while headed home. Couldn't see the lines at all. But I was lighting up the bumper of my brothers truck in front of me and I could see some of the light being reflected off the raindrops.. That had me slightly nervous, not being able to tell what lane I was in. I wonder what does this, its either color rendering index (CRI), contrast, or something else. I mean they sell the night driving glasses that are yellow, claiming increased contrast.. There also must be some truth due to racing in multiple forms using yellow/amber lights while night racing.. I know hid goes all the way down to 3000k which is yellow, but just up from that is the 4300k which is "oem white." I wonder how that performs inclement weather wise versus the 5000k that i run in my projectors..

If its not leaking, I wouldn't touch the head beyond putting head studs in. You can replace them in one at a time. To be honest, I'm (personally) on the fence with your situation. I've seen people with just threading studs in one at a time go and push 60+ with a much bigger turbo. But with my Edge EZ and 50s (7x008) I was doing 30-35 psi when I romped on it, with an HX35. Smaller to yours in every way except exhaust housing size (and even then.. but that's a turbo theory discussion for another time). I never put studs in until my head gasket started weeping out the side in the semi usual spot and had to swap it.. 7x012s (250s ± 50hp) and a 62/68/12 are a solid but very hot 500-550hp combo, possibly higher. What are you doing with the truck? If towing heavy all the time id suggest a slightly smaller set of injectors. If hot rodding around, by all means run them. Just to put this out there too, you could also run a much larger turbo with 250s.. 64.5/73.4/12, smaller 66 turbo, 64/68/14, and similar. The 62/68/12 is geared more towards 100-200hp injectors. I also know that the 62/65/12 is a well liked turbo and pairs really well with 150s. @Mopar1973Man is running them with a 60/60/12 HX35/40 hybrid, and can blister the tires in multiple gears... Not trying to dissuade you from doing what you want to do, just wanting to make sure you don't have a hot, smoky, worse mpg mess than when you started.

I've never understood the snow/ice over argument. I've have halogens ice up, I've seen the LEDs ice up, my d2s projectors also have iced up. The projectors have kept a hole about the size of a quarter at the very center of the beam pattern of the lens from icing over but that was it. The smart heat ones are the only ones that for sure wont ice over https://www.jwspeaker.com/products/#application[]=automotive&product_category[]=headlights. I'm happy with my projectors but I have had issues, mostly self inflicted. High beams for the projectors I'm not wowed by. It's a flood type pattern, so everything really close is lit up well but further away you lose a lot of the light. I wish it was more of a driving/spot type pattern that punches out in the distance. The sport edition headlights worked like that. outer set were low beam, nice and wide pattern, switch to high beam and the outer ones switched to high beam and the inner bulbs came on. The outers maintained the wide pattern but brought it up a bit higher, while the inner bulbs cast a centered spot type light that went farther out. I think when people try to start getting the low beam filament of the high beam bulb on when on low or get all 4 filaments in the housing going at the same time is when the pattern gets messy.. I do know that when i went from factory to a set of tyco or tyc housings on my old 1500 that I used to have the pattern wasn't as tight and the high beam was less spot and more wide, but still had a longer range punch. Kind of want to try a set with the Morimoto mLED 2.0 projector but those are expensive. It would be about a grand for the new headlights with those.. My dream set would be the mLED 2.0 with the LED high beam projector from Morimoto but I don't think there's physically enough room with the way the headlight is shaped. Would need to redesign the back half of the housing and do custom turn signals.. TL;DR is if you are keeping the truck get a set of retroshop.us projectors. If not, like @Dieselfuture said, try some of the more inexpensive options and see if you find something you like for the time being.