dave110

Either a gauge pod or 1/2 a six pack.

That's the news we love to hear. Thanks for updating! Now here's a little trick I learned coming here. Clean them nasty ole terminals up and coat them with motor oil. They'll never corrode again

Here's my story with that issue. My gauges would flake out at will. Sometimes the tach would go first, sometimes the speedo, but usually all gauges would die and all dummy lights come on. I'd also always get a no bus message on the odo that would start out flashing and then get solid. I started noticing a pattern, that being it would often fail and then fix itself after a bump. Soon I could usually fix it by hitting the cluster or dash top with my fist. Busted my bezel trim that way. I knew then something was loose so I pulled the cluster and like you said the plugs just sit there. I believe that over time the plastic clips that hold the plugs relax and they become loose. So I put some dielectric grease in them and stuck a toothpic (because that was the first thing I found that looked about right) behind the plug between the plug and the dash base. This tightened it up and now when the cluster gets put in it pushes into the plugs instead of pushing the plugs away and not seating correctly. That was back in spring and the problem has never come back. That being said I did NOT have a DTC like you do so might be another issue. Oh, and CFA has toothpics for free.

Sorry, couldn't resist

If it were mine I would check codes first. Then you could remove the 12v+ and 12v- trigger wires from the relays and jump them to the battery and see if the relays energize or not. That would tell you if it's a bad relay or a a bad signal to tell the relay to come on. Reason I say jump both pos. and neg. is I've been told that some years switched the pos. relay wire and some years switched the neg. one. I never did confirm that though.

Codes? If it's just a cold start that smoke should clear up in a short while. I think there's something else going on, not sure what though.

At 40 deg. mine starts just fine without grid heaters. Runs rough for a few seconds and straightens out. Does yours start but stay running rough, or not start at all? I'll check again to be sure but I'm pretty certain my lite won't come on when the relays are disabled. Can you read battery voltage through the Quad. like I can with my Scangage? If so you can see if they are on or not because it will pull down into the 10-11 volt range. You can see it on the dash gauge too. Any codes in it?

I have my relays switched so I can turn them off when I don't want them. When turned off the WTS lite does not come on. Does your lift pump come on for a second or 2 when the key is turned on? Does the truck start? If not these are tell tell sings of a failing or failed ECM. What year truck?

I thought this is how they re-tire?

Picked up this one up for the Ranger. Glad to see where it was made.

I'll bet that's it. Only 1 black wire going to it. The radio plays good with no noise since I found and fixed a rubbed through speaker wire. I might just forget about it.

Hmmm. I have that stuff. But without an extension on the stem it's too close to the tire to get on it straight. Both my gauge and chuck are that way. Unless the angle on mine is too shallow?

Looking around under the hood and noticed a homeless wire. I found where it came from. There's a thing that looks like a condenser as in points and condenser (showing my age here) off to the side of the coil pack. It's circled in blue in the picture. What is this thing called and what does it do? Truck runs fine without it but I'd like to get a new one.

I'll have to look to be sure. I figured it was a binding caliper but new calipers, hoses, cleaned slides didn't fix it. And the wheel doesn't drag either. I've noticed variations in the re-man calipers I've gotten over the years.

We don't need a front plate in PA. The Wyo. plate comes from an inlaw that lives out there. It's just a vanity plate of sorts for me. I like the bucking horse .

It appears the NV has an external slave then? The Mazda is internal and I'm pretty sure the trans has to come out to change it. Kind of makes this method N/A for my application but would work well if everything is getting replaced.

I noticed unexplainable uneven wear on my 99 as well. Gonna have to check it out. Thanks Pepsi!

Solid. 1.5", just on the outside tire to enable using a standard dually chuck. Truck came with plastic ones. They had to go. I bought the most expensive ones National Auto had on the shelf. IIRC these are brass. I've had no issues even in the mud and hay fields I run but I'd like to see this offset chuck mentioned.

Go with a standard pump. You have a Quad. No need for a hot rod pump. I believe most here would agree. I see OFI is on the certified rebuilders list. If all that's bad is the PSG why not have them put a new one on, recalibrate, and send it back? Did they even offer that? Should be a cheaper alternative.

Thanks. So it's safe to assume that a Mazda transmission and NV can be bled in the same manner?

Spicer was junk for me. I went to ACD and so far so good. I was all amped up when I got some made in USA parts from them only to be let back down when I got something else that was Taiwanese made. Like DF said, it's a gamble

Nice. I've found with mine it fits nicely on top of the cup holder and has a slight interference fit so it doesn't move. It's a little low to look at down there though.

Recently picked up a 93 Ranger with a 5 speed. The clutch line was replaced before I bought it and I don't think all the air is bled out. Anybody know the proper procedure for bleeding? As usual I'm finding conflicting info. on the net and I tend to trust you guys more than the general internet public. TIA.

Mine were that way when I bought it. No more. A little never seize goes a long way. I'd also like to see a picture of an offset gauge and chuck that allows access without extensions. I've been running with extensions for 11 years now without ever an issue but I've never really felt comfortable with them.