NIsaacs

During seal install, are you getting the weep hole in the down position? https://torqueking.com/product/50171/qu50171-booted-rear-output-seal-for-98-02-np241dhd-transfer-cases/#note1

That's the trouble with the oem temp gauge, it is hard to tell what the temp really is. A guess might be 10* off. If you were at 210* all is well, if you were 220*, then, yes it is a little warm. I assume you are running the oem 190* t-stat? Is it a Cummins stat? My clutch comes on at 208* with a Cummins 180* stat, I really like the 180. Everything associated with the engine is running 10* cooler. Fuel temp, IAT, even the transmission. Prior to, I was having all kinds of overheating issues. I used 180 and 190 aftermarket, they were terrible. It cruises at 183* seems to close at 177* and opens about 187* I have a CTS monitor with digital gauges. Does your clutch come on at low speed/rpm, such as in town with the AC on? Your truck sounds good, boost and EGT's mirror mine on level 2, tow mode, same as EZ.

Where are you getting your seals? I wonder if aftermarket is not quite right. I have replaced several also. This is the current offering from NP/NV. https://torqueking.com/product/10896/qu10896-np241dhd-rear-output-seal-1996-2002-dodge-transfer-cases/ It supersedes this one. https://torqueking.com/product/50171/qu50171-rear-o-p-shaft-seal/

This looks like it will fit: https://torqueking.com/product/90025/qu90025-rear-output-bushing-heavy-duty-241-261-263-transfer-cases/ https://torqueking.com/product/10586/tk10586-dodge-np241-transfer-case-rear-housing-shim-gasket/

Del Norte is in the San Luis Valley @ 7900' elevation, yet it is up hill out of there in any direction I lived there in 1991, hauling logs out of Saguache, west of town. We hauled them into South Fork.

For you it probably is, not so for a first timer. To suggest it is, might get someone over there head. If they are so simple why do we see complaint after complaint on rebuilt boxes? A good book with specs is a must, it is not something you want to tackle, blind.

Really easy? I wouldn't say that, and I have rebuilt numerous boxes from pickups to big trucks. Really easy, is misleading to a first timer, even if he is an experienced DIY. An FSM will be needed. My local NAPA has seal kits in stock. You can get output, input or a master kit.

I recommend changing your fluid to this. It stopped my right turn groan noise that I have had forever, this is hot or cold. I also changed out my '91. Also added filters to both trucks.

If all you do are injectors (no EZ) you will need a boost fooler and boost elbow, minimum. There is a used boost fooler on this site in the classifieds.

Sometimes the soft plug in the end of the yoke can leak, next to the u-joint.

Thanks pepsi, for explaining your experience with your truck, your needs and why (location). What it amounts to is you need a custom set of injectors, not your normal run of the mill offerings from multiple vendors. Pulling your injectors at 33k miles fit your wants and needs and you were fine with that. However, this is not going to happen for most owners. Also, rebuilt high hp injectors are not all created equal, some are junk right out of the box. When I need new ones I will go with another set of new Bosch 275's. Then I will run them another 300-400k miles and never pull the valve cover Again, thank you for not getting upset because I questioned some ones policy/suggestion.

Humm, why would you single out the 24 valve. Like I said, injectors are mostly the same, the part that matters, is. Why would you disturb a perfectly good sealed and operating injector, thats asking for issues. Rather than using a sub certified pop tester, I will leave mine alone. Maybe you didn't recommend the practice but you did indorse it. I am happy everyday, thanks. I stand by everything I said and why. In my 50 year history of owning, working on them and operating (diesels) I have never seen or read about this practice...so yes...there are times I question internet lore. Enjoy your day.

To do this would require your rig to be down for a week, or having a spare set of injectors. Do you really think this is going to happen? It is not a 15 minute job....depending on the make and model it can be a serious undertaking. What about warranty issues messing with a new rig? It is okay if you want to do this but to recommend it?? What does Cummins, Mopar, Bosch or even DAP say? What about all the other makes and models of diesels? If this practice pertains to a second gen. 24 valve, it should pertain to all. Injectors are pretty much the same.

