dave110

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/17505-downtime/?do=getNewComment

Might have been Doug. Gave me an education over the phone too. Seems codes are of little help with a VP44 unless the timing piston sticks or the PSG computer goes bad. Let us know how you make out.

By the looks of your mods you are pretty well educated and I don't mean to tell you things you already know. But this sounds like my truck a few years back. I was sure it was a loss of prime issue and replaced all the possible seals, orings, sealing washers. No help. Then my LP pressure seemed a little high. I unplugged it and it would start right up. Even wired it to the power window fuse ( through a second relay so the ECM still had control when running) and it helped for a while. Just an intermitant hard start. Finally called BlueChip just to talk. He was so sure it was my IP he said If it didn't fix it I could send it back no charge. Hard to beat that. A new VP44 fixed the problem and it never came back. Don't mean to scare you, just wanted to share my experience.

Yes they can. If the o-rings wear they can cause a siphon effect in the return side. Same effect as any leak in the return line.

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/ Here's a link to the OBD codes and trouble shooting. Quickly looking through they are all voltage related except the 216 which means the timing piston is froze in the pump and cannot reach full advance. Often caused by low fuel pressure, and you have a lift pump code too. AC noise is dirty power being produced by the alternator. It wreaks havoc on the electronics in vehicles and these trucks especially. There's an article on how to test for it in the articles section.

If you read through the PO118 article it has trouble shooting steps to follow. What is your fuel pressure? What other codes come up?

I suspect a wiring issue.

Same with my Chrysler 300M. Need to take the front wheel off to get the battery out. There's even a plastic access door there. Then remote lugs for charging/jumping. And it's an 02. Makes it real easy to check the water in the battery. At least it took GM 12 more years before they stuck their head up their a&$

Found 2 ways searching Google. The 188D is a 4cyl engine. Alt. nut won't turn it over (tiny V belt) but Case used their heads and broached a 1/2" square drive in the crank nose. Turning over until #4 ex. closes and in. just starts to open (overlap) #1 can be adjusted. then #2 for #3 and #1 for #4. I set them using this method. Then there is the rule of 9 method. looking at the engine from the front the first valve is #1, second #2 and so on. When #1 is down you can adjust #8. 8+1=9. Then when #2 is down you can adjust #7. 7+2=9 and so on. I double checked them using this method and they were very close. Like within .001". It's much quiter now and seems to start better too.

I have an 1835B with a diesel I'd like to adjust the valves on. There's so little room around the timing cover to find the mark. I seem to remember there being a way to do it without needing the timing mark. A method called the over/under method or something like that. Somewhere I saw it as an alternative and supposedly better method to check the valves on our Cummins or any inline diesel. Can anyone enlighten me?

While the running the engine will blow out the chips, drilling on top of a hot ,vibrating engine did not appeal to me. Here's what I did. My hole is where @015point9's diagram shows. I drilled my pilot hole almost but not quite through. Then the tap drill the same way. Now 90% of the chips are already cut before you break through. You have a little less the 1/4" to work with. Then I greased the drill bit and put my shop vac spout right at the hole and drilled the rest of the way through. I greased the tap also and ran the vac to catch all chips that I could. When done I stuck a pencil magnet in the hole like you mentioned and fished around. Very few chips got caught. This worked well for me.

Good job! And thanks for the good pics. They will certainly help the next guy out. I made my own seal puller on a lathe. Never would have thought about using a hole saw. I like that idea. Some day I'll need to do the other side. Not looking forward to pulling the carrier. Gear sets scare me.

True. The bag wouldn't help her. But it would do us a BIG favor!

Me too

I hate tablets........

At least Pelosi has to wear one too. She's never looked better

Gotta get our temp taken and wear a mask all day at work now. Getting a little old.

I've never felt more agreeable than now.

Oh how I'd like to help out here! Nope, I won't. I'll just get into more trouble @Mopar1973Man, can you make it so that I can give @dripley a like, a ha ha, and a thanks all in one post? Just this one post?

Sorry if I sent you on a wild goose chase. My Data link connector is definately in the front of the engine where I described, not back at the fuel filter. My Comp is also plugged into it, as was my XZT+. Maybe my trucks a one off. Or difference in years. Sorry for the confusion.

Data link PLUG is in the front of the engine. Mine is triangular in shape. Your year may be different. MAP SENSOR is what is beside the ECM above the lift pump. The wiring harness on the tuning box T's into the MAP wiring. In other words you unplug the factory plug from the MAP, plug the Quad wiring into the MAP, then plug the factory wire into the other end of the Quad T adapter. This way the Quad can intercept the signal going from the MAP to the engine computer and modify it as it sees fit. Hope I didn't confuse you. My typing aint so good.

Data link is not used unless needed and yes I do believe mine had a mating dummy plug to protect it from the elements. Data link plug is kinda hard to spot. It's on the drivers side of the engine up front like around the steering box area below the battery. Somewhere in that general area. The Quad box plugs into the data link plug and into the MAP sensor

Sure looks like a MAP sensor adapter to me. Some year trucks used an oval sensor while others were round, and tuner box manufacturers make adapters to fit whichever you need. That box to me looks like a Quadzilla XZT to me. That's a little 3 position switch on the end of the gray wire right?

Oley. Welcome. I get through there quite a bit. Beautiful area. Does it rev up all the way and then settle in to an idle and work fine after that? If so I would think a leaky injector(s) or turbo leaking fuel or oil respectively over time and burning that off on startup. A form of a runaway. A 24v in a swap can be a chore with the electronics. How are you controlling the APPS? Not sure if you have a way to read codes but if you can start there.

You replied while I was editing LOL. See above.