dave110

I don't know mush about the Adrenalin, but can you keep the same timing/fuel setting but just back down the power level? If so and it still does it then you'd know its the settings in the Adrenalin. If not then, well, lets just say it's a never ending game this power game

I'll share my experience since it's similar to yours then you can take it for what it's worth. Back when I had an XZT+ if I towed in the +60HP setting the TC would chatter so I only towed in the +30 setting. As it got worse the +60 would slip the TC with an empty truck but dial back to +30 and all was well. It didn't do it all the time, only when it locked up under heavy throttle. And this is with 215-85's. Now you were messing with your tune adding fuel and timing, ie. horsepower, and now it shudders. Back off and it's OK again? Same as my situation dialing back to +30 and no chatter. My TC was right on the edge where 60HP would slip it but it would hold 30. After a new billet TC and some valve body work I have no issues even though I stepped up to an Edge Comp. I understand what your saying about timing and fuel causing a surge but what you describe does not sound like a surge, to me at least. Maybe start a new thread about tuning the Adrenalin if you're thinking it's more of a tuning issue.Just a thought

Yep

Sounds like the torque converter slipping to me.

Or even on the next corner for that matter

Hence my avatar.....

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/99-5-9-with-an-01-engine.2497701/post-28949141 Here is some more interesting reading. I find the end result hard to believe but there's a lot of info. there.

Did you see this?

My 02 300M is shifting weird, hanging in gear, and threw a P1776 code. Some solenoid malfuctiong. Can anybody tell me in plain english what it is?

My very first vehicle was a '77 shortbed, 3spd. column shift and a 250ci. Later on I had a '67 long bed stepside 3/4 ton. paid $1000, drove for 5 years and sold for $1000. I'd love to have that one back.

I need a square body Chevy like that.

Just what I needed to know. Thanks guys!!

I need to cut out and replace the coil spring buckets due to rust. I remember reading here that a spring compresser isn't needed if you remove this and that and support the frame while dropping the axle. As I prepare to do this I'd like a refresher. What all gets removed? Can I do both at one time or one then the other? Any other tricks or tips on replacing the buckets? TIA

I would like to be your friends friend!

Not far. It's on the bottom right under the gloves.

I usually check the tires, check the oil, and make sure I have some TP in the door pocket and hit the road.

You know why dogs do that don't you? v v v v v Cause they can.............

My uncle was a used farm machinery dealer in the 50's-80's. He used to run Ohio a lot. I'm not sure exactly where but Dad used to run truck tractor to Archibald for him. I wouldnt doubt those tractors were on his truck at some point. My buddy has a Super C with a fast hitch buck saw. Nice setup. Runs off the back flat pulley. I borrowed it one year when I had a bunch of slab wood and smaller branches to cut. Sure saves my old back. But you'd better be on your game when using it. Those things were invented before OSHA was around

Nice. Those old Farmalls did a LOT of work over the years. The green stuff usually gets the most credit though. A Harris sitting there too. Is that a 44? I'd love to have a buck saw for my firewood operation but I don't have a flat belt tractor and the PTO adapters are soooo expensive if you can find one at all. Here's one of mine

Good deal. Hey, thanks for the beer

Wow. You took that different than I meant it. It wasn't even aimed directly at you, which is why I didn't quote your post as you said. I surely offended you though and for that I'm sorry. Didn't mean to ruin your evening.

Mechanical things are built for a lifetime of service. Interesting theory. The vacuum pump is mechanical. Mine didn't last a lifetime. In fact if mechanical things lasted a lifetime then my 53 block wouldn't have cracked, my torque converter wouldn't have wore out, my unit bearings wouldn't have came apart, and my dash wouldn't have fell apart swapping out my heater core that never would have leaked. As far as electrical failures on my truck I did replace a window motor once. Oh, and an alternator but only because the pulley nut came off and the threads got messed up when it and the pulley took off for the other side of the earth. Really that was a mechanical failure too. Anything that moves can, does and will fail at some point or we wouldn't all be here sharing info. on how to fix it. I don't want to start a war but I don't think it's fair to say a mechanical pump will last forever and an electric one will have problems. I'm usually the exception to the rule but I just have not had the issues everyone seems to have with electric LP's. I guess once the belt drives are around as long as the motor drives then we'll have a better idea on how long they last.

If I wanted to do it I would do one of two things. Either get a later model mirror w/ signal built in, or get a real mirror like a stainless tripod or West Coast Jr. style and hang a red/amber signal on it. I just can't see how bolting something on to these cheap azz plastic shaking mirrors would last very long. There's several folks around who fit 3rd and I believe 4th gen mirrors.

Deleting cookies must wreak havoc on spell check