To prevent what? If I did that on mine, that would be 10 times (300k) Even spark plugs go 100k miles now. That would be every 3 months on most busy hot shot trucks, not to mention all the big trucks, ag equipment, construction and stationary equipment. Injectors are not that fragile....

For the money spent and the lack of necessary supporting mods, I would go with an Edge EZ and RV injectors. The EZ does the boost fooling and comes with a boost elbow for the wastegate hose. The RV's are new Bosch, so most vendors don't require a core. I used this combo for 12 years on my '01. OEM clutch, lift pump and turbo. It dynode 335 hp. 300k miles later, I am still running the RV injectors, 4 years on the Edge Juice.

Neutral safety switch?

I agree. These trucks will run fine and a long time without huge fuel pumps, lines and special filters. 330k miles on my '01 oem VP. Stock lift pumps for years, Napa filters, stock lines. 12 years on RV injectors and Edge EZ. Now 4 years on an Edge Juice with Raptor 100 gph lift pump. I just helped a fellow TDR member drop his fuel tank. His complaint was almost zero fuel pressure with all systems working as they should. This is what we found! We installed a new fuel module and are confident the truck is fixed.

The issue with Dodge is the placement of the motor mount, it is on the sidewall of the block where it is thin. Other equipment used a bellhousing mount. Automatic trucks are not as prone to cracking as standards. My '01 has a 56 block but I still cringe when I have to launch a heavy load uphill or in soft ground.

Most 8 bolt wheel axles are 6-7k with a 6 bolt on the 5200 lbs axle. All are 3" tubes, some may have a thicker tube wall. Do the other two axles have brakes? That's good the Dodge wheels will fit, my '01 is wrong for a trailer.

Nothing sounds as good as an old 275 with the back draft manifold. I had one turned up to a 320 that would stand fire about 12" out the stack. The first time I saw the glow in my mirror, I got goosebumps! This was in a '65 off highway KW that had a log loader mounted on it. It originally was an old South West Forest log truck that they hauled logs into their McNary, Arizona saw mill. This old guy out of Jerome, AZ has one in a '47 KB12 IH, cool video. Part 1 talks about him building it. He has 20 acres of antiques. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UB4jxD1cEs PT. one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyT073WNUwI

I feel good everyday, 400 hp is not required. FYI, the dyno sheets are on level 5, I still have level 6 (hot unlock)…. 2001 ETH/DEE factory 6 spd/1-3/8" input shaft. My HO pump is factory original. I have no problem with high RPM's when needed, such as uphill acceleration with a heavy load. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHRZMA3Gsfk

Back up for you, Mr. Ben....

Make sure the Dodge wheels will fit before you buy tires for them. I think the 1st gen will work but 2nd gen and later wont. The offset will cause the tire to hit the spring/frame before they seat on the hub.

Okay, that helps. You said a 3 axle so I assumed you needed 6. What do you have on it now and how have they held up? Do you haul often or heavy? Before ST arrived, I always used LT take offs from my dually, then install new on the truck. Since I bought the '01 Dodge I didn't have the right size so I started buying ST's. I have used a bunch over the years and have really not had any luck with 10 ply. I haul heavy and often. Keep in mind mounting cost. I did buy a set of 12 ply Carlisle tires and they were doing good when I sold my Big Tex dump. I had a lot of heavy loads on it. I bought them from Simple Tire and mounted them myself. It took me a long time of failures before I would cough up $200 per tire, gasp I am a slow learner sometimes, Lol.

I have used my share of China Bombs in ST trailer tires. What I have found is that the cheaper they are the shorter the life span, some to the point they will blow out on the spare rack or even on the trailer axle. If you can buy 6 tires for $320, I would pass. Here are some pictures of my oem Gladiators that my last 2 Load Trail, trailers had, both sets are less than 3 years old. First one is separating and the second blew out sitting. I have replaced both sets with Hercules 14 ply all steel H-901. One set is ST @4400 lbs rated and one set is LT @ 3750 rated. The ST's are $200 each and the LT's are $215. I also moved up from 235/80Rx16 to 235/85R16.