dave110

That's probably what I'll do if I ever do it. Skip the whole 3 gen. all together.

As loose as the steering is on my truck I have NEVER had DW either. I have all new or good front end parts, but it's still not what I'd call precise steering. Heck my 67 c-20 with 10.5-31's was way tighter than this truck ever was or will be. I learned to get used to it and it's like normal to me now. You are crazy! But I love the way you talk.

I'm jealous.

I wanted so bad to offer a rebuttal but knew I couldn't do it without letting my emotions get in the way, which is exactly what they wanted. Good response @JAG1! Very well said and with a cool head. You didn't let your goose get cooked, or your chicken either .

2230 miles bad injectors. I guess stranger things have happened. It is if it's leaking. May not be the rough idle problem but should be fixed before it causes another

The one on the back of the head. It has 2 rubberized banjo bolt washers that can be bought from Geno's Garage among other places. It is not terribly hard to replace them. Gotta lay down on the valve cover and act like you're hugging the engine. A mirror would help you to see, but you can feel your way around. Takes a 17mm wrench IIRC. and only like 17 ft lbs. Don't over tighten. I would do like said above though and check/ replace the APPS, the one on the engine . Get a Timbo if you do. A lot less money and more reliable. We sell them in the forum store but I see we are stocked out at the moment.

I didn't take any. Guess I could snap a few through the chain case cover.

I always thought the 2nd gen had an APPS I always thought the 2nd gen had an APPS?

Ok, back together. I went with the advise on some internet forums and got a length of industrial chain w/ connector link instead of the CASE endless chain. Was about 40% of the cost and I was able to use 2 close hangers to pull it through. Only had to remove the one wheel spindle which needed bearings anyway, and the motor bearing cap. Messy oily job but not too bad now that I've done one.

Just when I had a big weekend planned for the skiddy I broke a left rear drive chain. There goes those plans up in smoke. Anybody ever replaced one and care to share any shortcuts/ tricks/ tips? Looks like a real PITA.

Not a diesel chainsaw but it does take 2SO just like the truck. My wide angle lens was not wide enough. The back end of the truck is it's best side anyhow. All al-u-minium. No rust

Cleaned the injectors today.

My .02. I agree with Hag that the prices are not that far out of line assuming they are using decent parts. For me I would do it in steps, or get it done in steps, unless he has the money to spend and just wants to get it over with. Front end first. It makes sense to do unit bearings and seals with the ball joints since they all have to more or less come apart to get to the other one. I see it's a 98.5. He has inboard front rotors then. Might as well change them to as they live behind the unit bearings and don't slip on like newer models. Then the steering parts can be done later unless they are totally shot. Bluetop seems to be the preferred steering box around here. As far as the oil leaks, my truck leaks from the front crank, rear main, and oil pan. I'm in no rush to dig into that. At this point it's just a nice rust preventive coating and nothing major. But then I don't drive a lot either. A 200mi. trip is a lot anymore. Check out @dripley make shift garage he built when he did his head gasket. Might be a way for him to do a little weekend work by himself. Your hardly a newbie. Anybody who's been on these forums for a while knows you have been too. Thanks your son for his service for me . Here it is https://mopar1973man.com/topic/15885-daves-100-garage/

Here's a picture to go with that.

Looks like a black snake after a chicken dinner.

Would make sense. You always want to 'ring' a grinding wheel before putting it on to make sure it's not cracked.

Well said. Your McDonalds reference made me laugh .

I've been fighting an intermittent no bus/ no gauges issue for a while now. I narrowed it down to the cluster because sometimes a hard bump would cause them to go away and a soft bump with my hand would bring them back. While waiting for the ATF to stop dripping so I could change the cooler return line I finally pulled the cluster. The slides that hold the plugs in the dash appeared to have relaxed over time allowing a considerable amount of play. After a Yankneck Ed dielectric grease treatment I put some toothpick shims behind the plugs to tighten them up much like a builder would shim a window. I'm not implying that @JAG1 would ever use a shim but some guys do . Put it back together and all has been well for a little while now.

I was joking about the diaphram, but I had an aging VP that would not start unless power was cut to it when cranking. If it works for you keep doing it if it makes you feel better.

Your'e gonna blow your diaphram

Bubble flare or ball flare. I think a lot of Jap cars use that style. Never owned one and never will but I've heard that.

Just wanted to clarify so that somebody doesn't get the idea they can go to the hardware store and buy an $8 plumbing flare tool and use it on their vehicle. Could be a disaster.

If you go this route remember brake lines need a double flare and tool to make a double flare. Simple single flares won't hold up to the pressures in a hydraulic brake system and aren't legal for road use.

That's interesting. I looked on RA for lines and all I found was the rubber hoses. I probably missed it. My trans cooler line that I ordered Sat. showed up this afternoon. Wasn't supposed to be til Thursday. I like RA.

FWIW, I got a set on E-Bay from either SSTubes or Fine Lines. Stainless set that went in very well. You could also try Rock Auto.