jshmohr

I used the oem tool and it went in like a glove worked awsome

I put a 14 micron filter on it now, I don't know if the fuel line is colapsing, and its been in the low 20's to teens but the truck has been in the garage where my engine coolant temp has been around 60 degrees:shrug:

Yeh I seemed to help but my pump still has been blowing the 30 amp fuse when the truck is cold any ideas? The pump will run for about 15 seconds then blow the fuse I can put a new fuse in and have no problem?

Hey guys this summer I was very proud of myself and found a 2 micron fass 150 fuel filter from my NAPA store! Little did I know it was the wrong filter I put the 2 micron for the water separator! Well in the last few days here in Minnesota it has been dropping into the low 20's and when I have been starting my truck in the morning it would run for a minute and blow the 30 amp fuse that runs the pump:shrug: So what I finally found out after calling Fass a couple of times is that my filter was drawing fuel to hard through that fine of filter, so I spun on a 14 micron Napa #3405 and hopefully all my problems are gone!

Yeh my trans was rebuilt 1 1/2 yrs ago with new oem solenoid but not the borg warner one that is what I think I am going to try, thanks!

Yeh my trans sometimes does this to. I was told to change the solenoid to a borg warner or the gm converted one and this would fix my problem:shrug:

Now my truck started to do this and my check engine light came on and tach quit. But it left a crank sensor code, I havent fixed it yet it just happened but the thing I dont't understand is when the tach quits I have my attitude monitor to check rpms and it reads the right rpms so dont they use the same sensor or what dose the attitude use to monitor rpms?

Yeh I like my Prodigy but they are not cheap, but have a lifetime warranty. Also if you have a NAPA close I sell alot of the Pilot controllers and they are much cheaper and guys really like them:thumb1:

Hey will this work if the hinge holding the cup holder up broke?

Yeh and the 5w40 extreme sythetic for $23.99:thumb1:

Have you tried replacing the radiator cap? I know it sounds stupid but when I put a new one on my temp stayed way more consistant.

I know I have a Fass not a AD but same pricipals. About a year ago I had the same problem and I fought it for a couple of days, finally I took a full 5 gallon fuel can and took the supply line off at the fuel tank and sumerged it into the fuel can and then tried to prime the pump and bingo. Found out the stock fuel pickup was sucking air inside the tank. So then had to order the draw straw, installed that and primed right up but had allready junked the VP in the process:banghead: but fixed the pickup problem, good luck:thumb1:

Cool thanks for the input, like I said my local stock diesel class allows a 2.5 turbo, right now I am trying to convince them we need a workstock class so a guy dosent need a 600+hp truck to compete:thumb1:

Yeh if I go that way bigger sticks are in order but right now I am trying to convince my local pulling association that we neen a work stock class, but thanks for the info that is what I was wondering is how much I would need to compete with these guys:thumb1:

Hey guys my local truck pulling rules say that in the stock diesel class you can run a 2.5 turbo and I was wondering what you guys think would be the best turbo, thanks:thumb1:

Now I use to think this but one day at work we had a brake pad engineer come by and he said that is incorrect. the cheap pads are not softer they are just not as dense, meaning they don't have as much braking material in them i.e. the stuff that helps you stop. I put the cheap ones in my truck once and it felt like in a hard breaking situation I would have to put both feet on the pedal. Now the mid grade pads are a very good choice but they still will not stop as good as the oem ones. Now if you are pulling a trailer alot you should look at sever duty pads, now these will be hard on the rotors and make some noise but you don't have to worry about stopping. Now the best pad I would recommend are NAPA (of course) Ultra-Premium pads#UP7339M, we sell them for around $54 and these pads are the same formula as the oem ones:2cents:

So now on my fass 150 I use a NAPA#3422 that on thier websit says its a 2micron and a NAPA #1202 that on thier website is a 5micron are these good filters or what:shrug:? Thanks:thumb1:

So it just plugs in and uses the oem speakers?

Hey I think it is about time to ditch the casette player and upgrade to a newer radio that may has a ipod jack and satallite radio but was wondering how difficult this swap would be. See my truck has the infinity speakers that have the big connector on them so do I need new speakers also? Thanks

Yeh you need to add more fluid I think mine holds close to 20quarts but I have a aftermarket cooler and 1/2" hydraulic lines for cooler lines, but I think a stock fillup is 18 quarts

Yeh most everything I have ever herd is nobody like Fram but if they are working for you go with what works:2cents:

Yeh that sounds good, where is the dyno day at?

So what is the best direction to go the gm solinoid, trans controller or what I need to fix mine and about 3 other people I know with the same problem:thumb1:

Hey was wondering if anyone installed a auxillary trans filter, like a spin on hydraulic filter. What micron and flow would a guy need? Thanks:thumb1:

Maybe we can get a government grant to do some fuel milage reserch:lol: