Bullet

Loosen the locknut so that the adjustment screw can be turned. Tighten adjustment screw to the specified in/lb. Then back off the adjustment screw the specified amount of turns. Then hold the adjustment screw at that position while snugging the locknut. Then tighten the locknut to specified torque.

Answers above. I use 3/8" big line kit with both a snubber and a needle valve and 1/8" air brake line. My needle valve is open about 1/8 a turn or less from full close. I can still see an ever so slight water hammer movement but not any kind of an issue.

I have been researching the TV cable adjustment too and haven't really found anything crystal clear. I adjusted mine when I rebuilt and didn't really have a clue what I was doing but it seems to be good. It would be nice to have a good tutorial though.

Thanks again for taking the time to explain more...much clearer to me now. You broke it down well so it's easy to understand what you are saying. It's basically a more complex platform meant for more complex tuning by more complex users...I can dig that. And it seems that the work you have done has made it attainable for more people who might not have otherwise had trouble understanding it...my respects for that. While I have enjoyed the ease of the "hands off" box tuning I can see how I would also like the personal adjustability of the Quad as well. Thanks again...good talk!

Lol...noted! Thanks for your honest take on it DF. I can understand how some things are more idiotproof and others require a more technical user.

I have the Goerend pan and it's a very nice piece but that's a lot of money for it shipped.

Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I understand much better now. I didn't know this forum was Quad central...so to speak. I also didn't know how much time and effort you have put into the Quad...so I understand how saying anything negative about it can feel insulting. I see that when I read all the Smarty bashing. What would you attribute most of the user issues to...is it more of a user problem than a Quad problem? It seems like a pretty complex platform that everyone might not be able to grasp? I'm not against buying one if it is that good...but my current setup has been "issue free" and crazy powerful. My Viper is the only car I've been in that seems like it might hang. I haven't used a Quad before or raced one so all I have to go on is what I read and how I know my truck runs. I'll do some more reading with a more open mind and try to understand more about it. Thanks again for your explanation. And lastly...how exactly do you convert a "metric F-TON" over to America standard?

The many problem threads of the Quad are posted...they speak for themselves. Lol...see what I did there? You didn't address that...why I wonder? I agree that the Quad is the best tuning platform not accounting for its troubled user experiences. I just wondered why some of the same people don't hesitate to crack on the Smarty while always failing to mention the many user issues that have been had with the Quad...that's all. It just seems kinda fanboyish to me. If I ever want user issues I'll just get married or buy another BMW...although the Quad would be a much cheaper alternative.

The Smarty just doesn't get any love here...not just this thread but several others. I can honestly say that I see more Quad issues on here than I see 'Smarty is your problem'...and I see a lot of those. I just don't get it. The Quad reminds me of a BMW I had once. It looked good, drove good but never could get everything working right and very time consuming to operate. I can understand why the Quad might have niche fans...just like BMW does. I just see so many "the Smarty is your problem, you should get a Quad" type posts on here...almost like we're trying to sell them. I don't have a Quad only because I have seen too many threads about issues with them...and I don't like problems. I do have a Smarty and have had zero issues with smoke or reliability...and my speedometer is correct too. It actually doesn't suck but I wouldn't get that impression from here if I didn't have one. Also I'm quite certain a Quad truck would have trouble keeping up with me. Anyways just an observation I've noticed after being on here for a while now.

Lol...I've been in debates about important stuff like turbos, torque converters, injectors, electronics, suspension parts and fuel pumps...and I'm pretty particular about that stuff. But never have argued over a thermostat. It's a freakin thermostat...it either works or it doesn't. I've had some that have stuck before after many years of use. I don't even think twice about it...I just go buy another one and slap it in. My last one is from Napa because I know and like the people that work there...no other reason. If by chance I would have purchased it from a different company instead...no sleep would have been lost since.

Napa 200 degree...no issues ever.

I use a Goerend pan too w/paper gasket and no sealants. I torqued to 15 ft/lbs...cuz I thought that was the spec. I've never heard of DEX III if you have a triple. I'm still using ATF+4 on my Goerend triple and valvebody. What are the benefits of DEX III and black over ATF+4...other than it being cheaper?

I just thought it was pretty cool that in 2019 they are making a performance video about tuning a 17-22 year old truck with the "worst" injection pump. The VP44 just doesn't get the love that the p7100 and cp3 gets...so it was good to see the love. Personally I absolutely love the VP! They are so versatile...anything from a excellent mpg tow machine to a street beast. They are cheap (trucks and pumps), reliable (no, I'm not drinking), powerful and highly adjustable. I have been contemplating for the longest time on whether to buy a 2007 5.9...but every time I get serious about it I end up deciding against it and liking my truck even more. Love is crazy!

You're thinking with the wrong head...but at least one of you is thinking!

Lol...he specifically says no redheads.

Hahaha...I can't say I'd disagree! I can't believe crazy starts at 4. Where are those girls at? I personally have never met one below a 6 crazy and like you I have met plenty of 11+'s...

Good drawing! It reminds me of the crazy/hot matrix. A must see for us dudes...

I think the electrical gauges are much more expensive. I prefer mechanical over electric any time I can. My mechanical fp gauge, snubber and valve cost about $60-65...with free shipping.

Been awhile since I've been in mine but I believe the low/reverse is in the pan and intermediate is outside the pan.

Yeah that's pretty crappy. I think most of overseas shipping is just about gouging people.

Just wanted to say welcome to the board. If you recognized the hunting problem right after the band adjustment and filter/fluid change I would guess that had something to do with it. It's possible that you didn't adjust it properly or the new clean fluid washed the crud off your friction material and left it without as much grab. Pressures are higher when you get into it so that might be why you are not experiencing any problems at full go. These are all just guesses of course. The most likely time to experience the hunting issue due to AC interference is in OD. So if you are no longer experiencing it there I wouldn't think it is your problem in the lower gears. There's a way to check your alternator on the truck for AC interference that can be found through search on here.

I ran across this video recently about VP44 mods and towing/performance. Includes a few products we talk about on here. https://youtu.be/c_Og3OpxJ-M

Yes that's a little tougher. Your inner dual and the front might still line up the same. You would just have to pass the string across a little lower since the hub sticks out in the center. Or flip your fronts around backwards and you can use the outer duals. Definitely more of a pain either way.

Sure...place your front on jackstands with the tires close to ground. Turn your steering wheel as straight as you can get it. Tie a string to a leaf spring u-bolt or thereabouts. Stretch the string around the back of the rear tire across the middle and extend it all the way around the front of the front tire across the middle. Closely observe where each side of both tires and the string intersect. Specifically the space, or lack thereof, between the string and the tire. Now go to the other side of the truck and do the same. In theory the space should all be exactly the same front to back on both sides of the tires and on both sides of the truck...which would put them all perfectly in line with each other...or "aligned". If they are not the same then you are out of alignment and you need to make steering wheel, steering rack and/or track bar adjustments until they all match. Very similar to what an alignment machine does except they use a laser instead of a string...which is a tad more precise.

No problem...they do also offer stocker over s475 kits as well that are cheaper since you already have the smaller turbo...like your situation. I want to say around $2700-2900. The only wastegate is a diaphragm style on the 362 that tubes into the s475. So the wastegate reads the s475 pressure and gradually decreases flow to the 362 as the 475 spools up. The 475 is not wastgated. Do a web search on DPS twins or compounds and you'll see others experiences as well. PM me your email address and I'll send you pics of my setup.